WHAT I SMELL: Sandor 70’s completes a kick-start with a quick blast of bergamot that soon melds into a wonderfully warm floral suede. The florals then move to the more herbal with a clary sage note that is front and center. The perfume is smooth and incredibly engaging. Neither feminine nor masculine, the perfume defies a label. As the perfume continues to develop, it really begins to project and a dry woody timbre pushes out a light powder. Continuing on, a smoky note appears along with a dry vetiver, but as soon as I write that, the dryness makes way for a buttery vanilla. Here, the perfume is simply sublime as it fills the air with a rich, sophisticated suede that feels like it’s coming from a well of nature. It’s not dirty, nor heavy, instead, the perfume feels earthy and grounded and nostalgic. As it continues to unfold, the tobacco and the leather mix in a swirl of wafting smoke. Here, the dirt from the cobblestone streets meet the soles of the well-worn shoes that walk them.
inspiration: “At the crest of upper Barcelona once a place to see and be seen, an iconic bar where the smoke of cigars flirted with the aristocratic leather armchairs…”
top notes – Suede Accord, Italian bergamot, Vintage Jasmin absolute, Chinese osmanthus absolute, Bulgarian rose essence
mid notes – Tobacco Accord, Clary sage absolute, Virginian cedar wood, Peru balsam, Mexican vanilla extract
base notes – Spanish leather accord, Patchouli essence, Vetyver essence, Ethiopian frankincense extract, Oak moss absolute
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Your favorite pair of well-worn leather/suede sandals. So comfortable, like an old friend.
THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SANDOR 70’s: vintage, careworn, comfortable
BOTTOM LINE: Part of the new Black Collection, Sandor 70’s is my favorite among the three perfumes in the line. Here, the nod to nostalgia is done perfectly and makes this a leather perfume that’s perfect for those who don’t like their leather over the top.
WHAT I SMELL: Habanita has a dramatic opening that is glowingly sweetened, with a blast of fruit followed quickly by a warming floral mix that is highlighted by lilac and rose. The perfume is so deliciously inviting as it seems to envelops the wearer. Habanita has a sweet edge to it, but it’s not a perfume that I would categorize as sweet. Maybe because as it develops the dryness of the oakmoss, the fresh tobacco and sheen of leather tone down the higher pitched notes. As the perfume settles down, the various notes even out creating this incredible balance between the spice, florals and woody notes. Habanita is sexy without being dangerous, but it draws you in making you want more.
1921 – Habanita was born in the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. With trailblazing spirit, Molinard revolutionized perfume codes, creating the first women’s Oriental fragrance featuring vetiver, an essence hitherto reserved for men. From perfume extract to the essence of the femme fatale, Habanita’s innovative style was eagerly embraced by the garçonnes- France’s flappers – and soon became Molinard’s runaway success and an icon in the history of French perfume.
Top notes are orange blossom, raspberry, peach and bergamot; middle notes are lilac, orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are leather, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss and cedar.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Cyd Charisse
THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HABANITA: whirling, energetic, dynamic
I often wondered if being a perfumer only requires a purely scientific skill, like that of a chemist; or if a perfumer holds an innate ability or talent that can be developed and nourished. I have seen quite of few upstart perfumers who begin their journey with a love of perfume, who then decide to create their own perfumes which then turn out to smell exactly like a scientific experiment; an incongruous mix of ingredients with an end result of a perfume that smells like it was conceived in a lab. That makes me wonder if being a perfumer requires an ability that can’t be measured by science, but of which comes from within; like an artist.
I had heard a great deal of buzz about a perfumer from Britain who had created some attars that were unique and beautiful. Kafkaesque had written much about perfumer Sultan Pasha and his creations and I have seen many exchanges on the perfume feeds in Facebook. Always wary of trends, I didn’t rush out to find out more about these attars. And I have to admit, when I hear the word “attar,” I automatically think of heavy ouds. The wonderful Esperanza introduced me to Sultan Pasha and I will be the first to admit that this “trend” is well deserved. I received a sampling of 27 of his attars…with not one in the 27 being anything but incredible. These perfumes have a soul and it makes me believe that you can’t just be a chemist to create incredible perfumes, you have to a god given talent.
