The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Ding-Dong, Avon Calling – Happy Mother’s Day

Avon Calling

When I was young enough to be somewhat self-sufficient as a child, my mother decided to become an Avon Lady.  If I recall correctly, she didn’t become an Avon Lady until the 1970s, but I know that prior to this time she made purchases herself and her own Avon Lady used to come visit because I remember them sitting around the kitchen table having coffee and looking at the products.  Being Depression era babies and very Midwestern,  my parents were never big on luxury or glamour.  But I do recall times being very young when my mother and father would go out for an event and there was a great deal of time getting ready with hair, makeup and dressing up. Of course, this meant applying perfume as well.  Like many women, my mother had a mirrored tray on her dresser with these little jewels of perfumes.  I was fascinated by these tiny bottles with the gold top and crystal bottoms that smelled so incredible from a very early age.  I never knew what these little jeweled perfumes were until I stumbled across a listing on eBay for 5 1/8 oz. perfumes for sale…in the tiny jeweled bottles that I remember so well.  And to boot…all were unused except for 1 and all for only $17.  I have no idea which of these my mother had on her dresser, but here’s a short review of each.  I guess it all makes sense now that these perfumes which I recalled would have been Avon.  But for me and I’m sure many, Avon was never really associated with little gem perfumes, but more for their strange and befuddled decorative bottles.  In any case, let’s see if these little jewels live up to my memories…

Avon Mini Perfume

Sonnet:  Sonnet opens with a rich oriental floral spice.  It’s deep, maybe a bit powdery and incredibly dreamy.  The perfume hits the back of my throat and fills it with its intoxication.  As it dries down, the perfume becomes more woody and masculine.  The perfume is blended so wonderfully that I can’t pick out any specific notes and I wasn’t able to find any information on the original notes, but did find that the perfume was created in 1972.  Sonnet is romance and glamour all wrapped up in one perfume.  After some time, the drydown on Sonnet starts to reveal a carnation note and it then becomes very spicy.  I really love the opening, but wish it would remain a more rounded floral rather than a spiced floral.   Sonnet gets a rating of 3 bones.  It would have been higher, but the drydown get a bit too spicy and a bit soapy for my taste.  Wait, it does calm down after a long time and the spice moves to more of a cream.  Maybe I was too harsh at first…let’s give it 3.5 bones.

Miss Dior AdMoonwind:  Moonwind opens with this rather masculine edge…could this be Avon’s answer to Miss Dior?  It’s deep, woody and hay like florals are incredibly pretty…but not made solely for women, this can easily be worn by a man.  Perfume Intelligence states that Moonwind was created in 1971 and is an aldehyde woody floral.  I say it’s Miss Dior…or just call it Miss Avon.  Unfortunately, unlike Miss Dior, Moonwind starts to fall a bit flat in its’ drydown…as if something good was being sucked out of it and instead a slight vanilla was added.  Overall all though, a solid perfume at 3 bones.

Topaze:  Topaze opens soft, powdery, slightly soapy and with a big projection of aldehydes.  Where Sonnet and Moonwind were deep and mysterious, Topaze is floral on a trapeze, meaning it feels like the florals are strung out on a high wire or clothesline.  They’re bright, yet mature and pretty.  There is nothing young about Topaze, but wearing this would make an entrance a noticeable and big one. The florals are cool here and there is something a bit aloof about Topaze and a bit too much soap, but overall, it’s very classic and worthy of 3 bones.

Fragrantica actually had a posting for Topaze:

Topaze by Avon is a Floral Aldehyde fragrance for women. Topaze was launched in 1959. Top notes are aldehydes, coriander, peach, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, benzoin, civet and vetiver.

occur!

A 1960s Occur! ad. How seductive!

Occur!:  Occur! is the dirty girl in the mix and my favorite of the bunch.  There’s a preponderance of coriander that jumps up to greet you as you apply the perfume.  This is a rich, opulent and grand perfume that reminds me of medieval heavy velvet and tapestried frocks.  But as soon as I say that, the perfume begins to lighten and the rich oriental opening starts to break free to reveal a more radiant soul. Occur! is hard to describe except that this ambered beauty has a bit of beast because the civet is very noticeable in the drydown.  To my surprise, I really like Occur!.  4 bones for Occur!

From Basenotes:

Created in 1962, Occur’s top notes include aledehydes, bergamot, cardamom coriander.  Middle notes include muguet, francinsense, vetiver, myrrh, jasmin, patchouli, carnation.  Based notes include amber, leather, honey, moss, musk castoreum, vanilla civet.

Avon Bird of Paradise

Bird of Paradise:  From the sound of this perfume I was expecting a Tahitian treat of a South Seas perfume.  Instead it is an over the top; big, big, big perfume that is all gag-worthy oriental. When I first received this, I tried to scrub the perfume off, but it’s so strong that it wouldn’t abide with my wish.  So for purposes of this post, I have deemed to not put it on again.  Needless to say, Bird of Paradise is 2 bones at best and that’s probably being generous.  Created in 1969, I saw comments online that this was Avon’s answer to Cinnabar but that makes no sense because Cinnabar was created in 1978…but I could see the comparison.

