unisex | The Scented Hound

July 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Ex Nihilo Sweet Morphine

WHAT I SMELL: Sweet Morphine makes good on its promise as being addictive as it opens sweet, soft, gentle and powdery with a feeling of spun cotton candy without the confectionaried sugar. Lilac is listed as the top note, but I rarely get lilac out of the perfume, but instead a powdered and pretty iris surrounded by fringes of succulent green. After a few minutes, the light opening (which almost begs for you to apply more on because you believe it’s going to disappear) makes way for a vanilla laced iris and mimosa floral that moves from demure and softly spun to a much rounder and slightly thickened and slightly creamy candied state. The perfume then assumes a woody based, but resting on top of the wood remains the sweet and lightly peachy and powdered floral that makes this the addictive morphine it’s named after.

From the Ex Nihilo website:

SWEET MORPHINE, the embodiment of a self assumed but ambivalent femininity, at once delicate yet lascivious.

It’s floral bloom melts on the skin with a dark and addictive woody vanilla background.

A subtle bouquet tenderly perverted by a very captivating carnal lightness.

Notes:

Top – Lilac

Heart – Iris

Base – Wood Accord, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A sexy (not slutty) nurse. I’m ready for my shot of sweet morphine!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SWEET MORPHINE: current, uncomplicated, accessible

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SWEET MORPHINE: Colognoisseur, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sweet Morphine has a very modern sensibility and is incredibly delicious for a non-gourmand fragrance. Every time I wear this perfume it morphs just a little different each time; sometimes it’s a bit sweeter, sometimes it’s more demure, but it is always just the right amount of sexy.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $225 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 19, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Hiram Green Dilettante

WHAT I SMELL: My first impression of Dilettante begins with a light earthy soil note mixed with a minty soapiness resting on top. Quickly, the earthy moves towards a green tinted orange blossom that at first is rather linear and flattened, but as it progresses becomes puffed liked a cloud with just the lightest of sweetness. The perfume at this point has a very carefree bounce about it. Dilettante is seemingly happy, at the same time it feels like its holding a secret and it’s not going to let you know why it’s in such a good mood, but there’s a reason for it…it’s just not telling! Soon a bit of mentholated tuberose comes to join the orange, but there’s only just a little to add just the right amount of texture and spice. The perfume then begins to deepen and expand. What was so much sun and fun now becomes contemplative. Here the perfume rests its feet under the late afternoon sun with a warm embrace of orange blossom met with an ambered hue and a buttery honeyed finish.

From the Hiram Green website:

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine…

Frances Hodgson Burnett

Inspired by such simple pleasures as a stroll through a luscious garden after a rain shower, Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Dilettante, is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer.

Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange, Dilettante is an all-natural fruity and floral eau de parfum that is fresh and sweet throughout.

Still Life with Orange Chair – Anne Redpath

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Orange Blossom comfort.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DILETTANTE: relaxing, reassuring, at-peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DILETTANTE: Kafkaesque, CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram Green does it again. The fact that he doesn’t rush the creation process with numerous and frequent releases is apparent as his perfumes are consistently well blended and full of depth. Dilettante is the perfect antidote for those hot, hazy quiet days of summer.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 5, 2016
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

New Release: L’Atessa by Masque Milano

WHAT I SMELL: L’Attesa opens with a flattened bergamot with a slightly soured neroli that feels waxy, slightly yeasty and thickened like a styrofoam cushion. After a short time, a faint iris begins to appear, floating in a thin layer under the rest of the perfume. Soon the iris begins to grow and expand as it takes center stage. This is a warmed iris and a rather creamy one at that. The iris is soon met with a melding of other florals and the perfume starts to feel as if it’s a warmed scarf wrapped around the neck. The perfume radiates, but it’s very subdued and incredibly comforting. After around 10 minutes, a peppered suede wraps itself over the florals. It’s smooth and sensual and as it continues to develop the creaminess moves to a powder and the perfume pulls out all moisture. At this time, there’s a lightly sweetened powdered lipstick edge to the perfume which I really like. Eventually, the perfume settles in this powdered projection over a smooth and hazy slightly soured sandalwood.

From the Masque Milano website:

Act III Scene One

All is set for the rendezvous.

The soft lights seem to fondle the wrinkled sound of the old vinyl disc, and play hide-and-seek in the warm embrace of the jazz singer’s voice. The wide french-window is opened on the terrace. Outside, only the cicadas shrill drowning and the warm summer breeze. On the tea-table, a nosegay of freshly plucked flowers, flooding the room with a cocktail of smells and a bright colour palette. You uncork a champagne bottle and fill the two flutes. The unmistakable flavour of yeast hovers in the air. You settle into the couch, to enjoy this moment, and take a good look around – every single detail is simply perfect. You then close your eyes, breathe deeply, listen to the sound of her steps on the stairs. Can’t help smiling. You wish these moments would never end. There comes a knock on the door.

Head notes: Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne accord

Heart notes: Italian Iris abs., Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose abs., Ylang Ylang Madagascar

Base notes: Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather accord

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful, graceful and majestic Lippizan Stallion.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’ATTESA: dramatic, unique, passionate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’ATTESA: Kafkaesque, Megan in Sainte Maxime, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: L’Attesa unfolds in he most beautiful manner. It’s exquisite in its blending of the warmed iris and florals. My one wish is that it would have remained in the middle state of the creamy florals for the remainder of the perfume. However, that doesn’t distract from the perfume which is wonderfully different and unique. Also, kudos to Masque Milano for their new bottles which easily match the perfume in terms of beauty.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Luca Maffei
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 35 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Masque Milano. Opinion my own.