Mona di Orio | The Scented Hound

June 27, 2016
by The Scented Hound 13 Comments

New Release: Mona di Orio Bohea Bohème

WHAT I SMELL: Bohea Bohème initially sings with a beautiful leathered bergamot covered in a swath of cardamom, with hints of sweetness and brown sugared florals. Incredibly exotic and lightly warmed, the perfume pulls you in and holds you captive as soon as it touches your skin. After a few minutes, the perfume adopts of light creaminess and the sugared flakes turn more to a muted lotion. There’s a haze that emanates from the cream, like smoked incense. There’s also a tea note that emerges, but instead of dominating the perfume with a watery thin high pitch, the tea is rooted and thickened as if it’s made up of a reduction of warmed tea leaves in a bottom of a cup. As the perfume continues to deepen, it seems to develop as if its a sheet that is unfurled and a dreamy sandalwood takes hold as the perfume seems to darken in color and depth. Bohea Bohème ends its journey quietly with a radiant breath that’s softly spiced and completely exotic.

From the Mona di Orio website:

Bohea Bohème captures the smoldering delicacy of the distinctive tea cultivated in the Wuyi Mountains of China. The precious Bohea Tea, fumed with pinewood, is prized for its complex aroma and rich character.

Notes: Italian Bergamot, Cardamom Absolute, Florentine Iris, Blue Chamomile, Poplar Bud Absolute, Fir Balsam Fraction, Boxtree absolute, Geranium Absolute, Black tea oil, Smoked Juniper, Oakwood absolute, Sandalwood India, Beeswax Absolute, Bay leaf Absolute.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A snake in the most beautiful sense of being…the perfume doesn’t develop as much as it slowly glides through the most subtle of movements revealing small nuances as it wraps itself around the wood and green.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BOHEA BOHÈME: gorgeous, mysterious, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BOHEA BOHÈME: CaFleureBon, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: When I found out that the new Mona di Orio perfume was tea based I have to say that I was not excited as tea based perfumes are one of my least favorite genres. However, Bohea Bohème broke the mold for me…it’s absolutely breathtaking in its originality and the tea note is just one amongst all the notes that blends seamlessly to create this skin hugging mystery. Perfumer Fredrik Dalman has created something very special here.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
Nose: Fredrik Dalman
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 75 ml eau de parfum

July 20, 2015
by The Scented Hound 12 Comments

Mona di Orio Nuit Noire

WHAT I SMELL: Nuit Noire opens with a plasticined orange, it’s slightly bitter and sour and rather animalic (to be honest, there’s a skankiness that is quite unexpected). Given the opening, I would think that the perfume would be heavy and thick. Instead, the perfume feels light and airy, albeit it incredibly potent. Now don’t get me wrong, I like it when a perfume has a bit of a funky edge as long as it doesn’t dominate. And after around 10 minutes or so, the funk, although still present, makes way for a warmed mix of spice and a light creaminess. The projection is low which makes the perfume feel mysterious and rather forbidden. The transition of the soured orange to more of a flattened musk brings a more evened edge to the perfume and after around 30 minutes the tuberose melds with the orange blossom which helps to soften the perfume even further. In the end, Nuit Noire is a sultry and sexy exotic creamy floral with just the right amount of naughty edginess.

From the Mona di Orio website:

Nuit Noire elicits the steaming sensuality of a dark, sultry night in North Africa, exotic, spicy, and animalic. A strikingly carnal affair, the raw energy and heat at the start rises from floral notes colliding with woods, spices and leather, but as it is with lovers, this sophisticated floriental dries down richly intimate into a velvety seduction of spices.

The honeyed floral sweetness of orange blossom, intense tuberose, and robust, spicy cardamom seduce each other and tease for dominance. The indolic quality of the orange blossom and tuberose pulses with a ripe lushness. Brighter notes of ginger and oranges arrive on the hot wind of this vibrant souk and bring with it an intense accord of incense, spices and woods from frankincense, cinnamon, cloves and cedar and sandalwood.

Notes of animalistic musk, comforting leather, vanilla-sweet tonka and warm resinous amber develop into a creamy, velvet intoxication. This primal nocturnal journey becomes darker and spicier.

Notes: Orange flower, cardamom, ginger, orange, frankincense, cinnamon, tuberose, sandalwood, clove, cedarwood, amber, leather, musk, tonka.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A 1960s supermodel Jean Shrimpton.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NUIT NOIRE: mysterious, sensual, exotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT NOIRE: CaFleureBon, The Sounds of Scent, The Black Narcissus

BOTTOM LINE: There’s something about orange blossom that has a 1960s connection to me. As modern Nuit Noire is, to me, there’s a bit of vintage vibe to the perfume. Modern or vintage, Nuit Noire’s perfumed ride goes from the wild to the absolute sublime.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Mona di Orio
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $195 for 75 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.

September 23, 2013
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Les Nombres d’Or Rose Etoile de Hollande by Mona Di Orio

WHAT I SMELL: Rose Etoile de Hollande opens with a bright peach layered upon aldehydes, which is then quickly followed a disconcerting clove note. What opens and pretty, soon becomes strange and sour and somewhat biting. Thankfully the rose steps out a bit which helps to soften the clove, but there remains a sharpness that I am hoping will dissipate. After around 15 minutes or so, the rose retreats and the peach once again makes it to front and center. The peach is tangy and bright. I wouldn’t say it’s juicy, but it does have a warmth about it which cuts the sharpness experienced from the first 15 minutes. This is strange. Where’s the rose? All I get is peach and more peach. More strange is that another 15 minutes it seems like I am back to the beginning with the sharpness that I experienced earlier and a bit more rose than all the peach. After a lengthy dry down, Rose Etoile de Hollande becomes slightly woody and much softer with hints of heliotrope. And after even a few more hours, you’ll notice a very light smoky incense leather added to the mix. Rose Etoile de Hollande overall is rather pretty and comforting, but it’s all peach and little to no rose. Surprisingly, for a Mona di Orio fragrance, Rose Etoile de Hollande sits close to the skin and is rather light in its projection. Overall, it’s a beautiful fragrance in the end. I just wish there was a little more rose and a little less peach.

Top notes are aldehydes, white peach and bergamot; middle notes are rose, cloves and geranium; base notes are leather, patchouli, cedar, heliotrope, vanilla, benzoin, amber and peru balsam.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: peaches

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE: peachy, bright, semi-sharp

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE ETOILE DE HOLLANDE: Perfume-Smellin Things, Olfactoria’s Travels, Cafleurebon

BOTTOM LINE: Rose Etoile de Hollande is perplexing to me. I really want to like it, but something is holding me back. I think it’s the peach. It’s just a bit too dominant for my tastes. However, if you love a good peach note, I can see how this could be wonderful. It’s no Mitsouko, but it is nice.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Mona di Orio
Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
Expense: $230 for 100ml EdP