4 bones | The Scented Hound

September 16, 2014
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

New Release: The by Kilian Addictive State of Mind Collection

INTOXICATED – WHAT I SMELL: Intoxicated opens with a boozy burnt coffee note that is sweet, yet flattened. It feels like it’s been sprinkled with dry nutmeg and it has a rather marshmallow thickness consistency about it. It makes me want to fire up my espresso machine, because this would make for a nice after dinner drink to go with a hot cup of coffee. As Intoxicated starts to develop, it becomes a bit nuttier, richer and it begins to rise and jump off the skin, growing with projection each minute. There’s a nice herbal quality that rests like a haze on top the layered fragrance and a bit of sweet and light caramel emerges giving it more dimension. As time progresses, the light booziness retreats, but the roasted coffee and nuttiness remains. After around a half and hour, a light vetiver appears, bringing just a bit of sharpness into the mix. As it keeps developing, it turns from the gourmand to a more woody creation. But the great thing about the by Kilian fragrances is that they are so supremely finished and silky smooth so that the different variations in the fragrance make the notes hard to define and pin down.

Intoxicated Notes: cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, coffee

Gourmet S’mores

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The most luxurious S’more with a lightly sweet refined cocoa’d chocolate with the finest of graham crackers. And when you’ve finished eating the lovely concoction, the warm, sweet and fired remains of the treat linger in the air.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE INTOXICATED: smooth, delicious, suave

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Spicy
Nose: Calice Becker
Classification: Unisex

LIGHT MY FIRE – WHAT I SMELL: Light My Fire opens with this dry hay like tobacco and honey. Quickly, a cumin notes comes in along with the patchouli. It’s dry and a bit sour. The honey isn’t thick, but more like a dried and crackled glaze over the hay. It’s rather comforting to me, as it’s a bit dusty too…as if the perfume has been stored in an old barn. Along with the honey, there seems to creep out a bit of a brown sugar note. There’s a tender sweetness about the fragrance that’s very muted which I find quite nice and heart-warming. After around 10 minutes, a putty note appears giving Light My Fire a bit of thickness. At this point, the initial hay that brought in the dryness begins to be filled instead with a more woody note which isn’t quite as devoid of moisture, but it’s still rather dry. Light My Fire doesn’t transform all that much, but it’s such a nice and relaxing fragrance, the kind that’s good for soothing one’s soul. Don’t get me wrong though, as relaxing as this is, there is still some power and projection behind it.

Light My Fire Notes: cumin, hay, patchouli, vetiver, honey, vanilla and tobacco

Late Day, Late Summer – Jan Schmuckal

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A late summer day, where the ground is rather dry as you lay under a big tree while the sun streams all around you.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE LIGHT MY FIRE: peaceful, contented, contemplative

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Sidonie Lancesseur
Classification: Unisex

SMOKE FOR THE SOUL – WHAT I SMELL: Smoke for the Soul opens big with this warmed eucalyptus topped by a nutty tobacco. It’s quite thick and a bit chewy and somewhat burnt around the edges. After a bit, it begins to dry and it becomes more burnt, like the sticks of wood are actually firing up on your skin. A birch note begins to appear almost as if the already flaky bark is falling off of the perfume exposing a more sharpened cannabis note that’s quite pungent and sour. The fragrance then dries out and becomes pure wood. However, the wood continues its slow burn with a slight smoky and sharp finish sitting above a vetiver base.

Smoke for the Soul Notes: eucalyptus, grapefruit, tobacco, mate, birch, cashmirwood, cannabis and cardamom

burnt twigs

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: burnt twigs

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SMOKE FOR THE SOUL: crackling, aromatic, burnt

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
Classification: Unisex

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT THE ADDICTIVE STATE OF MIND COLLECTION: Colognoisseur, The Style and Beauty Doctor

BOTTOM LINE: With the by Kilian name, you’re getting luxury not only in a scent, but also in the packaging. This new collection is no exception as each perfume comes in a case designed to look like a luxurious cigar holder. Intoxicated and Light my Fire are really smooth, refined and perfectly finished and live up to the by Kilian brand. Smoke for the Soul plays “which one of these is not like the others” with the other two. It’s nice, but it just doesn’t feel like it fits into the mix. In any case, overall, a very nice collection.

