EDP | The Scented Hound

July 19, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Hiram Green Dilettante

WHAT I SMELL: My first impression of Dilettante begins with a light earthy soil note mixed with a minty soapiness resting on top. Quickly, the earthy moves towards a green tinted orange blossom that at first is rather linear and flattened, but as it progresses becomes puffed liked a cloud with just the lightest of sweetness. The perfume at this point has a very carefree bounce about it. Dilettante is seemingly happy, at the same time it feels like its holding a secret and it’s not going to let you know why it’s in such a good mood, but there’s a reason for it…it’s just not telling! Soon a bit of mentholated tuberose comes to join the orange, but there’s only just a little to add just the right amount of texture and spice. The perfume then begins to deepen and expand. What was so much sun and fun now becomes contemplative. Here the perfume rests its feet under the late afternoon sun with a warm embrace of orange blossom met with an ambered hue and a buttery honeyed finish.

From the Hiram Green website:

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine…

Frances Hodgson Burnett

Inspired by such simple pleasures as a stroll through a luscious garden after a rain shower, Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Dilettante, is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer.

Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange, Dilettante is an all-natural fruity and floral eau de parfum that is fresh and sweet throughout.

Still Life with Orange Chair – Anne Redpath

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Orange Blossom comfort.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DILETTANTE: relaxing, reassuring, at-peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DILETTANTE: Kafkaesque, CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram Green does it again. The fact that he doesn’t rush the creation process with numerous and frequent releases is apparent as his perfumes are consistently well blended and full of depth. Dilettante is the perfect antidote for those hot, hazy quiet days of summer.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 5, 2016
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

New Release: L’Atessa by Masque Milano

WHAT I SMELL: L’Attesa opens with a flattened bergamot with a slightly soured neroli that feels waxy, slightly yeasty and thickened like a styrofoam cushion. After a short time, a faint iris begins to appear, floating in a thin layer under the rest of the perfume. Soon the iris begins to grow and expand as it takes center stage. This is a warmed iris and a rather creamy one at that. The iris is soon met with a melding of other florals and the perfume starts to feel as if it’s a warmed scarf wrapped around the neck. The perfume radiates, but it’s very subdued and incredibly comforting. After around 10 minutes, a peppered suede wraps itself over the florals. It’s smooth and sensual and as it continues to develop the creaminess moves to a powder and the perfume pulls out all moisture. At this time, there’s a lightly sweetened powdered lipstick edge to the perfume which I really like. Eventually, the perfume settles in this powdered projection over a smooth and hazy slightly soured sandalwood.

From the Masque Milano website:

Act III Scene One

All is set for the rendezvous.

The soft lights seem to fondle the wrinkled sound of the old vinyl disc, and play hide-and-seek in the warm embrace of the jazz singer’s voice. The wide french-window is opened on the terrace. Outside, only the cicadas shrill drowning and the warm summer breeze. On the tea-table, a nosegay of freshly plucked flowers, flooding the room with a cocktail of smells and a bright colour palette. You uncork a champagne bottle and fill the two flutes. The unmistakable flavour of yeast hovers in the air. You settle into the couch, to enjoy this moment, and take a good look around – every single detail is simply perfect. You then close your eyes, breathe deeply, listen to the sound of her steps on the stairs. Can’t help smiling. You wish these moments would never end. There comes a knock on the door.

Head notes: Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne accord

Heart notes: Italian Iris abs., Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose abs., Ylang Ylang Madagascar

Base notes: Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather accord

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful, graceful and majestic Lippizan Stallion.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’ATTESA: dramatic, unique, passionate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’ATTESA: Kafkaesque, Megan in Sainte Maxime, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: L’Attesa unfolds in he most beautiful manner. It’s exquisite in its blending of the warmed iris and florals. My one wish is that it would have remained in the middle state of the creamy florals for the remainder of the perfume. However, that doesn’t distract from the perfume which is wonderfully different and unique. Also, kudos to Masque Milano for their new bottles which easily match the perfume in terms of beauty.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Luca Maffei
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 35 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Masque Milano. Opinion my own.

June 27, 2016
by The Scented Hound 13 Comments

New Release: Mona di Orio Bohea Bohème

WHAT I SMELL: Bohea Bohème initially sings with a beautiful leathered bergamot covered in a swath of cardamom, with hints of sweetness and brown sugared florals. Incredibly exotic and lightly warmed, the perfume pulls you in and holds you captive as soon as it touches your skin. After a few minutes, the perfume adopts of light creaminess and the sugared flakes turn more to a muted lotion. There’s a haze that emanates from the cream, like smoked incense. There’s also a tea note that emerges, but instead of dominating the perfume with a watery thin high pitch, the tea is rooted and thickened as if it’s made up of a reduction of warmed tea leaves in a bottom of a cup. As the perfume continues to deepen, it seems to develop as if its a sheet that is unfurled and a dreamy sandalwood takes hold as the perfume seems to darken in color and depth. Bohea Bohème ends its journey quietly with a radiant breath that’s softly spiced and completely exotic.

From the Mona di Orio website:

Bohea Bohème captures the smoldering delicacy of the distinctive tea cultivated in the Wuyi Mountains of China. The precious Bohea Tea, fumed with pinewood, is prized for its complex aroma and rich character.

Notes: Italian Bergamot, Cardamom Absolute, Florentine Iris, Blue Chamomile, Poplar Bud Absolute, Fir Balsam Fraction, Boxtree absolute, Geranium Absolute, Black tea oil, Smoked Juniper, Oakwood absolute, Sandalwood India, Beeswax Absolute, Bay leaf Absolute.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A snake in the most beautiful sense of being…the perfume doesn’t develop as much as it slowly glides through the most subtle of movements revealing small nuances as it wraps itself around the wood and green.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOHEA BOHÈME: gorgeous, mysterious, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOHEA BOHÈME: CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: When I found out that the new Mona di Orio perfume was tea based I have to say that I was not excited as tea based perfumes are one of my least favorite genres. However, Bohea Bohème broke the mold for me…it’s absolutely breathtaking in its originality and the tea note is just one amongst all the notes that blends seamlessly to create this skin hugging mystery. Perfumer Fredrik Dalman has created something very special here.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
Nose: Fredrik Dalman
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 75 ml eau de parfum