New Release | The Scented Hound

December 12, 2016
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

New Release: Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie

As you probably know, I love traditional french perfumery. I also love seeing former perfume houses being resurrected. Le Jardin Retrouvé fits both of those bills and I’m thrilled that they’re back. Le Jardin Retrouvé debuted in 1975 with master perfumer Yuri Gutsatz at the helm giving birth to the “niche” perfume market by selling and creating perfumes that were personal and which rejected mass marketing and retailing. The company flourished for years, but unfortunately, after Yuri’s death in 2005, the company faded away. But through his son Michel and his wife Ciara this “niche” brand is once again creating perfumes…the same perfumes that Yuri created back in the 1970s. A total of seven perfumes have recently re-debuted. Cuir de Russie is hands down my favorite in the line…and that’s quite something because the entire line is fantastic.

WHAT I SMELL: Cuir de Russie has a soft, warm, sparkling violet and peppery opening. It feels like it dances on the skin with its warmth, yet cool embrace. There’s so much movement to the perfume as it whirls and twirls to the delight of my nose. Not long after that initial rush and exhilaration, a cinnamon note becomes equal with that of the florals, along with the lightest of leather. The perfume falls in a netherworld between masculine and feminine and at times it feels as if it’s a demure beauty, only to feel strong, masculine and self-assured a minute later. As the perfume continues to develop, it warms and deepens as it produces a wonderfully radiating wood tinged with leather and incense. Cuir de Russie is a perfume that is full of positive energy and optimism and these days that’s a welcomed state of being. In the end, the dynamic whirl of the perfume settles into a softened powdery chypre that’s a little bit dirty, but which is incredibly easy to wear. Delightful.

From the Le Jardin Retrouvé website:

1920. The opera hall is packed. Diaghilev is presenting his Ballets Russes. You are seated with a group of flamboyant Parisians in the front row. Wide-eyed, you watch Nijinsky and his soft leather boots. He leaps, he spins, he fills the stage with the bewitching scent of ylang-ylang, violet, and cinnamon enveloping a harmony of cade wood and styrax. You wish that this moment could last forever.

Floral Leather: Ylang Ylang, French Violet, Indonesian Patchouli, Cinnamon, Spanish Cade Wood & Styrax

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I can’t argue with the imagery of the Ballet Russe, it fits the perfume perfectly.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CUIR DE RUSSIE: positive, energizing, classical

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CUIR DE RUSSIE: EauMG, I Scent You a Day, Pierre de Nishapur

BOTTOM LINE: Cuir de Russie doesn’t try to be anything but an easy to wear, but beautifully engaging perfume. As such, I could see this as an anchor perfume in any collection. I also love Le Jardin Retrouvé’s La Nécessaire packaging where the perfume is housed in an aluminum bottle along with two empty glass bottles to transfer the perfume to, allowing you to choose how you want to use and store your perfume. Brilliant! Welcome back Le Jardin Retrouvé.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Leather
Nose: Yuri Gutsatz
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $185 for 125 ml eau de parfum. Available exclusively from the Le Jardin Retrouvé website.

Perfume sample provided by Le Jardin Retrouvé. Opinion my own.

December 1, 2016
by The Scented Hound 8 Comments

New Release: Aftelier Perfumes Amber Tapestry

WHAT I SMELL: The opening of Amber Tapestry hits the skin with a burst of heliotrope quickly met with a gorgeous, calming and deep mandarin. There’s a very cautious beefiness about the perfume and it radiates a rather marigold golden hue. There’s also somewhat of a gourmand feel as a cinnamon note becomes prominent in a few minutes. The perfume has movement to it, but in a way that feels like it’s rocking in a sun ladened porch swing. After a bit, the fragrance turns a bit darker and the glorious positivity in the beginning moves to the more serious. Here the perfume begins to really project and it moves to an early 1970s vibe as it reminds me of shades of brown, orange and yellow…and yes, it does remind me of a tapestry. The perfume is now dominated by spice as it continues to cradle between the gourmand and amber. The perfume is incredibly vintage…as it really takes me back to a bygone time and place. In the end, the warm yellows, oranges and browns calm down to a softened purr. Amber Tapestry is the comfort you need for those days when it’s cold, damp and rainy outside.

