The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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A Bergdorf Goodman Exclusive from Roja Parfums: Goodman’s

Goodman's ParfumSince 1901, Bergdorf Goodman has been providing the utmost in quality, service and luxury to New York City on the corner of 5th Avenue and 58th Street.  To celebrate this New York landmark, Master Perfumer Roja Dove was asked to create a perfume exclusively for Goodman’s the Bergdorf Goodman men’s store.  Creating a perfume for such a legendary institution is no small feat.   To meet the challenge, Roja Dove wanted to create a perfume, that in his words, captures the “special mix of sophistication, excitement and pure luxury” of this exclusive and iconic store.

BergdorfGoodman

Bergdorf Goodman – New York, NY

WHAT I SMELL:  Goodman’s opens with a rich and deep bergamot and cedar, quickly followed by a spiced mandarin.  The cedar retreats quickly to make room for this incredible jasmine.  It’s warm and lush and it feels like you’re walking (or should I say sinking in) on deep piled carpet.  The florals are heady while still maintaining a masculine edge of rounded and achingly beautiful thickness.  I love my florals and this bouquet meets all my standards of what a good floral mix should be comprised of;  rounded, voluminous, mixed and blended to perfection so that you can’t see distinguish one floral note from another.  There’s also a rather buttery tone that the florals rest on which after around 10 minutes lightens and retreats as do the heady aspects of the florals.   This makes way for a more woody timbre with the vetiver taking center stage in concert with an herbal and slightly peppery finish.  Soon enough, as if a fog has started to creep in, the frankincense starts to appear very lightly from below.  What started off as full on traditional floral is now taking a more exotic turn as the frankincense then becomes front and center.  The woody and dry patchouli mixed with the incense renders the fragrance to an almost powdery consistency.  I am amazed by the fragrance’s transformation; it feels as if you are making the descent from a temperate and fertile elevation down to a more dramatically arid zone in the space of 30 minutes. Goodman’s then takes on a more sober and formal turn as the fragrance settles into quiet dignity with a warmish patchouli and vetiver with streams of incense weaving throughout.  That, combined with just an ever so slight sweetness and a bite of civet, lets you know that although the perfume is dignified, there’s still a bit of mischief that abounds.

From the Bergdorf Goodman website:

A dynamic burst of Mandarin and Bergamot creates a fresh foil for a rich bouquet of Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Neroli, and May Flower, enlivened with Cinnamon Leaves, Cinnamon, Cardamom, and Coriander, warmed by Cedarwood, Patchouli, and Vetiver, nestling on a refined, sensual base of Frankincense, Castoreum, and Civet.

Top Notes:  Bergamot, Mandarin

Heart Notes:  Neroli, Rose, Jasmine, Jasmine Sambac, Ylang Ylang, May Flower

Base Notes:  Cinnamon Leaves, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Coriander, Cedarwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Castoreum, Civet

Carriage Ride2

A Royal Ride

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An 18th century French royal carriage ride; leaving the majesty of Versailles to journey to the historically holy Avignon. 

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GOODMAN’S:  dignified, calm, self-assured

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GOODMAN’S:  I haven’t found any other reviews thus far.

BOTTOM LINE:  If you look solely at the notes, the fragrance could read like many others as individual parts.  However, like Bergdorf Goodman, Roja Dove has used the finest of materials to create this incredibly luxurious compliment to this grand institution of enduring style, refinement and quality.  I have to admit that the floral aspects of the opening and of the heart blew me away and I wish the fragrance would have stayed there forever.  Mr. Dove if you’re listening, maybe this could be the inspiration for a new exclusive Scented Hound perfume??!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $545 for 50ml parfum, exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman via the website or by directly calling Roja Parfums Bergdorf Goodman Representative, Tom Crutchfield at 212-872-2768.

Sample courtesy of Tom Crutchfield, Roja Parfums.


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Lilac Extrait by Roja Parfums

RojaLilacExtraitWHAT I SMELL:  Lilac Extrait has a warm and enveloping opening with a quick dash of bergamot followed by this lovely peachy tinged floral which proves to be rather demure.  It’s hard to single out any one note as they all float ethereally in this radiant haze above the skin.  After around 15 minutes the soft and lovely lilac builds into this green and powdery bouquet of pure heaven.  After the 30 minute mark, Lilac Extrait really begins to project, although it’s not a shouter, and what  you’re left with is this cozy warm blanket of lilac comfort.

The Roja Parfumes website describes Lilac Extrait as “heady sweet freshness”

Lilac Extrait Notes:

TOP:  Bergamot
HEART:  Heliotrope, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Peach, Rose, Violet, Ylang Ylang
BASE:  Amyris, Benzoin, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Clove, Ginger, Oakmoss, Orris, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Sandalwood, Vanilla

happylamb

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Like a happy lamb…soft and sweet.  How can you resist such a love?

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE LILAC EXTRAIT:  comfortable, enveloping, intimate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LILAC EXTRAIT:  CaFleureBon, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE:  Lilac Extrait is a beautiful fragrance that is well blended and really carries lilac into comforting territory.  Is it complex and daring?  No.  But sometimes beauty is best in its simplicity.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $395 for 50ml for Parfum Extrait

Sample courtesy of Osswald Parfumerie.


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Enslaved Parfum by Roja Parfums

enslavedPlease pardon me while I gush…

WHAT I SMELL:   Deep and sweet, not sugary sweet, but sweet wrapped up in warm honey that seems to bellow up from darkened chasm.  It’s intoxicating and hypnotic.  The top notes are listed as citrus, but I’m not getting that so much as the lavender seems to absorb the sharper edges of what we typically experience with lemon and lime.  Quickly the prominent jasmine takes the stage where it seduces you along with the ylang-ylang in a pool of heavy and heavenly juice.  There’s so much depth to Enslaved that it literally creates this floral force field around you.  Then add the rich and glowing labdanum and ambergris, Enslaved pulls out even deeper floral force field.  Eventually the oak moss begins to dry out the juiciness, but it never leaves you out in the desert.  Of course, everything is blended so seamlessly that picking apart the notes really is rather silly as in this case, it doesn’t really matter as I am completely intoxicated with its beauty.

From the Roja Parfums website:

“With Enslaved I loved the idea of falling in love so deeply and passionately there was no escape.  In an old family dictionary, one definition of Ensalved was described as, to become a prisoner of love.  I wanted to create a scent that enslaved both its wearer and those who smelt it on them:  a scent with no escape where you become the wearers prisoner of love”  – Roja Dove

Notes:  bergamot, lemon, lime, lavender, carnation, geranium, Jasmine de Grasse, orange blossom, rose, ylang-ylang, cedarwood, oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, labdanum, musk, vanilla 

hypnosisWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Floral hypnosis.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ENSLAVED:  seductive, addictive, breathtaking

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENSLAVED: I only found comments on Fragrantica.

BOTTOM LINE: I was lucky enough to be introduced to Enslaved at Sniffapalooza and then a wonderful perfumista sent me a sample which I am guarding like a grand jewel.  I am addicted to this perfume and can only hope that even with the hefty price tag that Santa or the Perfume Fairy will make this mine as we were meant to be together!

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  $435 for 50ml Parfum; also available in EdP