The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: chypre floral


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Christmas Elegance – Paper White by DSH Perfumes

For years, the start of the holiday season has included the tradition of putting paperwhite (narcissus) bulbs in a rock filled pot so that by the time Christmas is here, we’ll be greeted by the delicate flowers on sinewy stems.  These white flowers, though small in size, create a wonderful and powerful aroma that fills the room.  I was thrilled to see that DSH made tribute to paperwhites, the simple flowers that even in the midst of winter, their delicate blooms give hope and light to the coming spring.

WHAT I SMELL:   Paper White graces the skin with soft and lightly sweet delicate honeyed tinged florals.  The perfume is green without being sharp and very quickly after opening, the narcissus begins to open and bloom on the skin.  There’s a warmth of orris root at the base of the shining florals and it provides the perfect sense of comfort.  Even though the perfume is comforting, that doesn’t mean it’s like wearing a set flannel pajamas; instead, the perfume exudes grand elegance.  Paper White is like a shimmering evening dress under glittering and flickering candlelight.  As the perfume continues to develop, the warm heart fills the nostrils with a powdery oakmoss.  I can say that wearing Paper White will easily become on of my new Christmas traditions.

From the DSH websites:

A bright sparkling green opening reveals a crepe-like paper / narcissus heart.   It’s a fresh, modern take on the Spring Narcissus concept that dries down to a soft, green chypre in the base.

Notes:  Earl Grey Natural (Accord), Green Narcissus (accord), Iris / Orris, Jonquil Absolute, Papyrus,  Rice Paper (accord), Australian Sandalwood, Green Oakmoss, Mysore Sandalwood, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Narcissus Absolute, Bergamot, Tunisian Neroli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Delicate paperwhites of course.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPER WHITE:  elegant, stunning, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPER WHITE:  I Scent You a Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Although Caron’s Narcisse Noir and Narcisse Blanc capture narcissus’s rather sharp edges, I believe that makes them both a harder wear.  To me, Paper White embodies the heart of the flower with a soft and more approachable manner.  I love its elegance and grace…it’s just so wonderfully pretty.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Dawn Spencer Horowitz
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Review based on the Vol de Parfum version.  $125 for 30m.  Also available in extrait and eau de parfum via the DSH website.

Merry Christmas to you and yours from The Scented Hound.


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Bonheur by Bortnikoff Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Bonheur opens with a warm and enveloping sparkling bergamot combined with an oppulent mix of herbs and florals.  It’s coolly warm in the sense that there’s a citrus freshness mixed with a rapturous warmth that surrounds you in the most welcoming and quiet way.  Bonheur slowly develops in a very non-linear way which makes the perfume feel exotic and seductive while at the same very approachable all while it draws you into its mystery.  After some time, the warmth turns more to a spicy herbal as it vibrates and begins to project a wonderful buzzing haze off of the skin.  As soon as this transition occurs, a green fir appears, lightening the perfume and an oakmoss begins to dry and powder the magical elixir.  But still after some more time, the more exotic once again seems to layer itself over the oakmoss with a lovely clove and incense note.  To me, the drydown is pure heaven.

Notes from the Bortnikoff website:

Top notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Frangipani, Tagetes, and Cempaka
Heart notes: Oakmoss, Vetiver,Violet, Ambergris, Myrrh, Clove and Nutmeg
Base notes: Cedarwood, Labdanum, Vanilla and Tonka bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The quiet grace of a an ancient Buddhist temple.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BONHEUR:  majestic, calming, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BONHEUR:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Perfumer Dmitry Bortnikov has created a masterfully blended perfume that transcends layers of combined notes.  Instead, Bonheur weaves a magical spell that serenely drifts off the skin in the most beautiful way.  Bonheur is a perfume that makes you feel as if you’re on top of the world looking down with all the beauty and grandeur that this world has to offer.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Dmitry Bortnikov
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $180 for 30ml parfum extrait via Luckyscent or the Bortnikoff Perfumes website.


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Hermès 24, Faubourg

24,FaubourgIf you like to shop around and explore estate sales, you know that every once in a blue moon you’ll run across one that is truly special.  Recently, I found a sale that mentioned a large collection of perfumes, but didn’t have pictures or brand names listed.  I took a chance.  As it turns out, the woman of the house was a former sales representative for Escada and Annick Goutal so there was quite the collection.  No one at the sale was interested in the perfumes, so I snatched up a collection of 3 100 ml perfumes, a couple of fragrance brand candles and 12 mini perfumes for $90.  One of those perfumes was a full 100 ml bottle of Hermes 24, Faubourg eau de toilette.  Whereas some of the perfumes there were multiple in stock, the Hermès was the only one.  I had to snatch it up.  By the way, the next week, I noted that they moved the remaining bottles of perfumes that didn’t sell to another sale that was in walking distance from my house.  Of course I had to go back!  I managed to pick up two 125 ml tester bottles of Annick Goutal EdTs, Passion and Heure Exquise for $5 each!  How could I say no to such bargains?!

Now before I get into my review, I should note that I did purchase a bottle of 24, Faubourg EDP a couple of years ago. As much of a fan as I am of white floral perfumes, I found the eau de parfum version much to cloying and heavy for my tastes.  So buying the EdT was a gamble.  Let’s see if it payed off…

WHAT I SMELL:  24, Faubourg opens with a vibrant, bright, a rather sugared ylang ylang which quickly moves to a warmer pulsating rapturous collection of florals which are seamless in their blending.  After a short time, an ambered warmth sets base for a rounded bouquet dusted with oak moss and a spiced jasmine begins to dominate.  There’s not much progression in 24, Faubourg, but in the end, the perfume resides in a pared down “big” floral heaven.  24 Faubourg is a striking beauty that falls into the big floral category like Ysatis and 1000.  But 24 Faubourg is one of those perfumes that doesn’t play second fiddle to anyone.

From the Hermès website:

A novel composed by Maurice Roucel in 1995, 24, Faubourg is an invitation to travel, with the sun as its destination. A sparkle of white flowers in the top notes, the radiance of a floral heart enveloped in irises, woods and mystery, while vanilla and ambergris set the tone for the sillage.

PrincessGraceat50WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A woman of refinement; Princess Grace in her later years.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE 24, FAUBOURG: radiant, warm, in-control

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 24, FAUBOURG: Now Smell This, I Smell Therefore I Am, Olfactoria’s Travels

BOTTOM LINE:  Whereas the eau de parfum version of 24, Faubourg was just too heavy for me, the eau de toilette version fits just right.  I absolutely am in love with this floral beauty.  This will be a mainstay in my collection for years to come!

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre Floral
  • Nose: Maurice Roucel
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $150 for 3.3 oz. Eau de Toilette