The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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The Good, Bad and …Confused?!

THE GOOD:

It was a lovely Father’s Day weekend here in Washington DC.  The weather was incredible, just perfect for being outdoors, grilling, etc. It was such a nice weekend that I can tell that you I have found a new love.  No, I’m not cheating on my husband.  This new love is By Kilian’s Rose Oud.  I received some samples of Rose Oud upon my purchase of my other love, Incense Oud.  I’m happy to say that I finally had the chance to really wear this beauty.  What I love about this fragrance is that it’s understated and tasteful with a beefy richness that I have found few fragrances to have.

Rose Oud goes on boozy and with a blast of saffron and rose.  There is almost a plastic and artificial rubbery sensation to the scent at the beginning.  That sensation remains there throughout, however, it’s not as prominent as in the beginning and it’s not something that is disagreeable.  Rose Oud doesn’t transform much after the initial few minutes.  As it stands, the rose remains on top a long with a slight leather that sits below (when I say slight, it’s almost not recognizable).  There is something weighty about Rose Oud.  It feels substantial.  It almost gives you the feeling that you are wearing a garland of large and heavy fragrant roses around your neck.  It’s truly intoxicating, luxurious and perfect for a man.  Perfect, because there is nothing sweet about this rose.  It’s a floral scent without being too floral.  I want more and am ready to go full bottle (or at least the refill to decant myself).

Rose Oud Notes:

Turkish rose, oud, saffron, cardamom

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $395 for 50ml EDP

THE BAD:

I finally made a blind buy that I just can’t stand.  I found a bottle of the discontinued Royal Pavillon by Etro on sale for an incredibly low price.  After reading the reviews from others and looking at the notes, I thought why not give it a try.  Actually the scent itself isn’t that bad, there’s just one note in there that really rubs me the wrong way.  I think it may be the jasmine that sits on top and provides me with some nauseum.  It is interesting though, as floral as this scent is, there is an underlying ingredient of civet and musk that give this floral a little dirt… but not enough dirt for me.  Funny thing is that my husband has taken ownership of this scent and has worn it all weekend.  I’m glad that it won’t go to waste!

Royal Pavillon Notes:

jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, violet and mimose; middle notes are vetyver, sandalwood and oakmoss; base notes are vanille, castoreum and civetta

  • Bone Rating: 2 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral Musk
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: Varied from $40 to $100 for 100ml

THE CONFUSED:

The third aspect of this post as you might note, should not be “confused”, but should be “ugly”.  Sorry, I don’t have any ugly to report.  The confused is that I bought tickets to see Riverdance  because I told my husband that I always wanted to see Riverdance and this is the last US performance that will be in town.  So last night we go to the show at the lovely Wolftrap outdoor amphitheatre on a beautiful night (where I am feeling exceptionally fantastic in my trail of Rose Oud).  One act into the show, my husband turns to me and said,  “You know, we saw this same show about 5 years ago with some friends, here at the same venue.”  It then clicked in my head. Yes, we had.  Am I really getting that old and forgetful??  Tragic.  At least I smelled good and the show was phenomenal!  If you haven’t seen Riverdance, please go, the dancing and music is incredible!

Happy Father’s Day!


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Incense Oud by By Kilian

If you look at my past reviews of By Kilian fragrances they are rather lukewarm.  I approach my reviews solely on what my own likes and preferences are which means that I rate and provide comments on what I like personally.  Given that, I guess I hadn’t sampled the right By Kilian fragrances for my tastes.  I had the opportunity to sample and test some of the other fragrances in the line the other day at Saks Fifth Avenue when I had the opportunity to interview Kilian Hennessy himself as he was promoting his new “Asian Tales” collection.

Well, I fell in love, and fell in love hard with Incense Oud.  Sometimes love is hard to define and I find that it is one of those scents that is hard to describe.  When first applied you are met with what I would describe as a lightly green spicy blend which quickly turns over to a nice and mild oaky smokiness which remains throughout.  Incense Oud is warm and slightly woody.  It is a scent that envelops and wraps itself around you in the most luxurious of ways. Incense Oud is a very personal scent, when you wear it, you feel like it was specifically made for you.  It sits close to the skin and provides you with a layer of comfort.  I have to say that this is easily the most elegant of scents. It’s perfect for the evening and yet it was perfect for me when I went to the grocery store in a sweatshirt and khakis yesterday in the rain!

