parfum | The Scented Hound

May 7, 2014
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

En Avion by Caron

WHAT I SMELL: En Avion opens with a spiced Neroli that feels like it’s covered in a light wax. It’s not too orange, and it feels slightly weighted with a light incense and an inner warmth. En Avion isn’t a fragrance that morphs and changes, but rather it holds its own by daring you not to like it’s subtle but somewhat detached beauty. However, let me counter that after about 1.5 hours, En Avion becomes the beauty I crave as it develops into this incredibly creamy and wonderfully smooth floral composition with just the right amount of spice. I would also say that it’s a girly fragrance for non -girly girls as it feels semi-fresh and floral without being obviously pretty even though it is. En Avion is one of those fragrances that I love to wear to bed only to awake with a lightly spiced carnation that hugs the skin.

From the Caron website:

In 1919, to mark the dawn of women’s liberation, Caron made the bold move of dedicating a deliberately provocative fragrance to the beautiful androgynous women, nonchalantly holding their long ivory and mother-of-pearl cigarette-holders.

A subtly ambiguous fragrance, which takes the leathery top notes normally associated with men’s fragrance, and combines them with an infinitely feminine floral bouquet.

En Avion Notes: neroli, spicy orange accord, jasmime, opoponax

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Girls who don’t give a damn!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EN AVION: tempered, worldly, non-judgmental

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EN AVION: SmellyBlog, Perfume-Smellin Things, The Black Narcissus

BOTTOM LINE: En Avion keeps calling me back and I seem to be wearing it a lot as of recently. This review is based on the current version of the parfum extrait, but I would love to get my hands on some vintage as I have the feeling that there might be a slightly darker edge that is missing from the current version. My love for Caron just keeps growing!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Feminine, but can be worn by a man.
Expense: $100 for 7.5ml parfum extrait

May 5, 2014
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

New Release: Tango by Masque

WHAT I SMELL: Tango opens with a spicy bergamot that dances with pepper followed soon with this wonderful cardamon which gives it a slight medicinal herbal hue. After a few more minutes, a rather boozy almost whiskey like note is introduced and the fragrance begins to get a bit tangy and sharper which helps to lighten the rather deep opening. It feels like its revving itself up like pistons in an engine getting ready for the fragrance to take off. There’s a little sweetness that lurks underneath the spicy elements of the fragrance that help it to be more playful than sedate. The amber provides for a consistent warmth for the base that makes Tango oh so comfortable, yet incredibly sexy like a form-fitting dress that reveals every curve. After around 30 minutes, Tango becomes pure sex. The heady florals matched with the warm base just oozes off your skin. It’s intoxicating and breathtaking.

Tango note from the Masque website:

Head notes: bergamot, black pepper, cardamom

Heart notes: Sambac jasmine abs, Damascena rose oil, patchouli

Base notes: vanilla bean, tonka bean, melilot abs, amber accord, leather accord, benzoin, muscs

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: As the seductive dance between two lovers; Tango is named perfectly!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TANGO: lively, nocturnal, peppery

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TANGO: Colognossieur, CaFleureBon, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE: Wow! Tango took me by surprise and whipped me up into a carnal frenzy. Tango isn’t a fragrance that’s meant for the office, but is perfect for when you’re prowling the streets at night. Trust me, you’ll be noticed.

Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Cecile Zarokian
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $240 for 100ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

May 1, 2014
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

New Release: Junky by Jardins D’Ecrivains

WHAT I SMELL: Junky opens with this tangy herbal then quickly sour rather hempish opening. It’s like marijuana sticks and buds mixed with a bit of lemon sour. It’s pungent, yet intriguing because it’s different. After a couple of minutes a flattened quality comes in, but yet it’s tinged with light bits of candied flavored Pixy Stix. So far Junky is rather woody, but soon enough, the pretty iris comes into play. Again its unusual but very pretty. There’s also this contingency of oak moss and incense that snakes its way underneath the floral. As it progresses, Junky becomes more tart and much drier. After around the 30 minute mark, the tartness starts to subside and the fragrance becomes slightly sweeter. No, wait…after another 15 minutes the sweetness dissipates and the lightly musk like vetiver graciously surrenders a peaceful and calming presence.

From the Twisted Lily website:

William Burroughs was the most experimental and avant-garde figure of the Beat Generation, the one who went furthest in developing the complexity of the novel. In his your he escaped through reading Oscar Wilde, and he went on to lead a bohemian lifestyle, delighting in extreme experiences. His first novel, Junky, describes the harsh reality of addiction. Jardins D’Ecrivains presents its new fragrance, which points to the analogous experience of olfactory addition.

Perfume has the power to take us to a higher plane and really influences our behavior. Perfume reveals something intimate to others but also to the person wearing it. This is a complex, unique fragrance.

There are three key phases in its development; the top notes include the subtlest hint of fresh hemp. The mysterious middle notes bring in the creamy scents of gardenia, iris and violet, which then mingle with the dry-wood base notes of cashmeran, cedar and cade, softened by the frankincense and sweet myrrh resins and the aroma of Javanese vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A head rush; you sniff it in and the tartness collects at the top of your nose and surges through your brain in a rush only to then leave your brain and head very happy and relaxed.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE JUNKY: unique, journeyed, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JUNKY: CaFleureBon, Chemist in a Bottle, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE: I really like Junky. It’s as unique and as much of a wild ride that I have been on for some time with a fragrance. But the great thing about it is that it’s not a weird and strange being at all. It’s rather pretty, very unisex and in the end, easy to wear.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $110 for 100ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary