3 bones | The Scented Hound

March 13, 2017
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

New Release: Silphium by Stora Skuggan

WHAT I SMELL: Silphium goes on the skin incredibly herbal, medicinal, warm and mentholated. It really vibrates with a vaporous sheen and the perfume is incredibly reassuring without being soft and cuddly. Instead, since there is a medicinal edge it feels more like an elixir of health. As the perfume begins to settle, the herbal turns to an energized spice that is somehow flat, yet full of movement. Still rather medicinal, the perfume throws out an aura of energy which now begins to lighten with a rounded moisture fused in ginger and a slight citrus. After some time, the perfume removes the majority of the medicinal tone and lightens to a fuzzy and lightly powdered wood that albeit full of projection, feels somewhat ethereal and wispy brought on by the breath of an opaque incense. In the end, the perfume softens considerably and becomes a comfort scent…in the sense that the therapeutic aspects of the fragrance make you feel like you don’t only smell good, but the perfume is good for you.

From the Stora Skuggan website:

Silphium (probably of the genus Ferula) was a plant that grew in the area of Cyrene, present day Libya, and was widely renowned as a spice, medicinal herb and perfume ingredient throughout the empires of the classical antiquity. It was praised by Greek philosophers and writers, as well as Roman emperors and cookbook authors.

There were many attempts to cultivate Silphium, but they inevitably failed. It would only grow wild in a limited area of the north African coast. This in combination with its qualities as seasoning and medicine made Silphium the most valuable spice in the world, outshining both saffron and cinnamon. The demand for Silphium eventually became so overwhelming that it was harvested to extinction, and the taste and smell of the once greatest spice in the world was lost in time.

Our rendition of this historical plant is created by researching surviving assumed relatives of Silphium, using aromachemicals (the molecular building blocks of scents) to create an accord that we feel represents what descriptions remains. This is set against a background of ancient incense, woods and leather.

Silphium features top notes of Silphium accord and Cistus. The heart notes are Cinnamon, Black Pepper, Tobacco, Ginger, Geranium and Clove. Base notes are Frankincense, Myrrh, Cedarwood and Leather.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Medicinal cotton.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SILPHIUM: herbal, medicinal, therapeutic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SILPHIUM: None found.

BOTTOM LINE: This new release from the Stockholm Sweden based Stora Skuggan is interesting and different and I love the fact that they are creating a perfume through the re-creation of an extinct and historical plant as a central theme. And for perfume lovers who also gravitate towards incredible bottles…Silphium does the trick.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Spicy
Nose: Olle Hemmendorff and Tomas Hempel
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $140 for 30 ml eau de parfum

Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrange Boutique and Apothecary. Opinion my own.

January 23, 2017
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Rose Emois by Molinard

WHAT I SMELL: Rose Emois unfolds soft and sweet as baby’s breath with a slightly sugared bergamot and mint that is quickly met with a milky almond highlighted with the lightest of saffron. A serene floral bouquet warmed by a softened sandalwood and amber make this incredibly dreamy. The perfume is light and transparent but at the same it has a pretty powerful projection. After a few minutes, the rose begins to break out of the dreamlike haze of warmth. The rose is subdued and deep and thorny without being heavy. The sandalwood and amber anchor the perfume making the perfume feel more ambered than rose. After some more time, an oudish note is added making the perfume feel more exotic. As the perfume continues to develop, the oud note becomes more prominent and the perfume becomes more powdery, but there is a slight bite (no doubt from the oud note) that is a bit discordant. I do wish the perfume would return to the beginning, but instead, it remains in this oudish rose colored powdered haze. That’s not a bad thing, it’s just that the opening and middle phase was just so breathtakingly beautiful.

From Molinard:

Caressing scents in tender intuitions, sharing confidence for confidence … this harmonious fragrance cultivates its chosen affinities. Carved from a rose, its natural whimsicality carries it irresistibly to floral allegories … and abandons itself secretly to the enveloping waves where man and woman meet, and make no more than one …

Top notes are bergamot, mint and almond; middle notes are jasmine, rose, saffron and ylang-ylang; base notes are musk, sandalwood, amber and ylang-ylang.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A vibrant Indian tapestry full of color and infused with the exotic smells of the market.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ROSE EMOIS: dreamy, royal, serious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE EMOIS: No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE: Rose Emois is part of Molinard’s La Collection Privee. Besides the classic Habanita, you don’t hear much about Molinard. Their perfumes, albeit somewhat hard to find, are pretty and easy to wear. This is no exception.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Classification: Unisex
Expense: Approximately $180 for 100 ml eau de parfum.

December 1, 2016
by The Scented Hound 8 Comments

New Release: Aftelier Perfumes Amber Tapestry

WHAT I SMELL: The opening of Amber Tapestry hits the skin with a burst of heliotrope quickly met with a gorgeous, calming and deep mandarin. There’s a very cautious beefiness about the perfume and it radiates a rather marigold golden hue. There’s also somewhat of a gourmand feel as a cinnamon note becomes prominent in a few minutes. The perfume has movement to it, but in a way that feels like it’s rocking in a sun ladened porch swing. After a bit, the fragrance turns a bit darker and the glorious positivity in the beginning moves to the more serious. Here the perfume begins to really project and it moves to an early 1970s vibe as it reminds me of shades of brown, orange and yellow…and yes, it does remind me of a tapestry. The perfume is now dominated by spice as it continues to cradle between the gourmand and amber. The perfume is incredibly vintage…as it really takes me back to a bygone time and place. In the end, the warm yellows, oranges and browns calm down to a softened purr. Amber Tapestry is the comfort you need for those days when it’s cold, damp and rainy outside.

From the Aftelier Perfumes website:

Amber Tapestry is an Oriental Amber perfume evocative of vintage perfumes where the various amber facets are woven together like a golden tapestry. Shot through with other textures and colors, it wraps around you like sumptuous warm cashmere.

Top: heliotropin, yellow mandarin.
Heart: jasmine grandiflorum, jasmine sambac, pear, cinnamon.
Base: ambreine, labdanum, maltol, benzoin, castoreum, ambergris, coumarin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The most famous modern-day tapestry of all….Carole King’s 1971 Tapestry album.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AMBER TAPESTRY: vintage, heady, beefy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBER TAPESTRY: Now Smell This, I Scent You a Day

BOTTOM LINE: Amber Tapestry is a great segue from the warmth of the summer to the winter cold. Wearing it is just the layer of golden fabric that you need to keep you warm and cozy.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Mandy Aftel
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $180 for 30 ml eau de parfum. Also available in parfum extrait.

*Sample courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes. Opinion my own.