Perfume Review | The Scented Hound

August 1, 2016
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

Issara by Parfums Dusita

WHAT I SMELL: Issara’s opening is warm and mysterious focusing around a heavenly dreamlike pine and cedar. It also feels gently masculine along with a sense of confidence and security. In a short while, there’s a light barber shop vibe that emerges, like hair tonic. This helps to make the perfume feel neat and trimmed without feeling stuffy. As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a buzzing and humming radiance that moves the perfume from the barber shop to the more herbal topped with just a hint of flattened booziness. There’s a consistent green that sits at the base, but more of a forest vs. a floral green. I find at this point that there’s a real beefiness to the fragrance. But as soon as I say that, out bursts a more sparkling pine tinged with a light sugared amber and honeyed tobacco. Here the perfume resides in the most perfect of states for a lengthy period until a light musk is added to the mix which doesn’t detract from the overall state of grace. Where other perfumes lose their sweet spot at the heart, Issara keeps on giving throughout. Absolutely wonderful.

From the Parfums Dusita website:

A one of a kind fresh Fougère fragrance for the free and independent spirit – the scent with a sense for inner freedom. A fabulous perfume evoking fresh summer mornings, lush green fields, an invigorating breeze blowing through the pines …

At the Top: Brisk, fresh green Pine stirs the senses and blends joyfully with subtle, soft herbal notes for a walk in nature!

The Heart : A rousing Coumarin accord delivers the pure country-fresh fragrance of new-mown hay, with rich balsamic notes of the forest from Vertiver Bourbon, and the intimately mellow scent of Sylvester Pine Leaf.

Base Notes : Played by a trio of spontaneous, earthy aromas — magical Musk, a woody Oakmoss and an extremely rare, rich natural Ambergris

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfume for the Millenial man. It’s a traditional male scent with a modern and softer edge. It could easily be worn at the office (buttoned up), the virtual office (buttoned down), a night out with the boys or at the grocery store with the kids.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ISSARA: easy, comfortable, nod-to-nostalgia

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ISSARA: Megan in Saint Maxime, Kafkaesque, The Scented Apprentice

BOTTOM LINE: I am typically a bit skeptical when I keep hearing raves about new perfumes that seem to sweep through the various perfume groups on Facebook and other sites; but Parfums Dusita with its first trio of debut perfumes really delivers on all fronts. Melodie de L’Amour is a beautiful deep and narcotic white floral that is sensuality in a bottle and Ouhd Infini restores my faith in the use of oud which has been so completely overdone in the last couple of years. I’m having a hard time deciding which one of these three is the true masterpiece in the collection. Maybe they all are?!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Pissara Umavijani
Classification: Unisex but leans masculine
Expense: $295 Euros (approximately $330 US) for 50 ml parfum extrait

July 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Ex Nihilo Sweet Morphine

WHAT I SMELL: Sweet Morphine makes good on its promise as being addictive as it opens sweet, soft, gentle and powdery with a feeling of spun cotton candy without the confectionaried sugar. Lilac is listed as the top note, but I rarely get lilac out of the perfume, but instead a powdered and pretty iris surrounded by fringes of succulent green. After a few minutes, the light opening (which almost begs for you to apply more on because you believe it’s going to disappear) makes way for a vanilla laced iris and mimosa floral that moves from demure and softly spun to a much rounder and slightly thickened and slightly creamy candied state. The perfume then assumes a woody based, but resting on top of the wood remains the sweet and lightly peachy and powdered floral that makes this the addictive morphine it’s named after.

From the Ex Nihilo website:

SWEET MORPHINE, the embodiment of a self assumed but ambivalent femininity, at once delicate yet lascivious.

It’s floral bloom melts on the skin with a dark and addictive woody vanilla background.

A subtle bouquet tenderly perverted by a very captivating carnal lightness.

Notes:

Top – Lilac

Heart – Iris

Base – Wood Accord, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A sexy (not slutty) nurse. I’m ready for my shot of sweet morphine!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SWEET MORPHINE: current, uncomplicated, accessible

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SWEET MORPHINE: Colognoisseur, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sweet Morphine has a very modern sensibility and is incredibly delicious for a non-gourmand fragrance. Every time I wear this perfume it morphs just a little different each time; sometimes it’s a bit sweeter, sometimes it’s more demure, but it is always just the right amount of sexy.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $225 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 19, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Hiram Green Dilettante

WHAT I SMELL: My first impression of Dilettante begins with a light earthy soil note mixed with a minty soapiness resting on top. Quickly, the earthy moves towards a green tinted orange blossom that at first is rather linear and flattened, but as it progresses becomes puffed liked a cloud with just the lightest of sweetness. The perfume at this point has a very carefree bounce about it. Dilettante is seemingly happy, at the same time it feels like its holding a secret and it’s not going to let you know why it’s in such a good mood, but there’s a reason for it…it’s just not telling! Soon a bit of mentholated tuberose comes to join the orange, but there’s only just a little to add just the right amount of texture and spice. The perfume then begins to deepen and expand. What was so much sun and fun now becomes contemplative. Here the perfume rests its feet under the late afternoon sun with a warm embrace of orange blossom met with an ambered hue and a buttery honeyed finish.

From the Hiram Green website:

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine…

Frances Hodgson Burnett

Inspired by such simple pleasures as a stroll through a luscious garden after a rain shower, Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Dilettante, is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer.

Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange, Dilettante is an all-natural fruity and floral eau de parfum that is fresh and sweet throughout.

Still Life with Orange Chair – Anne Redpath

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Orange Blossom comfort.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DILETTANTE: relaxing, reassuring, at-peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DILETTANTE: Kafkaesque, CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram Green does it again. The fact that he doesn’t rush the creation process with numerous and frequent releases is apparent as his perfumes are consistently well blended and full of depth. Dilettante is the perfect antidote for those hot, hazy quiet days of summer.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum