review | The Scented Hound

July 11, 2022
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

Vintage Narcisse Blanc by Caron

WHAT I SMELL: Narcisse Blanc opens with a peppery warm and indolic orange blossom and neroli. It’s thick, waxy and completely intoxicating. Quickly, a petitgrain note emerges to bring the floating blossoms towards the earth with a greenish touch of grass. There’s nothing easy or breezy about this perfume. Instead, it’s beauty is in the realm of the mature. Big and round as more florals come in punctuated with the rose, Narcisse Blanc is less mysterious than it’s counterpart, Narcisse Noir, but to me, much more accessible. However, that’s not to say that it doesn’t hold it’s wearer in some contempt, as there is a bit of haughtiness and aloofness about it without it being cold in nature. As the perfume continues to expand and radiate, the warmth of the base begins to move towards the still waxy blossoms. Vetiver adds just a bit of a brownish grass and a sandalwood brings a little bit of sour. Narcisse Blanc never got the love that Narcisse Noir did. Too bad, because it’s every bit as beautiful.

Top notes are Orange Blossom, Neroli, Orange and Petitgrain; middle notes are Jasmine, tincture of rose and Lime; base notes are iris, Musk, Sandalwood, vetyver and Amber.

The Dowager Queen Lovisa Ulrika of Sweden.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A dowager. A lady of means who is completely in charge.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NARCISSE BLANC: bold, in-control, substantial

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NARCISSE BLANC: Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: Narcisse Blanc is beautiful, no question about it. But it’s not young, nor carefree, but instead is grand floral that means serious business. Caron, which for some reason seems to be largely hidden (at least in the US), has a new reissue of Narcisse Blanc, but I have no idea how it compares to this vintage beauty. I do have the feeling however that it has been reformulated to be a bit lighter and brighter. But as for this vintage version that came from those long gone fabulous urns in the now closed NYC boutique; it’s a grand old perfume that isn’t meant for every day wear, but seems to be made for those special occasions when you want to feel rather royal.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Ernest Daltroff
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: Review based on the vintage parfum extrait version. You can find the latest version of Narcisse Blanc at the Caron website.

June 27, 2022
by The Scented Hound Leave a comment

Amouage Meander

WHAT I SMELL: Meander opens with a warm and lightly sweet and inviting olibanum that is quickly met with an amazingly beautiful carrot note. It’s not carrot from the earth, but one that’s fresh and dewy and lightly nutty and surprisingly gourmand. Soon the carrot is met with the softest of rose along with a buttery orris. Together they provide a aura sheen that’s smooth as silk. As Meander continues on its’ path, the perfume begins to grow and radiate. It’s thick and rich and incredibly elegant and warm…and it’s at this point the orris feels as if it has been ladled over the luxurious Rose and Jonquille absolute. After some time, an incense begins to hover above the orris infused florals. It’s very light but adds just a hint of mystery to the already beautifully warmed heart. This perfume is beyond gorgeous, it’s dreamy and quite voluminous, but so incredibly comforting while being quite grand.

Notes from the Amouage website:

A synergy of fresh Pink Pepper and vivifying Black Pepper, together with a dense, fruity and chalklike Carrot Heart bring alive the all-encompassing fogs of monsoon season.

Serene and steady, they drape over a lush landscape of emerald Jonquille Absolute and lavish Rose Absolute, before climbing over pale cliffs of earthy Orris and dark, humid groves of Cypriol.

Surreal march of white Sandalwood mists, they creep overhill and underhill until at last they meet the unending desert, still hot with the scent of dry Vetiver and balsamic Frankincense Resinoid – the unbreakable barrier.

Intricate blend of woods and flowy spices, Meander captures the exhilarating feeling of happiness when the south of Oman turns into a land of haze and running streams.

- Top Notes: Olibanum Oil, Carrot Heart, Pink Pepper CO² & Black Pepper Oil.
- Heart Notes: Orris, Rose Absolute, Cypriol Heart & Jonquille Absolute.
- Base Notes: Olibanum Resinoid, Vetiver Oil, & Sandalwood Oil.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A languid nap on a warm afternoon.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MEANDER creamy, soothing, encompassing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MEANDER: Carpe Odor, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Meander is so warm and beautiful; it almost has a heartbreaking feel about it as it’s filled with great emotion. At the same time it also has as dreamlike quality about it that makes you want to drift off in an embrace within its comforting arms.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Amber Fougere
Nose: Mackenzie Reilly
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $265 for 50 ml eau de parfum

June 13, 2022
by The Scented Hound 2 Comments

Jovoy Paris Touche Finale

WHAT I SMELL: Touche Finale opens with sweet, bubblegum berries that are tamed with a gorgeous mimosa. It’s rather thick and heady and wonderfully intoxicatingly sweet without being overbearing. From first spritz, Touche Finale is feminine, lively and instantly fun as if it comes sweeping though the door letting everyone know that the party is about to begin. After a short time, the florals come to take their place with the rose and violet leaf front and center. Here, the bubblegum opening starts to dissipate but the feminine touch doesn’t seem to be bothered by its departure because the perfume moves to the more powdered. Heliotrope soon begs to be let in the party and prompts the perfume to grow and radiate. In the end, Touche Finale matures from it’s celebratory opening, but it remains florally beautiful as the powder is met with a finish of warmed peppered musk that keeps the festivities going for a very long time.

From the Jovoy Paris website:

Whenever it appears that an artist’s work is finally finished, there is always a moment where a sense of doubt overwhelms the artist. Should they change a note? Do they need any more of this? Or a little less of that?

But when the artist trusts their vision and makes their final stroke, any sense of doubt is replaced by an ultimate satisfaction. Then the only desire that follows is the will to reveal it to the world. This is the exact moment when a master decides that their work is finished. And this is the very moment that Jovoy has grasped and put into a bottle.

This new perfume is also a tribute to the seductive souls who each have their own rituals of preparation. The slow, measured method of dressing. The make up, the rice powder… these are all a prelude to seduction. And even if their gestures are different and their secrets proper, they all share a common ritual: their ‘final touch’ is the application of perfume.

Touche Finale is a reinterpretation of a perfume that has already left it’s mark in the history of the rebirth of Jovoy: 2006’s renowned Poudré.

After more than two years of work, the independent perfumer, Vanina Muracciole has managed to preserve the soul of the original Poudré, whilst exalting it, in this new, ultimate version.

Head Notes – Mimosa, Pink Berries; Heart Notes – Rose, Violet Leaf, Cedarwood, Jasmine; Base Notes – Heliotrope, Musk, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Party girl!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE TOUCHE FINALE: vivacious, captivating, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TOUCHE FINALE: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Touch Finale is all things feminine; powder, notes of lipstick with a light sweater of musk. It’s a joyful perfume that brings life to the wearer. Just be careful though because just like too much partying, Touche Finale requires a lighter touch. Too much of a good thing can be…well, you know the rest.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Powdery Floral
Nose: Vanina Muracciole
Classification: Feminine
Expense: 145 Euros for 100 ml eau de parfum