The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Puredistance Papilio

WHAT I SMELL:  Papilio opens with a soft and serene warmed magnolia that immediately hugs the skin.  It’s enchanting, rather demure and very inviting.  The soft florals blend with just a hint of the vegetal which brings the earth towards the ethereal bouquet.  Blended so incredibly, the perfume at this point is less the sum of notes and is more of an expression of peacefulness with an added layer of fresh dewiness.  Papilio slowly builds in a radiant warmth that seems to born in a soft breeze emanating from the skin as it moves and lifts to the nose.  The perfume then begins to settle in to a light leathered wood that is covered with a hazy powder that sits above the warmed base.  Overall it’s pretty, delicate and light as a feather.  Papilio goes straight to the heart with its endearing beauty.

From the Puredistance website:

PAPILIO is multifaceted, lively and vibrant. Created by Nathalie Feisthauer in Paris. ‘Embrace your true nature’ is the concept of PAPILIO (Latin for ‘Butterfly’). Butterflies come in all shapes and colours and accept themselves as they are – in each phase of their life..

Top notes: Bergamot Oil.

Middle notes: Magnolia Oil, Neroli oil, Carrot oil, Orris, Lily of the valley, Hedione HC, Heliotrope.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Vetyver oil, Amyris oil, Intense woods Ambroxan, Opoponax resinoid, Benzoin resinoid, Vanilla, Touch of Peach, Leather Ambrette, Cashmere, Muscenone.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Butterflies in flight.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPILIO:  soft, uplifting, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPILIOCaFleureBon 

BOTTOM LINE:  I think I should be tired of saying that Puredistance has once again graced the perfume world with another magnificent creation.  But here we are again and it’s a wonderful addition to the Puredistance collection.  Sometimes a beautiful perfume is hard to put into words, but instead describing its persona is the best way to give it life in words.  Papilio is incredibly soft and somewhat demure and unassuming, but at the same time it embodies strength and beauty.  And most of all, it’s absolutely gorgeous!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Nathalie Feisthauer
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (25% perfume oil).


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Thameen Royal Fanfare

WHAT I SMELL:  Fanfare opens with an inviting bergamot and a very Lemon Pledge-like lemon that shines bright then retreats quickly to make way for some soft and demure florals.  Fanfare is welcoming right from first spritz and I like the fact that it’s so approachable.   After short time, hints of herbs seem to come up from below the citrus and florals.  But in short order again, the herbal makes way for a buttery and creamy swath of  juniper which is quite unexpected as juniper is typically in the sharper and dryer vein.  But the cream ends quite quickly and a dry and smoky vetiver joins the juniper and becomes front and center which turns the perfume to the more masculine.  Here the perfume melds juniper, vetiver and a vanilla’d musk to create a very handsome and sexy perfume that is very easy to like.

From the Thameen London website:

A Cologne Elixir inspired by the Flower Market at Covent Garden which has been immortalised by George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion.

Created by perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, Fanfare is a melodic fantasy with a touch of impertinence exuding the spirit of contemporary British aesthetic.

It opens with a beguiling watery floral and citrus accord, which slowly becomes darker as the structure evolves and becomes more daring with the vermouth accord. Finally, the noble woods bring this dark depth to the structure of the fragrance.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Flower Market Accord
Heart Notes: Rosemary, Vermouth, Juniper Berry
Base Notes: Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The quintessential English pub…from day to night.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE FANFARE:  welcoming, interesting, handsome

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FANFARE:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse, I Fragrance

BOTTOM LINE:  Fanfare is labeled as a Cologne Elixir.  I have to say that it feels heftier than your typical cologne and that’s a good thing.  There’s a lot to love with Fanfare and I for one will create some fanfare myself for this fantastic perfume.     

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose:  Bruno Jovanovic
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense: $295 for 100 ml Cologne Elixir

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Xerjoff Warda Al Oud

WHAT I SMELL:  Warda Al Oud opens with a thick and heady osmanthus that feels as if it’s dripping off the skin.  It’s big, bold, rich and completely overwhelming but in the best possible way.  While the main star is the osmanthus, jasmine begins its ascent to the osmanthus mountain by adding hints of the light and bright.  After a bit, a buttery note makes its way in making it feel more like a lotion than a perfume.  I don’t want to call it pretty at this point, instead it’s beautiful in a seductively exotic, erotic and carnal way.  Here the perfume resides for quite some time, it’s rounded and voluptuous and it’s hard to believe that there’s any oud in it because it’s so smooth and just slightly earthy.  As the perfume slowly continues to develop, the jasmine and a slightly soapy metallic rose dance intertwined in a lilting manner off of the skin.  In the end, Warda Al Oud exquisitely embraces the wearer and anyone lucky enough to be near them.

From the Xerjoff website:

Warda al Oud opens with pungent osmanthus and seductive jasmine. Hints of Cambodian oud and tobacco notes are married to bitter roses and establish their auburn scent reign.

Warda al Oud is an attar composition of condensed metallic rose embracing the smoky oud and musk which intensifies the incense.

OLFACTORY NOTES

    • Bergamot
    • Osmanthus, Jasmine, Bulgarian & Damascus Rose
    • Vanilla, Cambodian Oud, Amber & Musk

Actress Peggy Drake, 1941.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Seduction.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE WARDA AL OUDthickened, creamy, rapturous

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WARDA AL OUD:  Scented Intuitions

BOTTOM LINE:  It is very rare for me to make a blind buy anymore.  But this offering was on sale and combined with a very generous coupon allowed for this beauty to end up in my collection.  I was a bit worried that with “oud” in the name the perfume would be too heavy, but Cambodian Oud is much softer and that’s very true in this case.  Warda Al Oud is so wonderfully beautiful and it blooms off the skin in the hot environment that I live in without becoming cloying and heavy.  But what I love most about this perfume is that it stays with you in a very quiet manner throughout the day and into the evening…and even the next morning.  Actually, it’s like a haunting tune that you can’t get out of your head.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Amber
  • Nose:  Chris Maurice
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 10 ml attar