The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Thameen Royal Sapphire

WHAT I SMELL:  Royal Sapphire opens with an invitingly sweet combination of bergamot and mandarin that quickly begins to warm and infuse itself with the biggest, most full bodied jasmine.  It’s heady, it’s intoxicating and it’s almost bubblegum sweet.  I might be turned off by that, but the finish of the mandarin and orange blossom seems to hold back the surprising boldness of it all.  Now all I have to do is to wait and see if it begins to retreat…and after some time it begins to.  After a short while, the jasmine begins to even out and a very subtle, flattened grey amber begins to lift towards the florals from below.  As such, the sweetened boldness turns more towards the cashmere.  At this point the perfume begins to soften and become a bit fuzzy with just a hint of powder.  And ever so quietly, the perfume begins its journey to the pretty as some patchouli brings a lightly sweetened finish to the now muted jasmine and the dried and powdery woods.  Don’t get me wrong, Royal Sapphire never really quiets to a point that it becomes mild and meek, instead it remains quite bold throughout it’s life.  Royal Sapphire cannot be called a shrinking violet.

From the Thameen London website:

The bright blue sapphires of the Crown Jewels are treasured by the British Royal Family and form the inspiration for this enchanting new fragrance. With the delicate combination of bergamot, mandarin and amber, Royal Sapphire fragrance recreates the desired depth and dazzling brilliance of the crown jewels. This fragrance is Thameen’s Jewel in the Crown.

Top Notes: Bergamot, mandarin
Heart Notes: Orange blossom, jasmine
Base Notes: Grey amber, patchouli, moss, amber, dry wood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Royal Sapphire is less like sapphire jewelry and more like a cozy and comfortable sapphire colored throw.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ROYAL SAPPHIRE:  pronounced, comfortable, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROYAL SAPPHIRE:  CaFleureBon, British Beauty Blogger

BOTTOM LINE:  A member of the Sovereign collection, Royal Sapphire is my first foray into the Thameen line of perfumes.  I like it…but can’t say I love it.  Overall it’s a nice perfume that could be worn on any occasion especially if you want to be noticed.   

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Amber Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $285 for 50ml parfum extrait

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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New Release: Puredistance M V2Q

WHAT I SMELL:   M V2Q explodes on the skin with a dry and smooth lavender and an electric pink peppercorn.  In all, it’s a surprisingly big opening.  In quick manner the perfume dries and powders and seemingly expands.  As it does, the perfume starts reaching to the depths with a warmed cinnamon tinged leather and begins to move to the more creamy with the addition of a beautiful jasmine sambac.  I was a little worried from the start because the perfume was so dry that when I smelled it literally constricted my nostrils, but my worries dissipated with the growing creaminess and the beautiful floral heart.  At this stage, the perfume is warm and inviting and increasingly sensual.  The perfume seems to infuse itself into ones’ skin as one making it more of an essence than a layer of fragrance.  As the perfume continues to develop, the cream begins to subside making way for a sharper mix of patchouli and tonka.  Here M V2Q seems to flex its muscle with a nicely masculine beefiness that is not shy in the least.  But once again the perfume seems to roll on out to the smooth and creamy as it settles from the more provocative to the more sublime.  M V2Q is a handsome devil of a perfume.

From the Puredistance website:

M V2Q is utterly smooth and refined. Welcome to a world of soft leather charm. This perfume is comfortable, powerful and bright at the same time. And true to the carefully curated collection of Puredistance, M V2Q is an extrait with excellent projection and longevity.

Top Notes: Orange blossom, Pink peppercorn, Lavender essence 

Middle Notes: Cinnamon, Cypriol, Pine tar, Jasmine Sambac

Base Notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Labdanum, Tonka, Cedarwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Daniel Craig as 007.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE M V2Q:  confident, smooth, intriguing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT M V2QThe Plum Girl, Parfumistans blogg, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Puredistance has discontinued their masculine masterpiece M and replaced it in their collection with M V2Q due to the unavailability of some of the ingredients based on new IFRA regulations.  Instead of trying to re-create the magic of M, they decided to work with perfumer Antoine Lie to bring new life to the perfume by modernizing it but within the same vein as the original.  M was inspired by the iconic James Bond 007…M V2Q is inspired by the latest Bond, Daniel Craig.  And it completely works.  For you lovers of the original M, there will be no worries moving to M V2Q.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Leather
  • Nose:  Antoine Lie
  • Classification: Leans masculine
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (28% perfume oil).

 


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Papillon Artisan Perfumes – Hera

WHAT I SMELL:  Oh my; Hera opens up with a sweet orange blossom that quickly moves to a warmed jasmine and ylang, ylang.  It’s thick, rich, intoxicating and absolutely breathtaking.   From the beginning, Hera is beautifully all woman and has a persona that feels all-knowing with its golden glowing countenance.  As the perfume develops, the florals become more creamy as the Rose de Mai begins to bloom from the center.  The rose is rapturous without dominating and it helps to create a dream like aura in its wake.  After some more time, a hint of incense whispers in, but I am guessing its the narcissus that I am smelling vs. incense, but in any case it adds a dimension of mystery to this rapturous beauty.  In slow and graceful development, Hera begins to powder and dry and a wonderful oakmoss note appears.  And a bit later, the perfume once again becomes a bit more creamy with what seems to be a hint of violet.  Here, the perfume is so soft and enticing and lyrical in nature.  It’s strange, because Hera seems to quietly move, meld and morph at every slow turn so it’s quite hard to pinpoint any development in a chronological order.  And as a result, every time it’s worn it feels completely different, but no less beautiful.  Hera is a gift from the gods of which this mere mortal is not giving it justice in my description, because it’s just to hard to put rapturous beauty into adequate words.

From the Papillon Artisan Perfumes website:

The goddess of weddings, family and blessings, Hera possessed a majestic power. Here, she is celebrated in the opulence of orris and jasmine. Engulfed in flowers, you are invited by a burst of orange blossom, radiating a golden halo of warm white flowers. Delicate touches reveal a buttery, rich embrace. Rose de mai brings a whisper of drama and gentle musk offers a sensual caress for Gods and Goddesses alike. A bright and beautiful perfume, steeped in energetic luxury and effortless glamour.

Notes:  Jasmine. Orange Blossom. Ylang. Rose de Mai. Orris. Narcissus

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Perfectly named, Hera is indeed “Queen of the Gods.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HERA:  glorious, captivating, breathtaking.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HERA:  Bonkers About Perfume, CaFleureBon, Taking One Thing Off

BOTTOM LINE:  It’s not often enough these days that I am completely swept away by the beauty of a fragrance.  I find many that are wonderful and interesting, but not ones that immediately grab my soul.  Hera is a masterpiece.  And one reason why is that it seems to carry DNA from vintage Caron.  Hera at times reminds me greatly of the chypre mastery of Alpona, the thickened golden beauty of En Avion and the intoxicating florals of French Can Can.  I can’t stress enough that Hera is absolutely breathtaking.  My only dilemma is that since I live in Mexico I can’t purchase a bottle because it’s unavailable here (in stores and for shipping).  So until I travel to other lands, I will have to be patient, because Hera is a perfume that will be added to my collection without hesitation.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose: Liz Moores
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but I believe it’s easily unisex
  • Expense: $310 for 50ml parfum extrait