The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle

When I hear the name Synthetic Jungle, my mind automatically goes to “Asphalt Jungle” and gritty realism and inner-city strife. So before even giving the perfume a try I’m struggling with the different, yet very memorable name.  Then add Frederic Malle to the mix and I have the feeling that I won’t be using the words, soft, serene or gentle in my description.  But I could be wrong.  Let’s find out.

WHAT I SMELL:  Synthetic Jungle opens with a slightly chalky lily of the valley that’s very green, very fresh and a little dewy.  Soon after, there’s an addition of just a touch of earthiness which gives the composition an undercurrent of black rich soil.  It’s the perfect accompaniment to the lily of the valley.  The perfume is semi quiet, but as soon as I write that it begins to blossom and the green really takes a forefront.  The addition of ylang ylang infused with the lily of the valley brings the perfume from the more demure to the more mature as the ylang ylang is more rounded and deeper and rather magnetic.  But after some time, that too quiets and the perfume begins to lightly thicken as if its encased in a light and chewy putty.  But that dissipates and once again the lily of the valley comes forward.  In the end, a little powder and a light leather help to even out the intensity of the green.

From the Frederic Malle website:

Bright and lush, mysterious and provocative, Synthetic Jungle is a stylized landscape in technicolor greens. An ode to cult perfumes of the 1970s, Synthetic Jungle offers a modern vision of nature reimagined.

Flipo retained the opulent basil of the original composition, along with a recomposed bouquet of hyacinth, lily of the valley, natural jasmine, and Ylang Ylang oil. To modernize and sharpen, she then added synthetic black currant and styralyl acetate, effectively putting the bouquet through a glossy, sparkling filter.

Flipo simplified the Chypre and leather notes, resulting in a cleaner, more streamlined accord. Finally, she added patchouli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The characters from the 1960-70’s Sid and Marty Krofft tv show “The Banana Splits.”  Don’t ask me why, but this is the first thing that popped up in my mind as I was wearing this.  No, it’s not because of any kind of banana note.  Instead, the perfume conjures in my mind what the fuzzy materials of the characters would smell like…a bit of 1970s artificiality akin to shag carpet.  Go figure.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SYNTHETIC JUNGLE:  green, nostalgic, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SYNTHETIC JUNGLE:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  I’ll admit that this review is probably one of the strangest I have written and my thoughts of “Asphalt Jungle” were way off.  But Synthetic Jungle is a bit different in its own right.  It’s rather nostalgic with its inspiration from perfumes from the 1970s and with that the “synthetic” really can be felt.  At the same time, it’s rather a pretty perfume that’s easy to like.  That said, I can see many really liking this perfume.  An interesting composition overall and clearly one that has played tricks on my mind.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre
  • Nose:  Anne Flipo
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $210 for 50ml Eau de Parfum.  Also available in 10ml travel size and 100ml.


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Chanel 1957

WHAT I SMELL:  Chanel 1957 opens with a bright and sparkling warmed bergamot that is quickly met with a soft and slightly creamy iris tinged with citrus.  It’s so pretty, rather ethereal and incredibly inviting.  In short time the perfume begins to powder and grow, but without giving up it’s soft demeanor.  The perfume seems to radiate around an inch off of the skin where it feels as if you’re snuggling your nose up against the soft fur of the underbelly of a kitten.  The florals are sweetened in the lightest of ways on top of a tempered wood and the musk is lush and full without suffocating all other aspects of this soft and pretty dream of a perfume.  1957 is probably one of the prettiest perfumes in the Chanel collection of fragrances, albeit rather linear in development.  It’s perfectly uncomplicated and I love it.

From the Chanel website:

In 1957, Coco Chanel was rewarded for her world-renowned talent and audacity to seize, reinvent and magnify rare materials. The 1957 fragrance embodies this spirit, which is signature to the heart of every CHANEL creation.

A sensual accord of white musk is delicately fashioned with floral notes of bergamot, iris and neroli, woody notes of cedar, powdery accents and a hint of honey. A luminous scent, a statement to the timeless style of CHANEL.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Audrey Hepburn in “Funny Face” 1957.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE 1957: delightful, easy, happy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 1957:  CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle, The Black Narcissus

BOTTOM LINE:  1957 is another Chanel that is so wonderfully beautiful in its’ simplicity and for it ease of wear.  And even though the name is 1957, there’s something timeless about this beauty of a perfume.  There really is an art to making a perfume so ethereally uncomplicated, yet refined.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $250 for 2.5 oz. eau de parfum


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Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir

WHAT I SMELL:  The opening of Corpus Equus is anything but quiet with its burst of birch, soured leather and hint of a soft floral that quickly moves completely to a urinous birch tar.  The composition is cool and rather damp and it smells as if a campfire has been doused by cold water and where the smoke from the fire has infused into your clothes.  Sometimes that can be a comforting smell.  Here, it just feels pungent, soured and rather jolting.  The leather does come out slowly and it does help to pull the perfume away from the fire and in doing so it helps tame it to a more wearable stage.  Corpus Equus continues to settle and with it comes a sharpened note which helps to continue to cut the birch tar.  Here, the perfume becomes more of a leathered radiant forcefield which is more earthy and grounded in its feel.  In the end, a smooth buttery layer begins to come forward along with a soft amber.  What started off as a raging stallion has turned into a rather tame pony.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

DARK / ANIMALISTIC / WILD

A deep black animalistic composition, with assertive leather notes.

Inspiration – A tribute to a fiery & impetuous horse

Corpus Equus Notes:  black rose petal, horsehair, leather, cigarette ash, Tonkin musk, amber infusion

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dude ranch.  For city folk, the ranch may initially be a shock to the senses, but soon enough the scents of the ranch are smoothed out for their suburban patrons.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CORPUS EQUUSjolting, contrary, smooth

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CORPUS EQUUS: CaFleureBon, The Sniff

BOTTOM LINE:  Corpus Equus is a perfume that starts off in the barn and ends up in a Ralph Lauren ad.  You wonder if you can get past the startling entrance where you are tempted to run.  But like a wild horse, it does get tamed in the end and it turns out to be rather lovely.  But Corpus Equus probably wouldn’t be best suited for wearing to the grocery store and it’s definitely not suited for the office.  Actually, I’m not sure where I would wear this.  It’s interesting, but..

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Noses:  Bertrand Douchaufour
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum