parfum | The Scented Hound

August 8, 2016
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

New Release: Lesquendieu le Parfum by J. Lesquendieu

I find it thrilling when classic perfume houses rise from the ashes and once again launch their legacy perfumes. These historical houses created luxury that few could afford in the day. Case in point, J. Lesquendieu’s new luxury line of French fragrances were inspired by an era when quality was valued above quantity, when fragrances were created for a discerning clientele. Lesquendieu, La Maison de Haute Parfumerie , founded in 1903 has returned to their roots to create this rare new line of fragrances continuing the legacy of the original founder, Joseph Lesquendieu, who believed “The quest for a true luxury product should have no boundaries.”

As part of this relaunch , J. Lesquendieu is reintroducing five perfumes under their original names: Bonne Fortune, a woody and spicy citrus perfume; Feu de Bengale, a vanilla floral perfume; Glorilis, a spicy floral perfume, Lilice, a powdery floral perfume (powdery, floral), and my favorite in the line, Lesquendieu le Parfum a spicy oriental.

Luxury in a bottle requires an equally luxurious bottle to house the perfume in. As such, each perfume comes in a hand crafted bottle requiring the work of eleven craftsman through the reknowned glassmaker Waltersperger. Although the company states that there are a limited or “modest” number of bottles that will be available, they don’t cite just how many that number is.

So what does my favorite in the line, Lesquendieu le Parfum smell like? Let’s take a look…

WHAT I SMELL: Lesquendieu opens with a flash of bergamot and then quickly moves to a smooth, velvety tea note that is tinged with a lightly spiced burnt ember. Subdued and calming, the perfume feels like it’s calculating its path forward to determine the best way to meld with your DNA to make the perfume exclusively yours. After a short while, the perfume begins to powder, the tea note retreats and a soft floral begins to appear with a lightly spiced iris that feels like its lifting upward as if through the soft motion of angel wings. But the powdery and light don’t remain in this heavenly state; instead, the perfume begins to warm and an ambered hue brings the perfume down to earth. The perfume has now become woody, but it still remains restrained and soft. At this point in the development, the perfume really retreats, leaving you wondering if that’s all there is. But after a short while, the powder begins to come back and a sweetened iris starts to radiate. The perfume is incredibly pretty, very sunny and bright. Finally, the perfume settles into the most beautiful powdered, yet lightly waxy ambered iris. It’s not sugared, but it’s just slightly sweetened to make it the perfect combination of pretty and fresh while still maintaining a classical sense of being.

From the J. Lesquendieu website:

A powdery floral fragrance pairing the nobility of Iris to the natural Italian essential oils of lemon and bergamot, resting on the more sensual base notes of amber and Virginian Cedar.

Top notes Bergamot, Tea, Birch
Middle notes Jasmine, Tonka bean, Labdanum
Base notes Amber, Cedar, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The graceful elegance of a swan.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LESQUENDIEU: delightful, positive, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LESQUENDIEU: None found.

BOTTOM LINE: Lesquendieu is a beautifully composed classical scent. Smooth and refined yet incredibly refreshing, it’s a superb perfume that could fit either a man or a woman. Lesquendieu is most definitely luxury in a bottle.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Spicy Oriental
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $520 Euros for 75 ml eau de parfum

Sample provided by J. Lesquendieu. Opinion my own.

August 1, 2016
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

Issara by Parfums Dusita

WHAT I SMELL: Issara’s opening is warm and mysterious focusing around a heavenly dreamlike pine and cedar. It also feels gently masculine along with a sense of confidence and security. In a short while, there’s a light barber shop vibe that emerges, like hair tonic. This helps to make the perfume feel neat and trimmed without feeling stuffy. As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a buzzing and humming radiance that moves the perfume from the barber shop to the more herbal topped with just a hint of flattened booziness. There’s a consistent green that sits at the base, but more of a forest vs. a floral green. I find at this point that there’s a real beefiness to the fragrance. But as soon as I say that, out bursts a more sparkling pine tinged with a light sugared amber and honeyed tobacco. Here the perfume resides in the most perfect of states for a lengthy period until a light musk is added to the mix which doesn’t detract from the overall state of grace. Where other perfumes lose their sweet spot at the heart, Issara keeps on giving throughout. Absolutely wonderful.

From the Parfums Dusita website:

A one of a kind fresh Fougère fragrance for the free and independent spirit – the scent with a sense for inner freedom. A fabulous perfume evoking fresh summer mornings, lush green fields, an invigorating breeze blowing through the pines …

At the Top: Brisk, fresh green Pine stirs the senses and blends joyfully with subtle, soft herbal notes for a walk in nature!

The Heart : A rousing Coumarin accord delivers the pure country-fresh fragrance of new-mown hay, with rich balsamic notes of the forest from Vertiver Bourbon, and the intimately mellow scent of Sylvester Pine Leaf.

Base Notes : Played by a trio of spontaneous, earthy aromas — magical Musk, a woody Oakmoss and an extremely rare, rich natural Ambergris

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfume for the Millenial man. It’s a traditional male scent with a modern and softer edge. It could easily be worn at the office (buttoned up), the virtual office (buttoned down), a night out with the boys or at the grocery store with the kids.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ISSARA: easy, comfortable, nod-to-nostalgia

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ISSARA: Megan in Saint Maxime, Kafkaesque, The Scented Apprentice

BOTTOM LINE: I am typically a bit skeptical when I keep hearing raves about new perfumes that seem to sweep through the various perfume groups on Facebook and other sites; but Parfums Dusita with its first trio of debut perfumes really delivers on all fronts. Melodie de L’Amour is a beautiful deep and narcotic white floral that is sensuality in a bottle and Ouhd Infini restores my faith in the use of oud which has been so completely overdone in the last couple of years. I’m having a hard time deciding which one of these three is the true masterpiece in the collection. Maybe they all are?!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Pissara Umavijani
Classification: Unisex but leans masculine
Expense: $295 Euros (approximately $330 US) for 50 ml parfum extrait

July 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Ex Nihilo Sweet Morphine

WHAT I SMELL: Sweet Morphine makes good on its promise as being addictive as it opens sweet, soft, gentle and powdery with a feeling of spun cotton candy without the confectionaried sugar. Lilac is listed as the top note, but I rarely get lilac out of the perfume, but instead a powdered and pretty iris surrounded by fringes of succulent green. After a few minutes, the light opening (which almost begs for you to apply more on because you believe it’s going to disappear) makes way for a vanilla laced iris and mimosa floral that moves from demure and softly spun to a much rounder and slightly thickened and slightly creamy candied state. The perfume then assumes a woody based, but resting on top of the wood remains the sweet and lightly peachy and powdered floral that makes this the addictive morphine it’s named after.

From the Ex Nihilo website:

SWEET MORPHINE, the embodiment of a self assumed but ambivalent femininity, at once delicate yet lascivious.

It’s floral bloom melts on the skin with a dark and addictive woody vanilla background.

A subtle bouquet tenderly perverted by a very captivating carnal lightness.

Notes:

Top – Lilac

Heart – Iris

Base – Wood Accord, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A sexy (not slutty) nurse. I’m ready for my shot of sweet morphine!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SWEET MORPHINE: current, uncomplicated, accessible

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SWEET MORPHINE: Colognoisseur, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sweet Morphine has a very modern sensibility and is incredibly delicious for a non-gourmand fragrance. Every time I wear this perfume it morphs just a little different each time; sometimes it’s a bit sweeter, sometimes it’s more demure, but it is always just the right amount of sexy.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $225 for 50 ml eau de parfum