Of course, with 27 perfumes, I can’t sing praise on each of them, but will speak to two of my favorites:
Aurum d’Anghkhor
WHAT I SMELL: Aurum d’Anghkhor goes on my skin with a deep, warm honey and cream, that unfolds with a ripe rose. It’s so beautifully weighted and almost gourmand. In short time, an orange blossom, tobacco honey seems to swirl around the rose, which has become a bit decayed with a slight hay like consistency. The rose is incredibly contained, as it feels like it could burst brightly at any minute, but instead the surrounding notes keep it under guard in the most beautiful prison. The perfume remains captured in this timeless state for quite some time where the rose, warmed and rapturous, is wrapped in a cocoon of labdanum and the purest sandalwood. Aurum d’Anghkhor isn’t a carefree rose, instead, there’s something rather melancholic about it as if it holds an incredible secret. As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to grow and expand and what was melancholic is now grand and majestic. Still controlled, the perfume starts to emit this confident golden radiance as if projected like rays from the sun.
Top Notes: Saffron Oil, Jasminum Auriculatum absolute, Persian Rose Otto
Base Notes: EnsarOud’s Encens D’Angkhor, Beeswax, Hand Macerated Ambergris, Hand Made Shamama(aged sandalwood, 30yr old patchouli, henna, labdanum, Siamese benzoin, musk) raw Persian and Spanish Saffron Strands maceration, Siamese benzoin resinoid, Labdanum, tobacco absolute and Mysore sandalwood
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The enchanted rose from Beauty and the Beast; kept as a beautiful prisoner until love can set it free.
THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE AURUM D’ANGHKHOR: knowing, mysterious, careworn
WHAT I SMELL: When Irisoir first goes on my skin it feels as if it’s devouring me with its warm and buttery floral cream. The perfume feels like the most exquisite elixir worthy of any princess or queen. I can envision a small bowl of this pure heaven being rubbed all over the living deity. I’m not going to try to pick apart the notes of this magnificent beauty because doing so would be futile and would not provide any justice to it. Suffice it to say, this perfume has bewitched me. When I think of iris, I tend to think “cool” and “aloof.” Here, mixed with other florals it’s warm and caressing. As the perfume continues to develop it begins to dry and the buttery opening moves to a more deep and radiant amber and sandalwood. There’s also a slight medicinal smell, which may be the mimosa. But don’t worry, this is one medicine you will have no problem taking. Beyond gorgeous.
Top Notes: Iris absolute, violet absolute, heliotrope, lilac, mimosa, peach,
Middle Notes: Orris Pallida butter, carnation absolute, Jasmine grandiflorum absolute, Persian rose Otto, violet leaf absolute,
Base Notes: White Ambergris, mimosa absolute,Tonka absolute, sandalwood Mysore, Cedar, Haitian Vetiver, Orris Pallida butter
“Irisoir is my ode, my homage to iris of the yesteryear, from my favourite period of European art and culture… La Belle Epoque.
From the outset, one is greeted with the rooty notes of the finest Florentine iris and violet. Slowly revealing a honeyed fruity woody core with a deft touch of spice, just to tease ones senses with something extraordinary rather than the mundane and lacklustre examples of this genre that one is accustomed to.
This is a composition that even took me by total surprise as it revealed countless facets of the usually shy and timid iris, and now you shall be able to experience them with me! Be prepared for a journey back in time…” – Sultan Pasha
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Irisoir is less Belle Epoque to me, but instead it makes me think of when the pharaoh’s daughter found baby Moses in the bulrushes. She is beautiful, warm and comforting, yet very regal and royal. The sun and earth shine brightly on the baby Moses and the royal princess.
THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE IRISOIR: ancient, majestic, other-wordly
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRISOIR: None to be found.
BOTTOM LINE: It’s clear that Sultan Pasha has an incredible gift for perfumery. These creations are beyond spectacular and solidify my thoughts on perfumery as an art form. As these are attars, a little goes a long way, but the way these beauties unfold is a magnificent experience and one that I can say that I was lucky enough to witness. Beyond the two perfumes, some of my other favorites in the collection are Thebes 1 and Encens Chypre. Trust me, there’s something for everyone in this collection.
WHAT I SMELL: Sandor 70’s completes a kick-start with a quick blast of bergamot that soon melds into a wonderfully warm floral suede. The florals then move to the more herbal with a clary sage note that is front and center. The perfume is smooth and incredibly engaging. Neither feminine nor masculine, the perfume defies a label. As the perfume continues to develop, it really begins to project and a dry woody timbre pushes out a light powder. Continuing on, a smoky note appears along with a dry vetiver, but as soon as I write that, the dryness makes way for a buttery vanilla. Here, the perfume is simply sublime as it fills the air with a rich, sophisticated suede that feels like it’s coming from a well of nature. It’s not dirty, nor heavy, instead, the perfume feels earthy and grounded and nostalgic. As it continues to unfold, the tobacco and the leather mix in a swirl of wafting smoke. Here, the dirt from the cobblestone streets meet the soles of the well-worn shoes that walk them.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Your favorite pair of well-worn leather/suede sandals. So comfortable, like an old friend.
The Scented Hound 