parfum | The Scented Hound

March 9, 2017
by The Scented Hound 13 Comments

New Release: silencethesea by strangelove nyc

WHAT I SMELL: silencethesea opens salty and green, like seaweed hitting the shore of the beach; while at the same time it feels windswept and incredibly joyous. The perfume begins to warm as if the sun begins to shine in the late morning as the day comes to life. A sun-kissed and earthy floral emerges as if sitting right off the beach in the warmed protected area of the dune. The perfume becomes somewhat heady with the beefy florals that are silken and smooth. But before silencethesea gets too beefy, the perfume retreats and deepens with a light oud emitting from beneath the florals. This gives the perfume a bit of mystery and exoticness. After quite some time, the perfume settles into a very comfortable lightly sweetened oud with hints of candied white truffle and a light leather that hugs the skin that leaves you with your own personal secret story.

From strangelove nyc:

The fragrance is a complex blend based on the musky mysterious allure of pure ambergris, the rich warmth of rare oudh, a provocative whiff of white truffle, and a splash of salty jasmine deepened with earthy tuberose.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Warmed flowers among the sand dunes.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SILENCETHESEA: contemplative, warmed, reassuring

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SILENCETHESEA: Megan in Saint Maxime

BOTTOM LINE: silencethesea, one of three perfumes developed by Elizabeth Gaynes in partnership with supermodel Helena Christensen and perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, is my favorite in the line, although all three perfumes are distinct, incredibly unique and sublimely intimate. With silencethesea, a small dab of the perfume oil will transport you to your own personal private beach retreat.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Aquatic
Nose: Christophe Laudamiel
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $55 for 1.25 ml perfume oil or $475 for 50ml eau de parfum (review based on the perfume oil). Available at Bergdorf Goodman or via the strangelove nyc website.

Sample provided by strangelove nyc. Opinion my own.

March 6, 2017
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

New Release: Sandor 70’s by Carner Barcelona

WHAT I SMELL: Sandor 70’s completes a kick-start with a quick blast of bergamot that soon melds into a wonderfully warm floral suede. The florals then move to the more herbal with a clary sage note that is front and center. The perfume is smooth and incredibly engaging. Neither feminine nor masculine, the perfume defies a label. As the perfume continues to develop, it really begins to project and a dry woody timbre pushes out a light powder. Continuing on, a smoky note appears along with a dry vetiver, but as soon as I write that, the dryness makes way for a buttery vanilla. Here, the perfume is simply sublime as it fills the air with a rich, sophisticated suede that feels like it’s coming from a well of nature. It’s not dirty, nor heavy, instead, the perfume feels earthy and grounded and nostalgic. As it continues to unfold, the tobacco and the leather mix in a swirl of wafting smoke. Here, the dirt from the cobblestone streets meet the soles of the well-worn shoes that walk them.

From the Carner Barcelona website:

inspiration: “At the crest of upper Barcelona once a place to see and be seen, an iconic bar where the smoke of cigars flirted with the aristocratic leather armchairs…”

top notes – Suede Accord, Italian bergamot, Vintage Jasmin absolute, Chinese osmanthus absolute, Bulgarian rose essence

mid notes – Tobacco Accord, Clary sage absolute, Virginian cedar wood, Peru balsam, Mexican vanilla extract

base notes – Spanish leather accord, Patchouli essence, Vetyver essence, Ethiopian frankincense extract, Oak moss absolute

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Your favorite pair of well-worn leather/suede sandals. So comfortable, like an old friend.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SANDOR 70’s: vintage, careworn, comfortable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SANDOR 70’s: Fragrance Daily

BOTTOM LINE: Part of the new Black Collection, Sandor 70’s is my favorite among the three perfumes in the line. Here, the nod to nostalgia is done perfectly and makes this a leather perfume that’s perfect for those who don’t like their leather over the top.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Leather
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $220 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily.

February 27, 2017
by The Scented Hound 17 Comments

Vintage Habanita by Molinard

WHAT I SMELL: Habanita has a dramatic opening that is glowingly sweetened, with a blast of fruit followed quickly by a warming floral mix that is highlighted by lilac and rose. The perfume is so deliciously inviting as it seems to envelops the wearer. Habanita has a sweet edge to it, but it’s not a perfume that I would categorize as sweet. Maybe because as it develops the dryness of the oakmoss, the fresh tobacco and sheen of leather tone down the higher pitched notes. As the perfume settles down, the various notes even out creating this incredible balance between the spice, florals and woody notes. Habanita is sexy without being dangerous, but it draws you in making you want more.

From the Molinard website:

1921 – Habanita was born in the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. With trailblazing spirit, Molinard revolutionized perfume codes, creating the first women’s Oriental fragrance featuring vetiver, an essence hitherto reserved for men. From perfume extract to the essence of the femme fatale, Habanita’s innovative style was eagerly embraced by the garçonnes- France’s flappers – and soon became Molinard’s runaway success and an icon in the history of French perfume.

Top notes are orange blossom, raspberry, peach and bergamot; middle notes are lilac, orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang and rose; base notes are leather, amber, musk, benzoin, vanilla, oakmoss and cedar.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Cyd Charisse

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HABANITA: whirling, energetic, dynamic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HABANITA: Fragrance Daily, Yesterday’s Perfume, Grain de Musc

BOTTOM LINE: Habanita is one of a kind. It’s the kind of perfume that I crave. Unique, beautiful, radiant…I can’t imagine not owning a bottle.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Classification: To me this is perfectly unisex
Expense: Review based on the vintage parfum extrait version. Prices vary on eBay, etc.