The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: chypre


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New Release: Aqua Sextius by Jul et Mad

Aqua SextiusWHAT I SMELL:  Aqua Sextius opens with a warm and rich bergamot and citrus which feels like it’s sprinkled with brown sugar.  It’s rather deep in its initial form which was a surprise to me as I was expecting something light and airy instead of this comfortable hug.  After a few minutes, a slight saltiness comes forward which at first seems a bit discordant with the other notes, but you quickly get used to it as it’s refreshingly different.  After a few more minutes, a minty herbal accord layers on top of the salt.  At this point, Aqua Sextius is a bit balmy, like a luxurious rendition of Ben Gay.  After around the 15 minute mark, the fragrance begins to radiate this wonderfully warm labdanum and amber highlighted with a kick of semi-sweet Guaiac wood.  After some more time, the fig becomes noticeable and it stays in this realm until after an hour when Aqua Sextius moves into an even-tempered, light woody and salty dry down.

From the Jul et Mad website:

A sensation of absolute well-being, celebrating the joy of life. This extraordinarily fresh perfume astonishes by its superb composition and by its longevity. Named after the original Latin name of Aix-en-Provence, known as “the city of 100 fountains”, this exclusive fragrance perfectly describes this most beautiful summer retreat, where the time flows in the rhythm of its legendary thermal sources…

Head : Bergamot, Lime, Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Green Notes
Heart : Mint/Eucalyptus, Marines Notes, Mimosa, White Flowers, Fig
Bottom : Labdanum, Ambergris, Cedarwood, Guaiac Wood, Oakmoss, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The earthen beauty surrounding the warm mineral springs.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AQUA SEXTIUS: comforting, salty, embracing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA SEXTIUS: Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon, Chemist in a Bottle

The village fountain, Vaugines, France

BOTTOM LINE: Around 7 years ago, we travelled around France and rented a villa with friends for a week in the small village of Vaugines.  We had such a wonderful time exploring the countryside, including Aix-en-Provence which was only around an hour away from Vaugines.  Aqua Sextius perfectly captures the essence of that region of France and its magic and beauty.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Green Chypre – Citrus Amber
  • Nose:  Cecile Zarokian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $280 for 50ml or $110 for 20ml parfum extrait

Sample courtesy of Indigo Perfumery


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Chypre Mousse by Maison Oriza L. Legrand

chypre-mousse0WHAT I SMELL:  Chypre Mousse opens with a moistened mushroomed note mixed with dirt and earth.  There’s an undercurrent of mint, but overall the earthiness reigns as it smells like you just unearthed the fresh moss from the forest.  After around five minutes the greener aspects of Chypre Mousse move aside for a dryer sage and oak moss, yet there still remains an undercurrent of mint and it’s moving more towards spearmint.  The fragrance starts to dull (when I mean dull, I don’t mean that it’s boring, I mean that it begins to flatten) and moves toward a layer of minty earth that is being dried by peaks of the sun.  After around 20 minute or so, a slight tobacco note comes into play adding to the drying effect.  Moving along, the tobacco note seems to become a bit sweeter and a bit more balmy and at this point the fragrance begins to hug your skin.  In the end Chypre Mousse becomes a faintly mintish and rather herbaceous earthy fragrance that has some surprising longevity and projection.

From the Maison Oriza L. Legrand website:

After the first rainfall in September nature exude scents of humus, peat and wetland.
This is the time for a promenade in the woods to enjoy the freshness after the heat of summer.
Autumn encourages us to contemplate, to observate nature that gently prepares us for the coming winter and its frostbite.
The mossy paths, precious jewels of the undergrowth, are brightened by the last rays of sun.
Cyprus-Moss evokes in us our surrounding nature which soon will be covered by the first fall of snow.
Smell of damp undergrowth of scorched leaves and the scent of moss before picking mushrooms and chestnuts.
Chypre-Mousse, a Fragrance of the House Oriza L. Legrand launched in 1914 for the dandies of this world!
Top Notes tonic & balsamic: Wild mint, clary sage, wild fennel & green shoots.
 
Heart notes aromatic & flowing properties: Oakmoss, Galbanum, Angelica, fern, wild clover, Mastic & Violet leaves.
 
Backgrounds Notes mossy  & leathery: Vetiver, Pine Needles, Oak Moss, Mushroom fresh Humus, Roasted Chestnut Leather, labdanum & Balms.

Medieval Apothecary

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I envision a medieval perfume would smell like from the local apothecary; herbaceous and earthy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE MOUSSE:  ancient, earthy, medicinal

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE MOUSSE: Kafkaseque, The Silver Fox, The Alembicated Genie

BOTTOM LINE:  I could not wait to get my hands on this when the wonderful Kafkaseque sent me a sample.  I am a sucker for a chypre and I knew that I would love this too.  How surprised I was when I found this to be interesting, but not something that I would ever wear.  In fact, after putting some on and starting my review, I went to the gym and found that the fragrance mixed my body heat magnified the medicinal qualities of the fragrance almost making me nauseous.  I was trying to figure out what was in the composition that was bothering me the most and I found that here is a tinge of a “Ben Gay” in Chypre Mousse that really is off-putting.  I will say thought that I LOVE that bottle!


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Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI

Last week I received six samples that I haven’t had a chance to start reviewing until today. Of course, that didn’t stop me from stealing a quick sniff of each fragrance when I first got the package.  The one scent that really stuck a nerve upon first sniff was Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI.  So when I reached into the package today… that was my first choice.

Chypre Palatin’s first offered up a rush of citrus and cedar and then quickly a warm amberish lavender and what seemed to be eucalyptus (but I’m not seeing eucalyptus in the notes?? hmmm).  The fragrance goes on very warm without being heavy and it’s very comforting.  In a little while the scent then moves to an even warmer almost floral setting.  It’s very peaceful and serene.  The kind of scent where you want to close your eyes and breath in its aromatherapeutic qualities.

As Chypre Palatin continues it’s drydown it moves into a very familiar what I would call barbershop phase.  It’s traditional and old world and masculine at this point.  But stop, don’t let me confuse you by thinking this fragrance is old-fashioned and masculine.  It’s not.  The opening and the dry down make it much more universal and modern.  In the end, Chypre Palatin quiets down to a nice oak moss and vanilla scent with just a touch of powder.  However, depending on what you’re doing, those middle warm aromatic notes will still come to surface as the day wears on.

Longevity is average as is the sillage.  Chypre Palatin is a lovely surprise that feels old and new world at the same time and I think would be perfect for men and women alike.

As I have issues with deciphering the notes from a fragrance with complicated compositions; just note that all the ingredients below make for a perfect fragrance!

From the Parfums MDCI website:

The result is incredibly complex and rich, a velvet-like fragrance, a sort of gold-embroidered, fur-lined brocade, somptuous and wild…

The surprise comes from the discovery that “Chypre Palatin” is utterly masculine, but could also be one of the most sensuous, voluptuous feminine fragrance !

Chypre Palatin Notes:

Head:  jacinth, clementine, aldehydes, cistus essence, galbanum essence, thyme, lavender 

Heart: rose, jasmin, iris concrète, prune, gardenia
 
Base: benjamin, styrax, leather, vanilla, tolu, castoreum, costus, oakmoss, everlasting absolute 

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Green Oriental Chypre
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Expense:  $250 for 60ml EDP with bust, $375 with bust