Like many childhood memories, my recollection of these little crystal bottles were a bit exaggerated.  What seems like a jewel then, really is just cut glass and a metal top.  Like many Avon products, they are a facsimile of what they are trying to represent.  But that doesn’t tarnish my memories and my recollection of that mirrored tray with those incredible jewels and the scents themselves are familiar to me and evoke warm memories of my childhood.  For $17 this was a great eBay purchase and I am surprised and rather delighted that these perfumes actually have stood the test of time.  Now, all of these perfumes above are the parfum extrait versions of the fragrance.  I noticed that their were many cologne versions on eBay and I can’t speak to how those compare.  But if you’re looking for something fun at the right price you may want to check out these Avon classics.

Happy Mother’s Day!


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Dame Perfumery Desert Rose

Desert RoseWHAT I SMELL:  Desert Rose opens with a soft and delicate peach which is quickly met with a non-sweetened citrus; add to this the fact that it’s airy and semi-bright.  As it develops the perfume gains some body with an ambered base.  However, even with this body, this is one of the lightest and ethereal perfumes I have worn in a long time. And that’s a good thing.  Sometimes rose scents when added to the heat of the summer sun can overwhelm, but with this light composition you won’t have to worry about that.  Before I get too ahead of myself, the pretty Damascenia rose begins to make its way to the front.  It’s floral sweet and not candied sweet and it has a sparkling and vibrant finish to it.  The peach remains, but a lovely soft vanilla joins in to give the perfume a more rounded finish as well as creating this silky smoothness.  The perfume then moves away from being ethereal, yet it never reaches to the point of being too large.  It instead remains vanilla sweetened and silky soft and smooth (and just a tad spicy)…almost like a rose flavored egg cream.

From the Dame Perfumery website:

The composition is a blend of Turkish rose otto and Damascenia Rose with touches of peach, Sicilian lemon, Egyptian jasmine, geranium, carnation, heliotrope, sandalwood, musk, amber and vanilla.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  How can I resist… Sting’s Desert Rose.  The perfume and the song go hand in hand, pretty, ethereal, exotic and dreamily lovely.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DESERT ROSE:  bright, peach-kissed, dreamy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DESERT ROSE:  Scent of Abricots

BOTTOM LINE:  I’m not a huge fan of peach notes in a perfume, but here its nicely infused with the rose.  If you’re looking for something pretty and dreamy, Desert Rose would make for a nice addition to your summer scent wardrobe… and you can’t beat the price!  But with Damascenia rose, it’s better to be safe than sorry, so don’t over spray to ensure that the desert rose doesn’t become a desert dragon!

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $65 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum from the Dame Perfumery website

Sample courtesy of Dame Perfumery.


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New Release: Asphalt Rainbow by Charenton Macerations

Asphalt RainbowWHAT I SMELL:  Asphalt Rainbow opens with a sparkly zesty bergamot, like peppered champagne which retreats quickly and then flattens to a slightly soapy, rather milky floral.  The notes states that there are aerosols in the perfume and after 5 minutes it does feel like the perfume is sprayed through a can.  As such, the projected spray throws out the perfume and what was once soapy and milky, is now a bit gritty and rough-hewn.  There’s also a warmed hair spray effect that feels tinged with charcoal.  What’s strange about Asphalt Rainbow is that in some sense, it feels very “bathtastic.”  Maybe it’s the aerosol effect which makes it feel as if it was born in a 1950s blue tile bathroom.  On the other hand, there’s a grittiness about it that makes it go from blue tile bathroom to truck stop bathroom.  If you’re looking for your mother’s rose scent this is not it.  The rose is muted, flat and roughened.  For some reason, the perfume also reminds me a fabric store as there is a slight muslin feel to the fragrance, like it’s sheathed in bolts of the clean, yet unfinished fabric.  After around 20 minutes the rose comes to the forefront, and it’s big and powerful and much cleaner with infused musk and a light amber.  After 30 minutes, the perfume becomes much prettier, woodier and softer.  And while it is still big, it has moved from the bathroom to the garden. In the end, Asphalt Rainbow becomes demure, light and rather pretty with a very prominent clean musk.  Quite the journey if I say so myself.

Asphalt Rainbow ArtFrom the Charenton Macerations website:

Asphalt Rainbow draws inspiration from the “break the rules” attitude of global  street art: a creative world movement that teaches anything can be a canvas and anyone an artist. Specifically exploring the concepts of distortion, reappropriation, and impermanence, Asphalt Rainbow borrows from a series of masterful street art techniques to craft an olfactive love letter to the street: a roughed up rose that’s been hyper-colored, torn apart and twisted on its head, then nailed to the wall for your sniffing pleasure. The arc of the fragrance mirrors the unpredictable lifecycle of street art: a re-envisioned rose accord that distorts and morphs over time like a fragmented floral collage stretched across urban walls and alleyways; its aerosol-tinged aroma ever-fading closer to background.

Featured: Rose Absolute, Rose Fragments
Accents: Spray Paint (Aerosols), Galbanum, Lily of the Valley, Lychee, Ylang, Saffron, Magnolia, Leather, Cistus,
Background: Asphalt, Detritus, Patchouli, Wood, Amber

School BathroomWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An institutional bathroom; clean, yet slightly dirty.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ASPHALT RAINBOW: big, bold, large

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ASPHALT RAINBOW: No others found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Asphalt Rainbow is an interesting perfume.  The journey is rather fun and conceptually I love the idea.  But I love the idea more than the perfume.  However, I can tell you that the hub loves it, which says to me that this is a floral that is for those who don’t want their florals to be too feminine or too pretty.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose: Cecile Hua
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $100 for 30 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique & Apothecary