The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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The Hound’s Guest Post on CaFleureBon: Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille & Picnic at Hanging Rock Draw

anne-louise-lambert-from-picnic-at-hanging-rock

One of my favorite fragrance industry experts, Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief at CaFleureBon, recently asked me to contribute to one of my favorite fragrance sites with a guest post.  I was and am thrilled beyond belief that she would have this humble hound as a contributor.  In any case, my first (and hopefully, not last) post for CaFleureBon provides a review of Sonoma Scent Studio’s Jour Ensolielle.  After being introduced to Sonoma Scent Studio with the wonderful new release Yin & Ylang, this second foray into Laurie’s work was another thrill as I have to say it even topped my love of Yin & Ylang, and that’s not an easy feat.  Please check the full review at Fragrance Review:  Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille & Picnic at Hanging Rock Draw.

Oh, and for my regular readers, what it doesn’t state in the articles is how many bones I give Jour Ensoleille.  So as not to disappoint; I have to say that I give it 4.5 bones!


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Bandit by Robert Piguet

banditWHAT I SMELL:  Bandit opens up with rush of galbanum; it’s green and almost sparkling in its intensity, but at the same time rather animalic and dirty which seems like a contradiction.  But soon, Bandit starts to elicit its floral side with a some gorgeous ylang ylang and jasmine sitting on what seems to be a layer of cigarette smoke that is layered on top of the green notes.  After around the five-minute mark a light spice combines with the floral and hints of leather start to peak through.  Soon enough the oakmoss starts to make itself known as the dryness sits at the base while the other notes morph above it.  However, after some more development the oakmoss reveals an extra sharpness that when smelled it wants to collapse the inside of your nostrils, but that sharpness soon moves to a more dusty and powdery essence; all awhile still sitting on top are the lightly leathered florals that are rather pretty in more of a masculine way.  In the end you’re left with a dusty and dreamy lightly leathered floral.

I find that Bandit seems to transform itself at different times when I wear it.  Sometimes it’s more floral and pretty, other times it morphs quickly into the dryer chypre and light leather. Either way I like it because it’s unique and different and I believe, pretty unmistakable as a perfume.

From the Robert Piguet website:

Provocative and sultry, this chypre fragrance is an intense blend of exotic leather, wood, spice and floral notes including neroli, orange, ylang ylang, jasmine, tuberose, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli and musk.

pussycat banditWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Bandit’s not quite the tough and wild gal that I had heard about and was expecting.  Instead, I think she’s much more of a “Pussycat Bandit!”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BANDIT: dry, semi-tough, dusty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BANDIT:  Olfactoria’s Travels, Perfume Shrine, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE:  My review is based on the Parfum Extrait version and on my box is a sticker that states:

“Certification

This is the original formula for Bandit created by this company with Robert Piguet for the introduction of the perfume in 1944

Errol G.W.Stafford, President, Givaudan Fragrances Corporation”

So I guess this version is about as good as you can ever get to the real thing.  But I have to admit that if I want a real dirty girl, I’ll stick with my Gres Cabochard.  However, don’t get me wrong, I love this pussycat of a rebel.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose: Germaine Cellier
  • Classification: Feminine, but can easily be worn by a man
  • Expense: Varies depending on the concentration.  Review based on the parfum extrait.


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Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire

Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire

WHAT I SMELL: Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire opens with citrus and mint that’s clean and cool.  The fragrance then moves quickly towards a slightly honeyed woody cedar.  Additionally, there seems to be an almost hidden chocolate accord buried in the mix, like a semi-sweet bakers chocolate.   After around five minutes the fragrance begins to sweeten and sparkle.  After another five minutes the cedar really takes over, but it’s highlighted with a layered of sprinkled brown sugar and tobacco that makes the fragrance pop.  Add some patchouli in and in the end you’re left with a lightly woody patchoulied fragrance with hints of chocolate.

From the Cartier website:

Wearing Pasha de Cartier means sporting a fragrance that has a cool elegance and the power of seduction. Cartier has created a new edition of the legendary Pasha de Cartier fragrance. The subtlety of this fragrance comes from the hint of green and fresh citrus, which perfectly balances the woody amber and cedarwood notes.

cedarblockWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Like this cedar stencil on a  pantone card.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE:  woody, OK, semi-sweet

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE:  I couldn’t find any.

BOTTOM LINE:  An OK Pasha de Cartier flanker, but nothing that sets the world on fire.  But sometimes you don’t want to set the world on fire.  Funny though, with “noire” in the name, I was expecting something darker or more elegant for evening wear.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $105 for 100ml EdT