EDP | The Scented Hound

March 29, 2014
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

TRIOMPHE by RANCE

WHAT I SMELL: Triomphe opens with a spicy bergamot and a little pepper; it’s warm and inviting and well blended. After a few minutes the rose makes it presence, but it’s really muted by the warmth of the base which is rather smooth and creamy. As time progresses, the fragrance projects the patchouli woodiness and seems to sink deeper in a warmish pool. The fragrance begins to dry out, but it’s so full-bodied with the florals that help to give this so much shape. After around 30 minutes the fragrance really dries out and that rounded floral makes way for the balsam and the patchouli takes the center stage. In the end, you’re left with a lovely slightly smoky, nutty and peppery woody scent.

From the Rance 1795 website:

Only the word Triumph could describe Napoleon’s immense glory. And Triomphe was the name of one of the perfumes François Rancé dedicated to the idol of his life.

Napoleon loved the fragrances of his native island, and François Rancé drew inspiration from these: the light perfume of citrus fruit merges with the fragrance of roses and orange blossom, adorned with Grasse jasmine and Florentine iris. Cedar wood and musk, with hints of vanilla, give the fragrance intensity.

A decoration which represents the military virtues of the Victor was etched onto the glass by a Parisian master glassmaker. It is today as it was 200 years ago.

The precious perfume is made entirely of the rarest and most highly-prized natural essences, obtained from the best years, i.e. “millésimé“(vintage) mixed, stirred and left to age according to Rancé tradition.

Head Notes: bergamot, neroli, mandarin

Heart Notes: Bulgarian Rose, magnolia, wisteria, nutmeg

Base Notes: patchouli, cistus labdanum, tolu balsam, Reunion vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The sophisticated hound

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TRIOMPHE: classic, classy, gentlemanly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TRIOMPHE: None to be found. How is this possible given how fantastic this is?!

BOTTOM LINE: Rance has been operating in perfumery since the 18th Century and I can see why. If this is any indication of their products, I need to do some more exploring. And how pretty is that bottle?!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $110 for 50ml EdP

March 22, 2014
by The Scented Hound 4 Comments

VOHINA by HUITIEME ARTS PARFUMS

WHAT I SMELL: Vohina opens as a rich, smooth honey laden floral. It’s warm and slightly “bathtastic” as it feels like it’s suited for bath oil beads rather than perfume. I think I am smelling the lavender at the base, but it’s very muted which is nice as lavender can often times dominate a fragrance. As the fragrance develops the honey becomes deeper and the fragrance warms and it loses the bath oil characteristics. Around the 30 minute mark a woodiness comes out that seems to dry the fragrance without losing the lovely florals. After another twenty minutes or so, the honey get’s a bit sharper and that creates an almost hairspray kind of edge to the fragrance, but it doesn’t detract from the overall fragrance. I find Vohina to be very soothing, peaceful and relaxing and a fragrance that could easily take the tension out of the day.

From the Huitieme Art Parfums website:

A sunny afternoon in the fields, velvety and floral with peach tree blossom and lavender honey resting on golden hay.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful early summer day in a bygone era.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VOHINA: comforting, peaceful, unassuming

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VOHINA: Scent for Thought, Olfactoria’s Travels, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: This was my first foray into Huitieme Arts and it was a pleasant surprise. Vohina is not earth shattering, but you don’t always need an earth shattering fragrance. To me, it’s perfect for just knocking around on a spring or summer day.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Pierre Guillaume
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $125 for 50ml EdP

March 17, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

THIRTY THREE by EX IDOLO

WHAT I SMELL: Thirty Three opens with a deep rose and oud in that plasticine way that sometimes oud can project. It’s exotic, smooth, lush and it’s tinged with hints of spice. After a couple of minutes a bit of leather is added giving it a rather burnished finish, like a saddle that has been rubbed with some expensive oils to keep it soft and subtle. But just as soon as I think this is turning leathery, those aspects fade away. Interesting, the fragrance has a wonderful way of bouncing off my skin. One minute I think it’s retreating and soon afterwards it seems to project significantly off my skin. I just put a couple of drops on my wrist and trust me, those couple of drops are going a long way. After around the 30 minute mark, Thirty Three begins to soften and dry out and after around an hour, it becomes almost smoky. In the end, Thirty Three is pretty linear, but that’s fine as it’s big, bold, yet thankfully rather handsome too; and there’s nothing wrong with that.

From the Ex Idolo Perfumes website:

Thirty-three is a fragrance crafted from very special ingredients. The soul of the fragrance is built around a vintage oud – distilled in 1980 and aged until its release in 2013. It is also the only modern perfume to use a significant amount of wild-harvested Chinese oud oil and natural Chinese rose oil to build the scent profile. Contrary to most ouds however, Thirty-three is a surprisingly soft and velvety fragrance, and genuinely fits in an innovative space in terms of the wider oud category. Thirty-three is a deep and dark unisex fragrance, with dry and cold facets

TOP NOTES: Soft black pepper, Candied mandarin, Caoutchouc

HEART NOTES: Chinese white tea, Chinese rose, Taif rose, Orris, Damascus steel

BASE NOTES: Rare, natural vintage ouds, Aged patchouli, Heliotropin

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Confidence

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE THIRTY THREE: persistent, deep, warmed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT THIRTY THREE: Kafkaesque (thanks for the sample), Olfactoria’s Travels, The Perfume Chronicles

BOTTOM LINE: To me, Thirty Three isn’t an office scent as it could easily overpower if you weren’t careful with your application. But if you’re looking for something that makes a bold statement without beating up others with that statement, this might be a great choice.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Classification: Unisex, but to me it leans masculine
Expense: $120 for 30ml EdP