fragrance | The Scented Hound

May 26, 2014
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Tom Ford Black Orchid

WHAT I SMELL: Black Orchid opens with this luscious citrus that dances upon some candied florals. It’s spicy sweet without being obnoxious . After a couple of minutes, in comes the orchid, big, creamy and smooth and it’s met with a flattened note that I can’t quite put my finger on, but it might be the chocolate note (see notes below), but after a few more minutes that seems to dissipate. After around ten minutes, Black Orchid begins to warm and mellow with the vanilla coming forward like it’s covering the fragrance with a creamy layer of elegance. At around the 30 minute mark, the fragrance becomes more woody that’s dried with some peppered spice. And then at around the hour mark, the patchouli starts to begin to lightly sweeten Black Orchid again. When it’s all said, in the end you’re left with this spellbinding concoction that is greatly seductive.

Black Orchid notes listed in Fragrantica:

The top notes are French jasmine, black truffle, ylang-ylang, black currant and effervescent citrus. In the floral-spicy heart, dwells the Tom Ford‘s black orchid, imaginary more than real, and the base combines woodsy notes (patchouli and sandalwood), dark chocolate, incense, amber, vetiver, vanilla and balsam.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Bringing the 1980s back to the present.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BLACK ORCHID: creamy, bewitching, lush

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLACK ORCHID: The Perfume Critic, What Men Should Smell Like, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE: Tom Ford and I have not always been great friends as his perfumes will tend to overwhelm me. Black Orchid could do the same, but if you moderate the application, it’s incredibly beautiful.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Feminine, but can easily be worn by a man
Expense: $110 for 50ml EdP from the Tom Ford website

May 23, 2014
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

The Hound’s Guest Post on CaFleureBon: Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille & Picnic at Hanging Rock Draw

One of my favorite fragrance industry experts, Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief at CaFleureBon, recently asked me to contribute to one of my favorite fragrance sites with a guest post. I was and am thrilled beyond belief that she would have this humble hound as a contributor. In any case, my first (and hopefully, not last) post for CaFleureBon provides a review of Sonoma Scent Studio’s Jour Ensolielle. After being introduced to Sonoma Scent Studio with the wonderful new release Yin & Ylang, this second foray into Laurie’s work was another thrill as I have to say it even topped my love of Yin & Ylang, and that’s not an easy feat. Please check the full review at Fragrance Review: Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille & Picnic at Hanging Rock Draw.

Oh, and for my regular readers, what it doesn’t state in the articles is how many bones I give Jour Ensoleille. So as not to disappoint; I have to say that I give it 4.5 bones!

May 19, 2014
by The Scented Hound Leave a comment

Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire

WHAT I SMELL: Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire opens with citrus and mint that’s clean and cool. The fragrance then moves quickly towards a slightly honeyed woody cedar. Additionally, there seems to be an almost hidden chocolate accord buried in the mix, like a semi-sweet bakers chocolate. After around five minutes the fragrance begins to sweeten and sparkle. After another five minutes the cedar really takes over, but it’s highlighted with a layered of sprinkled brown sugar and tobacco that makes the fragrance pop. Add some patchouli in and in the end you’re left with a lightly woody patchoulied fragrance with hints of chocolate.

From the Cartier website:

Wearing Pasha de Cartier means sporting a fragrance that has a cool elegance and the power of seduction. Cartier has created a new edition of the legendary Pasha de Cartier fragrance. The subtlety of this fragrance comes from the hint of green and fresh citrus, which perfectly balances the woody amber and cedarwood notes.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Like this cedar stencil on a pantone card.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE: woody, OK, semi-sweet

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE: I couldn’t find any.

BOTTOM LINE: An OK Pasha de Cartier flanker, but nothing that sets the world on fire. But sometimes you don’t want to set the world on fire. Funny though, with “noire” in the name, I was expecting something darker or more elegant for evening wear.

Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $105 for 100ml EdT