The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Maison Crivelli Neroli Nasimba

WHAT I SMELL:  Neroli Nasimba opens with a warmed cardamom and petitgrain that feels as if it was dried in the grassland sun.  In short time, a light sweetened neroli begins to make itself known.  It’s very subtle as if it was brushed on top of the dried grass.  The perfume buzzes with a light vibration of sun and wood.  And after a bit, a light puttied labdanum and vetiver help to create a semi-soured covering over the wood.  Very slowly, a sweetened note of orange blossom returns to lighten the perfume.  It sits radiantly above the woody base although it remains somewhat elusive.  And just when you think the perfume’s development has ended, the orange blossom blooms above a light leathered wood.  Here the perfume remains with an ethereal mix of sun and earth.  Neroli Nasimba is really lovely.

From the Maison Crivelli website:

4:30 am: tangerine awakening, orange savannah. Step by step: pink dust, acacia shadow, tawny wood. A distant roar. Slender stripes, spotted leather. Feline neroli.

The experience: a discovery of orange blossom during a walking safari

The surprising contrast: orange blossom essential oil (neroli) and a leather accord

Top notes are Pink Pepper, Cardamom and Mandarin Orange; middle notes are Neroli, Orange Blossom and Petitgrain; base notes are Saffiano Leather, Labdanum and Vetiver.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  African straw mask.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NEROLI NASIMBA:  calming, natural, semi-arid

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NEROLI NASIMBA: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Maison Crivelli has captured the essence of the savannah.  It’s a peaceful perfume that feels modern, yet at the same time feels like it was created at of the vast edges of the earth where time stands still.  Neroli Nasimba is a perfume that will create a sense of calm whenever you wear it which is perfect for slowing down our complicated lives.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Leather
  • Nose:  Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  Starting at $120 for 30 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Tom Ford Ombré Leather Parfum

WHAT I SMELL:  Ombré Leather Parfum opens with a light suede and a dusting of violet leaf.  It’s soft and a little creamy with a clean finish.  From the beginning, the suede feels smooth and pliable like a set of very fine gloves or the softest of slippers.  As the perfume develops, the suede moves to more of a hardened leather.  But don’t get me wrong, there is nothing but elegance here as the leather retains its’ gentlemanly demeanor.  After some time, the leather adds just a touch of woody tobacco.  Here, the perfume moves from the closet to the men’s club.  Again, the perfume remains refined while being incredibly approachable.  And then some time later, a light floral glides in that feels a bit spongy and which seems to float above the leather and tobacco.  In the end, the perfume quiets to a soft and comforting light leather perfume that is topped with the prettiest of violet florals.

From the Tom Ford website:

OMBRÉ LEATHER PARFUM INTENSIFIES THE ORIGINAL SCENT, FUSING HEATED LEATHER FLORALS WITH WOODS–CAPTURING THE UNBRIDLED SENSUALITY OF THE AMERICAN WEST.

ABOUT THE FRAGRANCE:
A DISTINCT FLORAL LEATHER, OMBRÉ LEATHER PARFUM MAGNIFIES THE ORIGINAL FRAGRANCE, MERGING BLACK LEATHER WITH POWERFUL VIOLET LEAF AND SENSUAL CEDARWOOD LACED WITH A HINT OF GREEN TOBACCO.

My Little Pony – Rainbow Dash

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  My Little Pony…lightly leathered, lightly sweet.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE OMBRÉ LEATHER PARFUM:  comfortable, smooth, approachable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OMBRÉ LEATHER PARFUM:  No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  I really like this perfume from beginning to end.  Being Tom Ford, I was thinking that this would be a powerful leather bomb.  Instead, I was quite surprised to find a soft, comforting and quiet perfume.  Ombré Leather Parfum is a perfect leather perfume for the office or for those evenings out on the town when you just want a whisper of leather to trail behind you.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Leather
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $165 for 50ml parfum extrait.  Also available in 10ml and 100ml sizes.

Review is based on the Ombré Leather parfum extrait version launched in 2021 and not the earlier release of Ombré Leather eau de parfum.


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New Release: Le Jardin Retrouvé Cuir de Russie

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As you probably know, I love traditional french perfumery.  I also love seeing former perfume houses being resurrected.  Le Jardin Retrouvé fits both of those bills and I’m thrilled that they’re back.  Le Jardin Retrouvé debuted in 1975 with master perfumer Yuri Gutsatz at the helm giving birth to the “niche” perfume market by selling and creating perfumes that were personal and which rejected mass marketing and retailing.  The company flourished for years, but unfortunately, after Yuri’s death in 2005, the company faded away.  But through his son Michel and his wife Ciara this “niche” brand is once again creating perfumes…the same perfumes that Yuri created back in the 1970s.  A total of seven perfumes have recently re-debuted.  Cuir de Russie is hands down my favorite in the line…and that’s quite something because the entire line is fantastic.

WHAT I SMELL:  Cuir de Russie has a soft, warm, sparkling violet and peppery opening.  It feels like it dances on the skin with its warmth, yet cool embrace.  There’s so much movement to the perfume as it whirls and twirls to the delight of my nose.  Not long after that initial rush and exhilaration, a cinnamon note becomes equal with that of the florals, along with the lightest of leather.  The perfume falls in a netherworld between masculine and feminine and at times it feels as if it’s a demure beauty, only to feel strong, masculine and self-assured a minute later.  As the perfume continues to develop, it warms and deepens as it produces a wonderfully radiating wood tinged with leather and incense.  Cuir de Russie is a perfume that is full of positive energy and optimism and these days that’s a welcomed state of being.  In the end, the dynamic whirl of the perfume settles into a softened powdery chypre that’s a little bit dirty, but which is incredibly easy to wear.  Delightful.

From the Le Jardin Retrouvé website:

1920. The opera hall is packed. Diaghilev is presenting his Ballets Russes. You are seated with a group of flamboyant Parisians in the front row. Wide-eyed, you watch Nijinsky and his soft leather boots. He leaps, he spins, he fills the stage with the bewitching scent of ylang-ylang, violet, and cinnamon enveloping a harmony of cade wood and styrax. You wish that this moment could last forever.

Floral Leather: Ylang Ylang, French Violet, Indonesian Patchouli, Cinnamon, Spanish Cade Wood & Styrax

24_vaslav_nijinsky-theredlistWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I can’t argue with the imagery of the Ballet Russe, it fits the perfume perfectly.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CUIR DE RUSSIE:  positive, energizing, classical

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CUIR DE RUSSIE: EauMG, I Scent You a Day, Pierre de Nishapur

BOTTOM LINE:  Cuir de Russie doesn’t try to be anything but an easy to wear, but beautifully engaging perfume.  As such, I could see this as an anchor perfume in any collection.  I also love Le Jardin Retrouvé’s La Nécessaire packaging where the perfume is housed  in an aluminum bottle along with two empty glass bottles to transfer the perfume to, allowing you to choose how you want to use  and store your perfume.  Brilliant!  Welcome back Le Jardin Retrouvé.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Leather
  • Nose: Yuri Gutsatz
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $185 for 125 ml eau de parfum.  Available exclusively from the Le Jardin Retrouvé website.

Perfume sample provided by Le Jardin Retrouvé.  Opinion my own.