The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


5 Comments

Focus on Mexico: Sandovalis Perfumes and Cicle Club Review

Before leaving the US in 2017 for Mexico, it was clear that there was an entrepreneurial groundswell happening with small start-up companies, stores and restaurants happening throughout the country.  It was exciting to see craftmanship return to the marketplace with people who had the love and spirit to make and provide new and unique products and services.  Here in Mexico, the same is happening, especially with the younger generation.  And because of it, many are bringing a new twist to the traditional in a very exciting way.

One of these entrepreneurs lives right here in Merida; Jose Sandovalis of Sandovalis Perfumes.  As a self-taught perfumer, Jose has used his love of perfume, botany and the Yucatan to create a line of perfumes, candles and personal grooming products that are rooted in the local environment.  Jose cites that his interest in perfume began with his grandmother who had a book of perfumes from the late 19th century.  But it wasn’t just his grandmother that helped to influence this interest; his father and grandfather helped to educate and mentor with a shared passion for botany.  Now, together with his wife Cindy, they have handcrafted a collection of unique products that are tied to the history and botanicals of the Yucatan.  And they source their materials throughout the peninsula with a concentration on fair trade.  To Jose, sustaining and supporting the local people is key to his mission.   Sorry to say however, that these products are only available in Mexico.  So if you need a good excuse to come experience this wonderful country, this is one good reason to do so

WHAT I SMELL:   Cicle Club first spins off of the skin with a fresh and tangy lightly sugared tangerine.  The pefume sparkles with a bright energy.  After a couple of minutes, the cheery opening starts to retreat, leaving the wearer wondering if the perfume is about to disappear after a quick hello.    But as expected, the perfume begins to reveal a more herbal heart with hints of dewy wood.   The light sugared sweetness is still there, but it has retreated in such a manner giving it a quiet and understated level of positivity.  After some time, a tobacco note starts to swirl and rise through the center of the perfume.  It’s projection is just right as it feels a bit windswept off of the skin.

Head notes:  Tangerine and Rosemary

Heart notes:  Good grass and Basil

Background notes:  Cedar and Tobacco

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A quiet early evening bike ride underneath Merida’s Arcos de Dragones.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CICLE CLUB:  understated, classic, comfortable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CICLE CLUB:  None found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Cicle Club is clearly a gentlemen, but one with a sporty heart.  It’s herbal and woody tobacco freshness is perfect in the heat of the summer and for any time of year.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Woody
  • Nose:  Jose Sandovalis
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: Approximately $50 for 60 ml eau de parfum.  Also available in 30 ml.

For more information, please check out the wonderfully historical Sandovalis Perfumes website (in Spanish – easy to translate using Google Chrome).


4 Comments

Christmas Elegance – Paper White by DSH Perfumes

For years, the start of the holiday season has included the tradition of putting paperwhite (narcissus) bulbs in a rock filled pot so that by the time Christmas is here, we’ll be greeted by the delicate flowers on sinewy stems.  These white flowers, though small in size, create a wonderful and powerful aroma that fills the room.  I was thrilled to see that DSH made tribute to paperwhites, the simple flowers that even in the midst of winter, their delicate blooms give hope and light to the coming spring.

WHAT I SMELL:   Paper White graces the skin with soft and lightly sweet delicate honeyed tinged florals.  The perfume is green without being sharp and very quickly after opening, the narcissus begins to open and bloom on the skin.  There’s a warmth of orris root at the base of the shining florals and it provides the perfect sense of comfort.  Even though the perfume is comforting, that doesn’t mean it’s like wearing a set flannel pajamas; instead, the perfume exudes grand elegance.  Paper White is like a shimmering evening dress under glittering and flickering candlelight.  As the perfume continues to develop, the warm heart fills the nostrils with a powdery oakmoss.  I can say that wearing Paper White will easily become on of my new Christmas traditions.

From the DSH websites:

A bright sparkling green opening reveals a crepe-like paper / narcissus heart.   It’s a fresh, modern take on the Spring Narcissus concept that dries down to a soft, green chypre in the base.

Notes:  Earl Grey Natural (Accord), Green Narcissus (accord), Iris / Orris, Jonquil Absolute, Papyrus,  Rice Paper (accord), Australian Sandalwood, Green Oakmoss, Mysore Sandalwood, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Narcissus Absolute, Bergamot, Tunisian Neroli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Delicate paperwhites of course.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPER WHITE:  elegant, stunning, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPER WHITE:  I Scent You a Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Although Caron’s Narcisse Noir and Narcisse Blanc capture narcissus’s rather sharp edges, I believe that makes them both a harder wear.  To me, Paper White embodies the heart of the flower with a soft and more approachable manner.  I love its elegance and grace…it’s just so wonderfully pretty.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Dawn Spencer Horowitz
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Review based on the Vol de Parfum version.  $125 for 30m.  Also available in extrait and eau de parfum via the DSH website.

Merry Christmas to you and yours from The Scented Hound.


5 Comments

Cartier – XII L’Heure Mysterieuse

WHAT I SMELL:  L’Heure Mysterieuse has a strange opening that’s full of smoke and tar as well as a heavy patchouli that is thick, chewy and rather like paste.  The smoke rises off of the skin like some kind of industrial component.  This is a very bizarre as I can’t see how the opening brings promise of anything beautiful or gentile….or something that represents “Cartier.”  Thankfully, after a short time, the tar and heavy smoke begin to lift.  A dried flatness of incense appears instead and the perfume starts to belie a more gentle persona.  But don’t get me wrong, there’s a strength to the perfume in that it has a fighting energy buried beneath the smoky subdued radiance.  After quite some time a light floral appears, once again softening the former intensity.  To me, L’Heure Mysterieuse is a hard perfume to describe, but I can tell you that it has a classic old world heart that reminds me of fragrances from the 1970s.

From the Cartier website:

Silence was on the prowl. You could hear it breathing, lurking like desire. The calmness felt only temporary. Drowsiness gained life, slowly jasmine and heavily PATCHOULI. This was the time for listening to your own pulse at the edge of abandon, like a reverse countdown, a voyage into the intimate where everything both takes shape and disintegrates. Withdraw into yourself, escape and focus your mind on your inner self, reaching that point where self-awareness resides. Was it elemi gum, CORIANDER day? Was it incense, FRANKINCENSE night? Soon you must leave the juniper darkness… but not quite yet. First, savor L’HEURE MYSTÉRIEUSE for just one hour – no longer, that’s a promise – extracted from deep within, and rediscover your own personal roots.

La Liberté guidant le peuple. Eugène Delacroix. 1830

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  La Liberté.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  smoky, intense, retro

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE MYSTERIEUSE:  AustralianPerfumeJunkies, Bois de Jasmin, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE:  L’Heure Mysterieuse Is a like and not a love for me.  The opening is weirdly interesting, but the drydown redeems the perfume as it turns into a retro classical scent.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Nose:  Mathilde Laurent
  • Classification: Unisex (but to me it leans masculine)
  • Expense: $285 for 75 ml eau de parfum