EDP | The Scented Hound

April 22, 2012
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

The Scented Hound’s Interview with Kilian Hennessy

Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting and interviewing Kilian Hennessy who was in Washington DC to introduce his new Kilian Asian Tales collection at Sak’s Fifth Avenue in Tyson’s Corner. Sak’s Fifth Avenue is the exclusive retailer in the Washington DC area where you can find his creations. When I arrived at the store, there was a great deal of buzz which produced a fun and festive atmosphere. Guests were provided with a plethora of testing and sampling of the entire line of Kilian Fragrances and I had an opportunity to discuss with the West Coast Sales Manager, Dennis, the Kilian line. His knowledge and friendly insight was greatly appreciated. I also had an opportunity to meet Kilian CEO Elisabeth Noel Jones, who like all of the Kilian entourage was warm and engaging. And thanks to Heather, the Sak’s Fifth Avenue Tyson’s Corner Marketing Director, I was able set up a time to ask Kilian a few questions. What you first notice when you meet Kilian is that he is gracious, friendly, genuine, funny and very charming.

The Scented Hound: So what was your inspiration for the creation of the Asian Tales Collection?

Kilian Hennessy: I wanted to create a collection of scents that would appeal to the Asian culture. As such, I knew that I would have to create a line of fragrances that would appeal to the senses as much as to the spirit and as so we created this collection to create that moment and sense of spirituality.

The Scented Hound: Do you have plans now or have you ever thought about creating a line exclusively for men?

Kilian Hennessy: I do have plans to create a line of fragrances exclusively for men, but you’ll have to wait until March 2013 (said with an impish grin).

The Scented Hound: You have fragrance collections and evening bags as product lines, any other products that we’ll see from you in the future?

Kilian Hennessy: No, I am going to concentrate on perfumes and bags for now.

The Scented Hound: Would you say there is a difference in American and European tastes in fragrance?

Kilian Hennessy: In the US, Europe, Russia and the Middle East my 4 best sellers are the same in every region in the world. Number one in one region may be number two in another, but the 4 top sellers are the same across the board.

The Scented Hound: What are those 4 top sellers?

Kilian Hennessy: Straight to Heaven, Back to Black, Liaisons Dangereuses and Love.

The Scented Hound: Do you believe some of your new fragrances will take over one of those four spots?

Kilian Hennessy: We’ll see, I’ll be happy if they do, but I don’t really care because I put out products that I am really proud of. Some achieve success, some don’t. I don’t really worry about that. If I start thinking about this one did well so maybe I should create another one like this, then you become marketing oriented. I don’t want to become marketing oriented. I don’t worry about marketing, I don’t do marketing. I just want to make creations that are as beautiful as I can.

For those of you in the US, note that Kilian will be making his way to Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills in May and Houston in the Fall. He said he expects to be in Miami, San Francisco and Chicago some time in 2013.

In all, meeting and interviewing Kilian was a wonderful experience and I look forward to his future creations. And of course, I couldn’t leave the store empty handed. More details on my purchase to come!

The first two offerings in the Asian Tales collection, Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy are now on sale at Saks Fifth Avenue as well several other retailers.

Bamboo Harmony focuses on the olfactory impression of a sip of white tea drunk off bamboo, with fresh top notes of notes of bergamot, neroli and Bigarade. The white tea leaves being renowned for their sumptuous taste and delicate refinement are here accented with a hint of spice. Coupled with white tea there are Maté notes, interwoven with fig leaves and oakmoss, making us savour a serene moment of spirituality in a drop of fragrance.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $225 for 50ml EDP

Water Calligraphy is a scent built with simplicity and spirituality, like its Art. A harmonious duo of sparkling Grapefruit zest and Reseda blossom, underlined by dewy Water Lily to awaken the senses. In the heart, the majestic Jasmine Sambac enhances the evanescent magnolia giving an impression of quiet water sliding over Cardamom and Vetiver, like Chinese ink slides over rice paper.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $225 for 50ml EDP

Both Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy samples provided by By Kilian.

Information on Kilian Hennessy’s background and his collection of fragrances can be found on the By Kilian website.

April 15, 2012
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

L’Etrog by Arquiste

I had high hopes for my first foray into the line of Arquiste perfumes which launched this past year. Unfortunately, L’Etrog does not generate a great deal of enthusiasm in me. This is not a bad fragrance, it’s just a nice fragrance. Upon application, you receive a nice rush of citrus. Like most citrus scents, it’s clean and fresh. The sharpness of the citrus quickly moves to the background and you are what I am assuming is the date fruit that is listed in the notes. This scent is very familiar to me. It doesn’t remind me of anything specific, but that means I can’t really distinguish it from other like-minded scents. Unfortunately, after a couple of hours this really just vanished on me. I am still holding out hope for some of the other Arquiste fragrances as I’m a hopeless optimist.

Notes include: Etrog citron, Calabrese Cedrat, Myrtle, Date Fruit, Vetivert

Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 55ml EDP

April 5, 2012
by The Scented Hound 4 Comments

Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d’Orange

Yesterday was my partner’s birthday and I gave him a present of Tom of Finland Eau de Parfum. This was a fun gift. For those in the know, Touko Laaksonen, better known as Tom of Finland, created erotic illustrations primarily revolving around gay leather and hyper-masculine men. I think that it’s ironic that this caricature of masculinity has been turned into an Eau de Parfum, but that’s part of the fun with Etat Libre d’Orange. So one would expect a rough and tumble scent based on the inspiration. What you get instead is a lovely, sweet and soothing suede composition.

The first thing you notice is that in the bottle, Tom of Finland is a very bright and artificial orange color. I wonder if this is a new formulation since all ads show a clear composition. Upon application, you immediately smell burnt rubber, pine and lemon. The pine and lemon quickly dissipate and you are left with the rubber and an introduction of leather. At this point, it’s a bit harsh and you wonder where besides a smoky dive bar you would wear this. However, as the dry down occurs, the leather turns to suede, with vanilla and a touch of powder. It turns out to be rather sweet and intoxicating and surprisingly luxurious. Now, I’m not a fan of leather scents, but this is a fragrance that I would wear.

From the Etat Libre d’Orange website:

This is a fresh, pure water that can wash away the sins of the night. Clothing becomes merely ornamental, an insignificant wrapping paper that only serves to cloak the true erotic power of the flesh. This is a man who wants to play, to love, to ravish, and to be free of all inhibitions. Tom is sex.

Tom of Finland Notes:

Aldehydes, lemon, birch leaves, pine, safraleine, pepper, cypress, galbanum, geranium, vanilla, tonka bean, orris, vetiver, pyrogened styrax, suede, musk, ambergray…

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $80 for 50ml EDP