4 bones | The Scented Hound

April 20, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Vintage Dior Diorling

WHAT I SMELL: Dior Diorling opens green, dry, mossy and quite powdery. It has a vintage feel, but at the same time feels easily modern. I can’t tell if the top notes are somewhat lost, but the florals are incredibly well blended. They’re deep, rather beefy and they feel very structured and firm. As with Miss Dior, Diorling is pretty in a rather masculine fashion. That’s what I love about these old classics, they are allowed to be feminine without resorting to sweetness and fruit. The hyacinth and iris are the anchors here and combined with the moss they make for this powdered haze of sophisticated beauty. Then add this light punch of leather to the base and you’ve got the perfume wrapped up. There’s not a lot of development here, (although the lily of the valley pokes it head out ever now and then), but it does soften and becomes somewhat like a perfumed Angora sweater. Overall from the beginning to the end (and it lasts), you have a classic chypre at its best.

Dior Diorling Notes:

Top notes are hyacinth and bergamot; middle notes are iris, jasmine, rose and lily-of-the-valley; base notes are vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss and leather.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Peanut’s Pig-Pen. OK, to explain myself…take away the dry dusty dirt and replace with a dry dusty mossy cloud. Besides, the perfume has a very 1960’s vibe about it which was the heyday of the Peanut’s era. See it all makes sense now, right??!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DIOR DIORLING: drrrryyyy, powdered, unisex

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DIOR DIORLING: Perfume Shrine, The Black Narcissus, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE: Ridiculously expensive on eBay, I found this beauty for a great price and snatched it up. So there was a little chip on the stopper and the stopper was stuck (we perfumistas know how to conquer that!), but the perfume is divine! I don’t think it will ever live up to my love of Miss Dior, but I get giddy every time I put this on because it’s just that good!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Chypre
Nose: Paul Vacher
Classification: Unisex
Expense: Varies greatly. Review based on the parfum extrait version.

March 30, 2015
by The Scented Hound 18 Comments

New Release: Neela Vermeire Creations Pichola

WHAT I SMELL: Pichola opens with a light, soft combination of magnolia and tempered spice. It’s like a whisper that meets the back of your neck with a breath of tenderness. In a couple of minutes that whisper opens to what feels like dawn, or the rising of the sun. You can feel the perfume becoming brighter, more radiant and alive. The blending of the notes makes it difficult to distinguish individual notes, but that’s a good thing because together they paint such a beautiful picture. The florals are front and center of the perfume, but they are subdued, rather gentle and oh so pretty and graceful. After 15 minutes or so, the florals begin to grow, becoming more lush and slightly sweeter with the jasmine most pronounced along with a creamy ylang-ylang. The sandalwood provides a touch of dimension under the budding florals. As the perfume continues to grow, the creaminess expands to create a milky wrap around the florals as if it’s trying to contain the uncontainable burgeoning blossoms. I keep waiting for the florals to explode, but instead they blossom and grow large without shouting. The perfume culminates in this creamy haze of floral and lightly woody and sweet delightfulness.

From the Neela Vermeire Creations website:

Lake Pichola is the crown jewel and central focus of the princely city of Udaipur. A myriad of colourful historic, architectural and spiritual re!ections fall on this splendid water body – the sunlight and moonlight of each season bringing out the eternal and timeless beauty of Lake Pichola. Our latest fragrance captures such countless re!ections on the lake from the past to the present – showcasing the splendour of opulent and vibrant flowers, princely spices and precious woods taking us on an unforgettable and hypnotic fragrant journey. Once you have experienced the diverse and stunning beauty of these indescribable re!ections you will understand the true meaning of timeless luxury and e”ortless beauty….

TOP NOTES Cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, juniper, magnolia, neroli oil, clementine, bergamot

HEART NOTES Orange blossom absolute, rose absolute, tuberose absolute, Jasmine sambac, ylangylang

BASE NOTES Benzoin absolute, sandalwood, driftwood, vetiver from Haiti

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Daybreak. The sun, warmth and quietness opening up to a new and glorious day.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PICHOLA: reflective, jeweled, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PICHOLA: Kafkaesque, The Goodsmellas, Persolaise

BOTTOM LINE: Pichola is the quiet cousin of the fantastic Bombay Bling. Both are incredibly uplifting floral beauties and there is an unmistakable connection in their composition. But, Pichola is more restrained and subdued. It’s as if the Bombay Bling party has ended and it’s time for some down time to reflect on the excitement of the day.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
Classification: Unisex
Expense: Launching in April 2015 in the US. EU residents can place orders via the Neela Vermeire website for 205 Euros for 60ml.

Sample courtesy of Neela Vermeire Creations.

March 18, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Tableau de Parfums Miriam

WHAT I SMELL: Miriam’s opening is comprised of sweet bergamot and light aldehydes which are quickly met with warmed geranium. Immediately, Miriam feels old school with a distinctive make-up, lipstick and violet laced presence. I was expecting the opening to be lighter and more powdery. Instead, it’s a smooth almost honeyed mix of florals accentuated at first by violet, but then with rose and jasmine. Suprisingly restrained, the perfume provides an aura of self-assuredness and strength, while maintaining its femininity. Even though it feels nostalgic, there’s nothing sweet or innocent in the perfume. After around 10 minutes, a deeper projection of sandalwood and what feels like a tinge of civet, continues to bring a more woody confidence to this beautiful perfume. After 20 minutes, Miriam begins to project. The warmth of the opening, moves toward a dry and powdery mix of lavender and orris root. In fact, when sniffed, the dryness pulls the wet out of my throat and nose. In the end, you’re left with a powdered puff of violet laced haze of a perfume. And even though there’s a quiet confidence in Miriam that is all woman, there’s no messing with this in control no-nonsense beauty.

From the Tableau de Parfums website:

Miriam references the heady, diffusive fragrances of the thirties and forties. It is vintage in spirit but with a contemporary character. A fragrance constructed in the tradition of classic perfumery, Miriam is the kind of fragrance they don’t make much anymore.

Notes: bergamot, sweet orange, geranium, violet blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang, violet leaf, lavender, vanilla, orris root, sandalwood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A 1940’s Joan Crawford; in-between all woman and all out dame.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MIRIAM: nostalgic, confident, captivating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MIRIAM: Bonkers About Perfume, EauMG, Persolaise

BOTTOM LINE: The sample has been sitting on my office desk for a few days now and when I walk in the room, the fragrance lingers within the confines of the room. It reminds me of my mother when I was a child when I would walk in my parents bedroom and I could still smell the powder and the lipstick from the evening before. Miriam is like a lovely dream from the past. Recently I reviewed Chanel’s Misia which has a similar makeup vibe; Miriam is much more my cup of tea.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Aldehyde
Nose: Andy Tauer
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $165 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum and $40 for 7 ml purse spray (I love that option!)