review | The Scented Hound

July 20, 2013
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Paradis Perdu by Frapin

WHAT I SMELL: Paradis Perdu opens with citrus and bergamot that’s not bright, but instead is sour and slightly biting. The galbanum quickly then becomes evident; its mossy green and very direct and the fragrance remains sharp and biting. After a bit, the green becomes more hay like and Paradis Perdue becomes a bit dryer and more woody; it’s sheer and light and completely meh. This is basically where the development of the fragrance ends.

From the Frapin website:

Created with the vitality of Art nouveau, Paradis Perdu is an ode to the vineyards around the property. The perfumer, Amélie Bourgeois, drew her inspiration from the expanses of land, conjuring effervescence with curved lines, somewhere between gushing and encircling.

Paradis Perdu Notes (from Fragrantica):

Top notes are Bergamot, Grapefruit, Citron, Yellow Mandarin, Leaf Blend (Basil, Spinach, Vine, Ravensara), Galbanum, Elemi, Paradisamide, Vetiver, Hay, Virginia Cedarwood, Rosewood, Labdanum, Precious Woods, Mosses, Musks

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A yawn.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PARADIS PERDU: boring, sour, dull

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARADIS PERDU: I couldn’t find any other reviews for this 2013 launch.

BOTTOM LINE: Being underwhelmed may be an understatement.

Bone Rating: 2 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Nose: Amélie Bourgeois
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $145 for 100ml EdP

July 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

Ambra e Iris by Dr. Vranjes

WHAT I SMELL: Hay and patchouli…its earthy and quickly comes off a bit hippieish with the patchouli which is front and center. Funny, I’m not getting any amber and I’m not getting any Iris, just patchouli! Continuing on, the patchouli becomes even more earthy and bears an almost mushroom like quality, like that of the dirt that is still on a pack of mushrooms in the grocery store. I would venture to say this works better in the winter. I’m afraid to go out in the 95 degree humidity and sun today with this on because I believe the patchouli would explode. Inside in the air conditioning it is kept in line. After about 45 minutes, the amber starts to creep in a bit. This is not a warm golden amber, but instead a more pensive and subdued warmth that may be dried out by the inclusion of a bit of myrrh. It’s only until after a couple of hours that the iris starts to reveal itself in a very light and incandescent way. Ambra e Iris ends up soft, light and pretty. I just wish that it didn’t take so long to get there.

Ambra e Iris Notes:

Top notes: Patchouli
Heart: Grey Amber
Base notes: Florentine Iris and Myrrh

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: My church basement circa 1975…a mixture of oil, polyester, guitars and felt banners.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRA e IRIS: earthy, grounded, patch-bombish

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRA e IRIS: Il Mondo di Odore, (I couldn’t find any other reviews!)

BOTTOM LINE: I like where Ambra e Iris ends up but the journey there is a long one. The first few hours for me were just a bit too earthy for my liking. Actually, this shouldn’t be named Ambra e Iris, it should be named Ambra e Patchouli!

Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $80 for 50ml Extrait

July 14, 2013
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

M/Mink by Byredo

WHAT I SMELL: Cedar chips and cat pee; that’s M/Mink’s opening to me. It’s incredibly urinous and surprisingly I’m not offended. There is a bit of honey that tops off the cat pee…maybe that’s what keeps it from being completely repulsive. After a good 20 minutes or so, M/Mink begins to mellow and the patchouli brings a bit of sweetness in. There’s also a tinge of incense that is ever so light that it seems to fade in and out. Beyond that, M/Mink doesn’t develop all that much. I don’t love it and I don’t hate it…this is one of those fragrances that you really have to be in the mood to wear.

M/Mink Notes:

Top: Adoxal
Heart: Incense
Base: Patchouli Leaf, Clover Honey, Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cat’s litter box that has been sprinkled with litter box freshener.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE M/MINK: urinous, curious, modern

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT M/MINK: Smellythoughts, The Scent Train, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE: M/Mink is dichotomous in that in sniffing it part of it feels warm and cozy while at the same time there is something very remote about it. M/Mink is also what I call a fighting scent. That means that I would wear something like this when I don’t want to be messed with cause I’m just not in the mood!

Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody?
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $220 for 100ml EdP