The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion

Gardenia PassionWHAT I SMELL:  Gardenia Passion’s initial opening begins with a waxy smooth tuberose that’s tinged with pink pepper.  A wonderful green lifts the bouquet from below as the floral seem to sparkle with sunshine.  In a little, a light touch of earthen jasmine brings the floral to a more grounded level.  So where’s the gardenia?  As it further develops, a rubbery and creamy consistency comes in and give the feeling of a gardenia bloom.  At the same time the green turns to more of a vegetal tomato vine.  Does it smell like true gardenia?  No, instead the perfume takes on a more muted tuberose, but at times it does waft towards the gardenia.  The perfume overall has a light to medium touch which makes this perfect for the spring or summer months as it will not overwhelm or suffocate.

From the Annick Goutal website:

Annick Goutal’s captivating tribute to freshly-picked gardenia. A troubling reinterpretation, nuanced with the accord of mesmerizing tuberose and seductive jasmine.

Spring has Sprung

Spring has sprung!

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  There is nothing frivolous about Gardenia Passion; but the perfume, combined with the ensuing warm weather has me all excited about the burgeoning Spring!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE GARDENIA PASSION:  comforting, classical, lady-like

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GARDENIA PASSION: The Non-Blonde, Perfume Shrine, Perfume-Smellin Things

BOTTOM LINE:  Gardenia Passion is an easy wear that is beautiful, charming and while lady-like is not stuffy or too proper and could be worn anywhere and at anytime.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: Varies.  Review based on the Eau de Toilette version.


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La Chasse aux Papillons by L’Artisan Parfumeur

L'artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons-300x300WHAT I SMELL:  La Chasse aux Papillons opens with a muted bergamot and a soft and demure orange blossom that’s tangy green.  The semi-sweet perfume is lyrical as it dances and pirouettes off my skin with wisps like soft breezes.  Overall, the perfume is incredibly girlish, pretty and joyous.  The lightened jasmine adds just the right amount of depth with a tad bit of flattened earthened dirt.  But by no means is this a dirty perfume.  Instead, it’s all sunshine and garden with the white flowers, highlighted by an incredibly soft tuberose and the lightest of green.  La Chasse aux Papillons does not develop much, but it doesn’t have to as it’s a simple, pretty and beautifully sunny and happy perfume.

From the L’Artisan Parfumeur website:

Chasing butterflies, surrounded by white flowers. A fragrance icon, perfect for summer days.

Imagine a summer garden flooded with sunshine, full of delicate white flowers, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose and lime blossom; scents mingling to intoxicate the senses. Sunlight catches the wings of butterflies as they dart among the trees and flowers. Somewhere in the garden you can hear the laughter of children as they chase the butterflies, trying in vain to catch them as they escape on a sunny breeze. This is La Chasse aux Papillons (Chasing Butterflies), the scent of sun-kissed skin, luminous and transparent; a fragrance to make the summer months last that little bit longer.

Notes: Linden blossom, Jasmine, Lemon blossom, Tuberose

jeanettemcdonaldWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An operettic Jeanette McDonald (sans Nelson Eddy).

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS: delightful, charming, coquettish

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LA CHASSE AUX PAPILLONS: Bois de Jasmin, Megan in Saint Maxime, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  La Chasse aux Papillons is utterly charming, beautiful and delightfully feminine and a completely wonderful perfume.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Anne Flipo
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $145 for 100 ml eau de toilette

Sample courtesy of Arielle Shoshana.  Opinion my own.


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Armani Prive Pivoine Suzhou

armani-prive-pivoine-suzhouWHAT I SMELL:  Pivoine Suzhou opens with a sweet, fresh, juicy and mouth-watering fruitiness, with just a tinge of pepper. The florals are front and center with the peony as the star and it’s bright and easy and gracefully light.  After a few minutes, a light ambery warmth brings a radiance to the mix.  A layer of musk also comes into play which unfortunately takes the pretty florals into a more artificial stage that feels as though the perfume has been created in a lab rather than in a garden.  It also adds a slight “bathtastic” edge to the perfume even though there is nothing soapy about it. In the end, Pivoine Suzhou doesn’t wow, but instead maintains a quiet beauty that is easy to wear and is perfect as a light spring breeze.

From the Armani website:

With Pivoine Suzhou, Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted the Eau de Toilette, combining elegance and freshness with soft, lingering sensuality.

It is the first Armani Privé fragrance to be inspired by the legendary gardens of Asia.

Pivoine Suzhou Eau de Toilette is also a celebration of China’s most beloved flower – the peony. The symbol of the ancient Chinese empire, the peony represents happiness, grace and prosperity.

Pivoine Suzhou is an ensemble of great beauty, balancing art and nature. For Giorgio Armani, creating a couture or fragrance collection requires this same harmony of elements.

From Fragrantica:

ARMANI PRIVE PIVOINE SUZHOU opens with notes of juicy mandarin, pink pepper and raspberry which when blended, ensures a spicy-fruity introduction. Floral notes of peony in the heart are enhanced with essences of rose and May rose absolute, followed by amber, musk and patchouli.

GeishaWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A beautiful Geisha

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PIVOINE SUZHOU:  fruit-kissed, airy, delicate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PIVOINE SUZHOU: Sandra’s Closet, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I don’t love this perfume, but I rather like it.  There’s a delicateness about it that is rather comforting and overall the light and pretty aspects are enticing.  But a little goes a long way and too much of a good thing will reveal a heavy sweetness so it’s best to apply with a light touch.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Cecile Matton and Julie Masse
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $165 for 100 ml Eau de Toilette