The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Mandrake by Parfums Quartana

quartanamandrake

Parfums Quartana’s collection of perfumes, Les Potions Fatales explores the treacherous beauty and intriguing lore behind nine of the world’s most poisonous flowers. At once tantalizing and perilous, these mortal fleurs have been used to nefarious ends throughout history. These flowers and the aptly named perfumes are seductive on the outside but are ultimately dark, sinister, and dangerous.   The poison that wooed me and called my name was Mandrake.

WHAT I SMELL:   Mandrake opens with a snappy bergamot which quickly turns to more of a ripened red apple which swiftly moves into a Bazooka bubble gum accord.  But that soon turns to a soft and sweet floral that’s creamy smooth and completely comforting.  The sweetness never hits a high pitch and as it develops it levels itself out, but there’s just enough sparkle to make this really delightful and engaging.  The perfume begins to linger in this lightly sweetened, cotton candy and bubble gum creamed state for quite some time.  That’s not a bad thing and don’t think because it’s has the bubble gum accord that this is for teenagers; it’s not.  After quite some time, a bit of leather appears along with a muted spice and a light incense.  At this point, the perfume is irresistible, sexy and overwhelmingly enticing.  In the end, the perfume melds into a wonderful sweetened patchouli and it reminded me of Dior’s Gris Montaigne…which is a good thing!

From the Parfums Quartana website:

In biblical scripture, mandrake was referred to as ‘the love plant’ and was through to have male fertility enhancing properties; as such it was mentioned by Shakespeare in “Midsummer Night’s Dream” as a cure for erectile dysfunction. Long used in Wiccan ritual, its roots were thought to emit a fatal, supersonic scream when dug up. Because mandrake actually smells of strong red apple, we gave the fragrance a red fruity heart but grounded it with birch leaf and birch root to suggest the roots of the flower dug into the soil. We also gave the fragrance a sharp aromatic note to suggest its infamous, deadly shriek.

Crisp Apple, Pomegranate, Birch Leaf, Birch Root, Bergamot, Mandrake Flower Accord, Rhubarb, Cardamom, Sueded Leather, Deadly Addiction Accord, Patchouli, Madagascar Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka

386px-dale_robertson_tales_of_wells_fargo_1957WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Yesteryear cowboy…rather clean cut with just a little rugged and lots of handsome and sexy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MANDRAKE:  inviting, tempting, satisfying

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MANDRAKE: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  The full line of the Parfums Quartana Les Potions Fatales perfumes are each interesting in their own way and completely different and varied, from the strange and unique (Bloodflower, Wolfsbane and Midnight Datura) to the more traditional (Hemlock, Lily of the Valley) with Mandrake fitting somewhere in between.  I highly recommend checking them out!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose:  Carlos Vinals
  • Classification: Marketed as masculine, but I found this to be very unisex.
  • Expense: $145 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.


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Timothy Han Edition Perfumes: On the Road & She Came to Stay

timothy-han-edition-perfumes-on-the-road-edp-60ml-12175-p

Based in London, Timothy Han approaches perfume making a little differently, choosing to produce perfumes in small batches called editions stating that raw fragrance materials vary year to year like grapes for wine.  As such,  theses variations means each run of perfume is created in a limited volume, with edition numbering to allow you to easily identify which batch of perfume your bottle came from.

Both fragrances in the collection were inspired by iconic works of literature.  And each fragrance is accompanied with a numbered work of art on the box cover tied to an individual artist. Similar to differing covers that appear with each new print run of a book, each edition of a perfume will also feature new artwork by the same artist.

ON THE ROAD – WHAT I SMELL:  On the Road begins it’s journey with a lush, moist muted lemon and galbanum.  The perfume is a little sour in addition to having an undertone of what smells  like dirty socks.  In a short time, the perfume begins to feel pinched as a birch tar takes over, mixed with what feels like a plastic sole from a tennis shoe.  After a few more minutes, the perfume feels as if there is a bonfire that is now lightly burning but which stemmed from a set of tires that once were raging in the flames.   Quickly, that aspect of the perfumes development disappears and the perfume moves to more of a rubbery consistence.  The perfume softens considerably and begins to become strangely pretty with what seems to be a sweetened patchouli and vanilla stirred into the rubbery mixture.