Expense: $270 for 50ml Eau de Parfum (each sold separately)

September 5, 2014
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

A Bergdorf Goodman Exclusive from Roja Parfums: Goodman’s

Since 1901, Bergdorf Goodman has been providing the utmost in quality, service and luxury to New York City on the corner of 5th Avenue and 58th Street. To celebrate this New York landmark, Master Perfumer Roja Dove was asked to create a perfume exclusively for Goodman’s the Bergdorf Goodman men’s store. Creating a perfume for such a legendary institution is no small feat. To meet the challenge, Roja Dove wanted to create a perfume, that in his words, captures the “special mix of sophistication, excitement and pure luxury” of this exclusive and iconic store.

Bergdorf Goodman – New York, NY

WHAT I SMELL: Goodman’s opens with a rich and deep bergamot and cedar, quickly followed by a spiced mandarin. The cedar retreats quickly to make room for this incredible jasmine. It’s warm and lush and it feels like you’re walking (or should I say sinking in) on deep piled carpet. The florals are heady while still maintaining a masculine edge of rounded and achingly beautiful thickness. I love my florals and this bouquet meets all my standards of what a good floral mix should be comprised of; rounded, voluminous, mixed and blended to perfection so that you can’t see distinguish one floral note from another. There’s also a rather buttery tone that the florals rest on which after around 10 minutes lightens and retreats as do the heady aspects of the florals. This makes way for a more woody timbre with the vetiver taking center stage in concert with an herbal and slightly peppery finish. Soon enough, as if a fog has started to creep in, the frankincense starts to appear very lightly from below. What started off as full on traditional floral is now taking a more exotic turn as the frankincense then becomes front and center. The woody and dry patchouli mixed with the incense renders the fragrance to an almost powdery consistency. I am amazed by the fragrance’s transformation; it feels as if you are making the descent from a temperate and fertile elevation down to a more dramatically arid zone in the space of 30 minutes. Goodman’s then takes on a more sober and formal turn as the fragrance settles into quiet dignity with a warmish patchouli and vetiver with streams of incense weaving throughout. That, combined with just an ever so slight sweetness and a bite of civet, lets you know that although the perfume is dignified, there’s still a bit of mischief that abounds.

From the Bergdorf Goodman website:

A dynamic burst of Mandarin and Bergamot creates a fresh foil for a rich bouquet of Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Neroli, and May Flower, enlivened with Cinnamon Leaves, Cinnamon, Cardamom, and Coriander, warmed by Cedarwood, Patchouli, and Vetiver, nestling on a refined, sensual base of Frankincense, Castoreum, and Civet.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin

Heart Notes: Neroli, Rose, Jasmine, Jasmine Sambac, Ylang Ylang, May Flower

Base Notes: Cinnamon Leaves, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Coriander, Cedarwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Castoreum, Civet

A Royal Ride

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An 18th century French royal carriage ride; leaving the majesty of Versailles to journey to the historically holy Avignon.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GOODMAN’S: dignified, calm, self-assured

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GOODMAN’S: I haven’t found any other reviews thus far.

BOTTOM LINE: If you look solely at the notes, the fragrance could read like many others as individual parts. However, like Bergdorf Goodman, Roja Dove has used the finest of materials to create this incredibly luxurious compliment to this grand institution of enduring style, refinement and quality. I have to admit that the floral aspects of the opening and of the heart blew me away and I wish the fragrance would have stayed there forever. Mr. Dove if you’re listening, maybe this could be the inspiration for a new exclusive Scented Hound perfume??!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $545 for 50ml parfum, exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman via the website or by directly calling Roja Parfums Bergdorf Goodman Representative, Tom Crutchfield at 212-872-2768.

Sample courtesy of Tom Crutchfield, Roja Parfums.

