review | The Scented Hound

August 1, 2016
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

Issara by Parfums Dusita

WHAT I SMELL: Issara’s opening is warm and mysterious focusing around a heavenly dreamlike pine and cedar. It also feels gently masculine along with a sense of confidence and security. In a short while, there’s a light barber shop vibe that emerges, like hair tonic. This helps to make the perfume feel neat and trimmed without feeling stuffy. As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a buzzing and humming radiance that moves the perfume from the barber shop to the more herbal topped with just a hint of flattened booziness. There’s a consistent green that sits at the base, but more of a forest vs. a floral green. I find at this point that there’s a real beefiness to the fragrance. But as soon as I say that, out bursts a more sparkling pine tinged with a light sugared amber and honeyed tobacco. Here the perfume resides in the most perfect of states for a lengthy period until a light musk is added to the mix which doesn’t detract from the overall state of grace. Where other perfumes lose their sweet spot at the heart, Issara keeps on giving throughout. Absolutely wonderful.

From the Parfums Dusita website:

A one of a kind fresh Fougère fragrance for the free and independent spirit – the scent with a sense for inner freedom. A fabulous perfume evoking fresh summer mornings, lush green fields, an invigorating breeze blowing through the pines …

At the Top: Brisk, fresh green Pine stirs the senses and blends joyfully with subtle, soft herbal notes for a walk in nature!

The Heart : A rousing Coumarin accord delivers the pure country-fresh fragrance of new-mown hay, with rich balsamic notes of the forest from Vertiver Bourbon, and the intimately mellow scent of Sylvester Pine Leaf.

Base Notes : Played by a trio of spontaneous, earthy aromas — magical Musk, a woody Oakmoss and an extremely rare, rich natural Ambergris

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The perfume for the Millenial man. It’s a traditional male scent with a modern and softer edge. It could easily be worn at the office (buttoned up), the virtual office (buttoned down), a night out with the boys or at the grocery store with the kids.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ISSARA: easy, comfortable, nod-to-nostalgia

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ISSARA: Megan in Saint Maxime, Kafkaesque, The Scented Apprentice

BOTTOM LINE: I am typically a bit skeptical when I keep hearing raves about new perfumes that seem to sweep through the various perfume groups on Facebook and other sites; but Parfums Dusita with its first trio of debut perfumes really delivers on all fronts. Melodie de L’Amour is a beautiful deep and narcotic white floral that is sensuality in a bottle and Ouhd Infini restores my faith in the use of oud which has been so completely overdone in the last couple of years. I’m having a hard time deciding which one of these three is the true masterpiece in the collection. Maybe they all are?!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Pissara Umavijani
Classification: Unisex but leans masculine
Expense: $295 Euros (approximately $330 US) for 50 ml parfum extrait

July 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Ex Nihilo Sweet Morphine

WHAT I SMELL: Sweet Morphine makes good on its promise as being addictive as it opens sweet, soft, gentle and powdery with a feeling of spun cotton candy without the confectionaried sugar. Lilac is listed as the top note, but I rarely get lilac out of the perfume, but instead a powdered and pretty iris surrounded by fringes of succulent green. After a few minutes, the light opening (which almost begs for you to apply more on because you believe it’s going to disappear) makes way for a vanilla laced iris and mimosa floral that moves from demure and softly spun to a much rounder and slightly thickened and slightly creamy candied state. The perfume then assumes a woody based, but resting on top of the wood remains the sweet and lightly peachy and powdered floral that makes this the addictive morphine it’s named after.

From the Ex Nihilo website:

SWEET MORPHINE, the embodiment of a self assumed but ambivalent femininity, at once delicate yet lascivious.

It’s floral bloom melts on the skin with a dark and addictive woody vanilla background.

A subtle bouquet tenderly perverted by a very captivating carnal lightness.

Notes:

Top – Lilac

Heart – Iris

Base – Wood Accord, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A sexy (not slutty) nurse. I’m ready for my shot of sweet morphine!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SWEET MORPHINE: current, uncomplicated, accessible

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SWEET MORPHINE: Colognoisseur, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sweet Morphine has a very modern sensibility and is incredibly delicious for a non-gourmand fragrance. Every time I wear this perfume it morphs just a little different each time; sometimes it’s a bit sweeter, sometimes it’s more demure, but it is always just the right amount of sexy.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $225 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 5, 2016
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

New Release: L’Atessa by Masque Milano

WHAT I SMELL: L’Attesa opens with a flattened bergamot with a slightly soured neroli that feels waxy, slightly yeasty and thickened like a styrofoam cushion. After a short time, a faint iris begins to appear, floating in a thin layer under the rest of the perfume. Soon the iris begins to grow and expand as it takes center stage. This is a warmed iris and a rather creamy one at that. The iris is soon met with a melding of other florals and the perfume starts to feel as if it’s a warmed scarf wrapped around the neck. The perfume radiates, but it’s very subdued and incredibly comforting. After around 10 minutes, a peppered suede wraps itself over the florals. It’s smooth and sensual and as it continues to develop the creaminess moves to a powder and the perfume pulls out all moisture. At this time, there’s a lightly sweetened powdered lipstick edge to the perfume which I really like. Eventually, the perfume settles in this powdered projection over a smooth and hazy slightly soured sandalwood.

From the Masque Milano website:

Act III Scene One

All is set for the rendezvous.

The soft lights seem to fondle the wrinkled sound of the old vinyl disc, and play hide-and-seek in the warm embrace of the jazz singer’s voice. The wide french-window is opened on the terrace. Outside, only the cicadas shrill drowning and the warm summer breeze. On the tea-table, a nosegay of freshly plucked flowers, flooding the room with a cocktail of smells and a bright colour palette. You uncork a champagne bottle and fill the two flutes. The unmistakable flavour of yeast hovers in the air. You settle into the couch, to enjoy this moment, and take a good look around – every single detail is simply perfect. You then close your eyes, breathe deeply, listen to the sound of her steps on the stairs. Can’t help smiling. You wish these moments would never end. There comes a knock on the door.

Head notes: Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne accord

Heart notes: Italian Iris abs., Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose abs., Ylang Ylang Madagascar

Base notes: Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather accord

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful, graceful and majestic Lippizan Stallion.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’ATTESA: dramatic, unique, passionate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’ATTESA: Kafkaesque, Megan in Sainte Maxime, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: L’Attesa unfolds in he most beautiful manner. It’s exquisite in its blending of the warmed iris and florals. My one wish is that it would have remained in the middle state of the creamy florals for the remainder of the perfume. However, that doesn’t distract from the perfume which is wonderfully different and unique. Also, kudos to Masque Milano for their new bottles which easily match the perfume in terms of beauty.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Luca Maffei
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 35 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Masque Milano. Opinion my own.