On the Road notes from the Timothy Han Edition website:

  • Top – Galbanum, Lemon, Bergamot, Lavandin
  • Heart – Amyris, Cedarwood, Patchouli
  • Base – Tonka Bean, Oakmoss, Guaicawood, Benzoin, Birch, Vanilla, Labdanum, Perou

classic-on-the-road-300x199WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  On the Road feels like just that…the perfume is all about the base of sweetened rubber hitting the cooled pavement.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ON THE ROAD:  modern, industrial, progressive

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ON THE ROAD: No reviews found besides feedback on Fragrantica.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Timothy Han
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $160 for 60 ml eau de parfum

She-Came-to-Stay-002-Neda-web_d6895f72-84a5-4041-abf0-e621a60d904fSHE CAME TO STAY – WHAT I SMELL:  She Came to Stay opens up with a warm, inviting geranium topped with cloves and spices.  It feels as if you’re walking into an herbal terrarium, with a breeze of lemon wafting through.  The perfume however is not light; instead, all of the components feel heavy, heady and pressed with weight.  After a few minutes, the perfume does begin to lighten as a metallic edge joins the herbs.  This edge actually does feel like a metallic pole that is planted right at the center of the perfume.  Although not bad, it does feel as if the perfume rotates lushly around this singular component.  There’s a great deal of movement in the perfume and as it continues to develop a mentholated labdanum starts to emerge.  Again, the perfume is warm and herbal.  After some time, the warmth retreats and the herbaled lemon ends up sitting on top of a woody base with hints of cloves and nutmeg

She Came to Stay notes from the Timothy Han Edition website::

  • Top – Geranium, Basil, Lemon
  • Heart – Indonesian Clove, Nutmeg
  • Base – Patchouli, Vetiver, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Cedarwood

Wilson_CastawayWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Wilson from Castaway.  There’s something very remote about the way this perfume feels.  Even though it’s warm and herbal, it feels very distant and aloof.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SHE CAME TO STAY:  herbal, removed, distant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHE CAME TO STAY:  No reviews found besides feedback on Fragrantica.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Fougere
  • Nose:  Timothy Han
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $160 for 60 ml eau de parfum

BOTTOM LINE:  Both of these perfumes are interestingly different in their own right.  On the Road is really intriguing in that it captures the post WWII age of a new generation through plastics and the automobile.  It has a nostalgic vibe and in the end feels very comforting and secure.

Samples courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.  Opinion my own.


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La Belle Hellene by Parfums MDCI

La Belle HelleneWHAT I SMELL:  Madame Hellene is true to the dessert honoring her name as it opens with bright aldehydes and a sweet pear.  The perfume is lush, juicy and dripping with a warmed honeyed tone of citrus.  It’s also rich, opulent and almost too much to drink in.  The pear is nectarous as if it’s coated in simple syrup and it’s also served with a fruity osmanthus.  I can’t get over the dizzying spectacle of the whirling fruit and florals which seem to bounce off the skin like whirling dervishes.  In a bit the perfume softens, but just slightly as the sweetened florals take on just a bit of powder, which reduces the ripe and wet which led the path at the beginning.  After some time, the perfume’s fruity florals are met with a warmed sandalwood and light musk which helps to even the fragrance out.  At this point, La Belle Hellene is as pretty as her name and the perfume develops this radiant powder with this delicious hint of licorice which is unexpected, but completely delightful.   Licorice notwithstanding, the perfume really starts to dry as it settles down into a powdered memory of ripened pear.

Top notes : pear, aldehydes, tangerine, lemon flower

Heart notes : Bulgarian rose, osmanthus, mimosa, ylang ylang, iris, hawthorn, mirabelle plum

Bottom notes : myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, cedar, amber,  sandalwood, oak foam, white musk, licorice

lavish dessertsWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A lavish dessert buffet.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LA BELLE HELLENE:  succulent, ravishing, fruited

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LA BELLE HELLENE:  Olfactoria’s Travels, The Black Narcissus, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  This pretty lady leaves me rather conflicted.  On the one hand it’s too sweet and gourmand for my tastes; at the same time it’s so proper and ladylike with just a hint of licorice making this unique enough to strike my fancy.  However, each time I have worn it, it does seem to test my patience a bit as it wears on me and becomes somewhat tiresome.  

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Fruity
  • Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $250 for 75 ml eau de parfum (non-bust edition)