September 1, 2014
by The Scented Hound 6 Comments

New Release: Black Flower Mexican Vanilla and the Launch of Dame Perfumery Scottsdale

I guess it’s only fitting that on Labor Day I should write about one of the hardest working men in the fragrance industry, Jeffrey Dame. Together with his son, Cullen, they have founded Dame Perfumery Scottsdale. Jeffrey’s roots are deep within the fragrance industry. Over 35 years ago he started his perfumery career in the buying office at Neiman-Marcus in Dallas and spent a few decades in New York and Paris working in fragrance for Estee Lauder, Parfums Caron Paris and with the American fashion designers Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene to name a few. So it’s not surprising that this new venture has culminated with him combining his knowledge and love of fragrance with his love of family.

Dame Perfumery Collection of 6 Eau de Toilette Fragrances

Dame Perfumery’s Collection of 6 Eau de Toilette Fragrances

As part of the initial collection, Dame Perfumery has launched six creations for women, all of which are eau de toilettes and all of which are designed with a bright top note, a pretty floral heart and a warm sensual drydown. Just this past August, the monthly perfume subscription service Olfactif offered all six as an exclusive preview:

Mate, Heliotrope & Patchouli
Pear, Waterlily & Amber
Verbena, Freesia & Musk
Cassis, Rose & Sandalwood
Passion Fruit, Orange Blossom & Vetiver
Peach Blossom, Violet & Vanilla

Of course, I have a favorite among the group; the Cassis, Rose and Sandalwood. Who can’t resist a sparking rose and deep juicy cassis??!

What I find refreshing about these perfumes is that Jeffrey Dame’s philosophy on perfume shines through with these creations. He doesn’t abide by the thought that perfume is art. Instead, he believes that perfume is pleasure and that perfumes are meant to be worn and enjoyed and not meant to be worshipped. I can’t agree more.

And as if introducing six fragrances into the world isn’t enough to kick off the perfumery’s launch, Dame Perfumery also launched Black Flower Mexican Vanilla which is a more unisex composition and very different from the other offerings. Here’s my view on this fantastic vanilla fragrance:

Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla

WHAT I SMELL: Black Flower Mexican Vanilla opens with a vanilla and caramel almost cocoa’d opening that’s rather nutty and gourmand. It’s strange that in one sense the fragrance is dry and peppered, but then again I’ll take another sniff of my wrist and the fragrance appears to be more rich, smooth, creamy and exotic. Be it peppery and dry or smooth and creamy, the one thing that is consistent with the fragrance is that it’s vanilla richness without the sweetness. After around 10 minutes, flecks of pepper dot the fragrant landscape as the florals begin to make an appearance. The florals are pretty without becoming too feminine and as they begin to develop the fragrance becomes more radiant and the sweetness from both floral notes and vanilla make for a delightful dance. As the drydown continues, the fragrance continues to soften and retreats to a light vanilla floral dream that is dry and somewhat powdery.

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla notes: vanilla absolute with touches of lemon, grapefruit, caramel, nutmeg, gardenia, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk and tonka.

A Mexican Dream

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A Mexican dream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BLACK FLOWER MEXICAN VANILLA: smooth, woody, subdued

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLACK FLOWER MEXICAN VANILLA: The Muse in Wooden Shoes

BOTTOM LINE: Vanilla has a tendency to wear me out as it can easily become overbearing and sweet. Here, the vanilla is blended nicely with the florals so even though there is a sweetness about the perfume, it can’t be labeled as “sweet.” And for being 90 degrees today, the fragrance seems to be working, another big feat for a vanilla fragrance because I usually find they work best in cooler temperatures. Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is a Mexican beauty for sure.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Vanilla
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $65 for 50ml EdP from the Dame Perfumery Scottsdale website

Earlier, I mentioned that Dame Perfumery is a family affair. Not only is Jeffrey Dame’s son part of this endeavor, his father V. Dave Dame is Dame Perfumery’s Artist in Residence and was the creator of the artwork for Black Flower Mexican Vanilla. I believe that this family collaboration is going to be making some great waves in the industry and I look forward more to come, including the intriguing sounding Hatch New Mexico Chili fragrance that they will be launching later this year.

All of the fragrances listed above can be found on the Dame Perfumery Scottsdale website!