From the Aftelier Perfumes website:

Amber Tapestry is an Oriental Amber perfume evocative of vintage perfumes where the various amber facets are woven together like a golden tapestry. Shot through with other textures and colors, it wraps around you like sumptuous warm cashmere.

Top: heliotropin, yellow mandarin.
Heart: jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, pear, cinnamon.
Base: ambreine, labdanum, maltol, benzoin, castoreum, ambergris, coumarin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The most famous modern-day tapestry of all….Carole King’s 1971 Tapestry album.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AMBER TAPESTRY: vintage, heady, beefy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBER TAPESTRY: Now Smell This, I Scent You a Day

BOTTOM LINE: Amber Tapestry is a great segue from the warmth of the summer to the winter cold. Wearing it is just the layer of golden fabric that you need to keep you warm and cozy.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Mandy Aftel
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $180 for 30 ml eau de parfum. Also available in parfum extrait.

*Sample courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes. Opinion my own.

November 23, 2016
by The Scented Hound 19 Comments

New Release: Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green

Oooooh, I love a Hiram Green perfume and can’t wait to see what this new creation has to behold…

WHAT I SMELL: Arbolé Arbolé opens with a putty like chewy patchouli that feels encased in a light rubber or elastic. It’s pretty, but also has this futuristic feel (futuristic like what we thought the future would be like in the 1960s)…as such, it has vintage futuristic vibe. Soon, the opening kick to futuristic nostalgia adds a citrus and woody edge that moves the rubberized consistency away, although there is still a bit of a putty edge to the perfume. After some more time a warmed base emerges with a chewy, thickened vanilla…and the perfume really starts to project. Once again the chewy moves away and the perfume begins to dry considerably. Here, the perfume radiates this calming lightly sweet rich vanilla that’s tamed by the tonka bean…and the perfume reminds me of something in my youth, but I just can’t put my finger on it. But I can tell you that it’s a warm fuzzy connection. Continuing on, the perfume becomes velvety smooth as if the ingredients were lightly warmed to create seamless infusion. In the end, the perfume deepens, still smooth, still creamy with a light powder. I absolutely love this perfume.

From the Hiram Green website:

Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Arbolé Arbolé, is a warm and woody fragrance that takes its name and spirit from Lorca’s eponymous poem. Ostensibly simple, yet subtly complex, this is an unashamedly romantic fragrance for those who dare to dream.

Arbolé Arbolé opens with a burst of earthy patchouli that slowly merges with rich cedar wood and velvety sandalwood. Vanilla and tonka bean anchor the fragrance and provide a sweet and powdery base.

The following is Hiram’s inspiration from Frederico Lorca:

Arbolé, Arbolé

Tree, tree
dry and green.

The girl with the pretty face 
is out picking olives. 
The wind, playboy of towers, 
grabs her around the waist. 
Four riders passed by
on Andalusian ponies, 
with blue and green jackets 
and big, dark capes. 
“Come to Cordoba, muchacha.” 
The girl won’t listen to them. 
Three young bullfighters passed, 
slender in the waist, 
with jackets the color of oranges 
and swords of ancient silver. 
“Come to Sevilla, muchacha.” 
The girl won’t listen to them. 
When the afternoon had turned
dark brown, with scattered light, 
a young man passed by, wearing 
roses and myrtle of the moon. 
“Come to Granada, muchacha.” 
And the girl won’t listen to him. 
The girl with the pretty face
keeps on picking olives 
with the grey arm of the wind 
wrapped around her waist.
Tree, tree
dry and green.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Suburban living in the 60s…family, optimism and life was good (based on my childhood memories).

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ARBOLÉ ARBOLÉ: nostalgic, reassuring, unique

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ARBOLÉ ARBOLÉ: Take One Thing Off, Jaroslav Blog (in Polish), AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram has done it again…and I have to say as much as I loved Moon Bloom, this perfume may be my favorite yet. Some perfumers just seem to connect with you…Hiram certainly does with me. In reading “What I Smell” above, you wouldn’t think that words like “putty” and “chewy” would lead to love, but it does. Absolutely beautiful.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent Woody
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $135 Euro for 50 ml eau de parfum. Hiram is currently running a special on his website, purchase the 50 ml bottle and get a 10 ml travel size for free. Perfect to keep for yourself, or to give as a stocking stuffer for someone you love!

Sample courtesy of Hiram Green. Opinion my own.