The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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A Perfume Made for Valentine’s Day: Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

BaccaratRouge

WHAT I SMELL:  Baccarat Rouge 540 opens with a striking warm and luxurious jasmine that feels soaked and saturated with saffron.  It’s heady, exotic, spicy and mysterious.  It’s also incredibly sexy and erotic.  There’s a very slight incense and smoke that feels like an extinguished candle that moves off the skin.  And the perfume itself seems to live a couple of inches off of the body.  After some time, a woody base which was there all along, comes more to the forefront, with the radiant jasmine and saffron still pulsating.  As the perfume continues to develop, the perfume becomes more of an ambered spice.  In the end, the fragrance evens itself out and your left with a nicely spiced and lightly sweetened cedar and amber perfume that lingers with the memory of the passionate flame that burned when the perfume first hit the skin.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

Luminous and sophisticated, Baccarat Rouge 540 lays on the skin like an amber, floral and woody breeze. A poetic alchemy. A graphic and highly condensed signature.

Notes:  Jasmine, Saffron, Cedar wood, Ambergris

MarilynRedVelvet

Marilyn Red Velvet, 1949

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A sexy and erotic boudoir scent.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BACCARAT ROUGE 540:  lustful, erotic, sexy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BACCARAT ROUGE 540:  No reviews to be found outside comments on Fragrantica.

BOTTOM LINE:  Baccarat Rouge 540 is a collaboration between Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Baccarat, to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the iconic crystal house.  As such, I was expecting a big, bold and proper perfume.  Instead, I found the perfume to be highly sensual, and erotic…which makes this the perfect perfume to tempt your Valentine with.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Francis Kurkdjian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $300 for 70 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary


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Ex Nihilo Venenum Kiss

Venenum Kiss

WHAT I SMELL:  Venenum Kiss (poison kiss) opens with a saffron laden ripened fruit.  The perfume is fleshy and thick, and it feels like fruit that’s ready to fall off the limb of a tree with the weight of the rotting juice.  That’s not a bad thing, it’s just very narcotic and rather fermented.  Or in other words, it is forbidden-fruit in the best sense of the word.  Overall, the perfume is warm, radiant and seductive.  And as the perfume develops, the rose and the sandalwood come forward with a soured and sharpened melding of forces.  What once was more seductive and fruited, is now more of a poisoned arrow; still beautiful and seductive, but it feels more deadly.  As the perfume continues to morph, the sharpened edges soften, but not by much as the vanilla base continues to provide a sweetened, oudish bounty of menace.  And in the end, it’s all topped off with a bit of incense, making it all so very seductive.

From the Ex Nihilo website:

VENENUM KISS, a sensual and sophisticated liquor with hints of candied apricot and vanilla.

The strong and intense feel of an electric night in the Orient…
The women are wearing their evening perfume, in their wakes, a veritable storm of scents.
Wherever you go at night, you succumb to this same hypnotic smell.

TOP:  Neroli, Saffron, Nutmeg

HEART:  Rose absolute, Davana, Amber

BASE:  Vanilla, Styrax, Sandalwood

sin of desireWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The sin of desire.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VENENUM KISS:  sinful, dangerous, fleshy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VENENUM KISS: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Venenum Kiss is named perfectly.  The perfume is decadent, poisonous and it feels predatory and rather deadly.  It also reminds me a bit of Armani Prive’ Cuir Noir, except that Venenum Kiss feels a lot more dangerous and over the top.  Venenum Kiss is NOT an office scent and it would have to be worn on just the right occasion.  Perfect when you want to bring out your deviled horns.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental
  • Nose: Quentin Bisch
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum.

Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.


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Vanille Charnelle by Les Absolus d’ Annick Goutal

Vanille CharnelleWHAT I SMELL:  Vanille Charnelle opens with a sparkling pepper which is soon met with a vanilla gourmand rather almond-ish ylang-ylang.  It’s sweet without being sugary and it smells like a baking rack full of cooling almond cookies.  But there’s a bit of sour from either the ylang-ylang or the tonka that keeps the perfume from being too confectionary.  The opening had me a bit worried that the perfume was going to rise up and scream.   But thankfully, after a few minutes the fragrance begins to contain itself.  The vetiver begins to come forward and with it comes a welcomed reedy woodiness that begins to dry out the vanilla.  But even as it continues to dry out, the vanilla almond is front and center; albeit less sugared.  After some time, the perfume journeys into a more floral realm and moves from gourmand to oriental.  It really is beautiful in a richly opulent and exotic way.  The notes are beefy and amped up and what was turning dry becomes ripened.  Vanille Charnelle then moves to a decaying spiced floral that’s wrapped up in vanilla.

Top notes are ylang-ylang and pepper; middle notes are vanilla, tonka bean and white musk; base notes are vanilla absolute and vetiver.

AnnieHallWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  There’s something very nostalgic and 1970s about this perfume…very Annie Hall.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VANILLE CHARNELLE: charming, noticable, sentimental

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VANILLE CHARNELLE:  Fashion for Lunch, Perfume Shrine, Alice in Beautyland

BOTTOM LINE:  Vanille Charnelle is a wonderfully spiced floral vanilla perfume the makes me want to reach for my tweed jacket.  A little of the perfume goes a long way, so when spritzing, do sparingly.  

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $280 for 75 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.