I’m happy to say that Incense Oud is now part of my permanent collection and I was lucky enough to have Kilian himself sign my bottle.  Besides my love for the scent, the packaging is beyond elegant, both the bottle and the lock box which it resides in.  Yes, I’m in love.

From the By Kilian website:

INCENSE OUD is built on the duality of two primeval scents – incense and oud.

Incense, largely considered a mystic perfume, is layered with oud, rose, cardamom and labdanum,creating a fragrance that is both mysteriously warm and stunningly modern.

  • Bone Rating:   5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent Type:  Oriental – Spicy
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense: $395 for 50ml EDP


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The Scented Hound’s Interview with Kilian Hennessy

Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting and interviewing Kilian Hennessy who was in Washington DC to introduce his new Kilian Asian Tales collection at Sak’s Fifth Avenue in Tyson’s Corner.  Sak’s Fifth Avenue is the exclusive retailer in the Washington DC area where you can find his creations.  When I arrived at the store, there was a great deal of buzz which produced a fun and festive atmosphere.  Guests were provided with a plethora of testing and sampling of the entire line of Kilian Fragrances and I had an opportunity to discuss with the West Coast Sales Manager, Dennis, the Kilian line.  His knowledge and friendly insight was greatly appreciated.  I also had an opportunity to meet Kilian CEO Elisabeth Noel Jones, who like all of the Kilian entourage was warm and engaging.  And thanks to Heather, the Sak’s Fifth Avenue Tyson’s Corner Marketing Director, I was able set up a time to ask Kilian a few questions.   What you first notice when you meet Kilian is that he is gracious, friendly, genuine, funny and very charming.

The Scented Hound:  So what was your inspiration for the creation of the Asian Tales Collection?

Kilian Hennessy:  I wanted to create a  collection of scents that would appeal to the Asian culture.  As such,  I knew that I would have to create  a line of fragrances that would appeal  to the senses as much as to the spirit and as so we created this collection to create that moment  and sense of spirituality.

The Scented Hound:  Do you have plans now or have you ever thought about creating a line exclusively for men?

Kilian Hennessy:  I do have plans to create a line of fragrances exclusively for men, but you’ll have to wait until March 2013 (said with an impish grin).

The Scented Hound:  You have fragrance collections and evening bags as product lines, any other products that we’ll see from you in the future?

Kilian Hennessy:  No, I am going to concentrate on perfumes and bags for now.

The Scented Hound:  Would you say there is a difference in American and European tastes in fragrance?

Kilian Hennessy:  In the US, Europe, Russia and the Middle East my 4 best sellers are the same in every region in the world.  Number one in one region may be number two in another, but the 4 top sellers are the same across the board.

The Scented Hound:  What are those 4 top sellers?

Kilian Hennessy:  Straight to Heaven, Back to Black, Liaisons Dangereuses and Love.

The Scented Hound:  Do you believe some of your new fragrances will take over one of those four spots?

Kilian Hennessy:  We’ll see, I’ll be happy if they do, but I don’t really care because I put out products that I am really proud of.  Some achieve success, some don’t.   I don’t really worry about that.  If I start thinking about this one did well so maybe I should create another one like this, then you become marketing oriented.  I don’t want to become marketing oriented.  I don’t worry about marketing, I don’t do marketing.  I just want to make creations that are as beautiful as I can.

For those of you in the US, note that Kilian will be making his way to Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills in May and Houston in the Fall.  He said he expects to be in Miami, San Francisco and Chicago some time in 2013.

In all, meeting and interviewing Kilian was a wonderful experience and I look forward to his future creations.  And of course,  I couldn’t leave the store empty handed.  More details on my purchase to come!

The first two offerings in the Asian Tales collection, Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy are now on sale at Saks Fifth Avenue as well several other retailers.

Bamboo Harmony focuses on the olfactory impression of a sip of white tea drunk off bamboo, with fresh top notes of notes of bergamot, neroli and Bigarade. The white tea leaves being renowned for their sumptuous taste and delicate refinement are here accented with a hint of spice. Coupled with white tea there are Maté notes, interwoven with fig leaves and oakmoss, making us savour a serene moment of spirituality in a drop of fragrance.

  • Bone Rating:   4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $225 for 50ml EDP

Water Calligraphy is a scent built with simplicity and spirituality, like its Art. A harmonious duo of sparkling Grapefruit zest and Reseda blossom, underlined by dewy Water Lily to awaken the senses. In the heart, the majestic Jasmine Sambac enhances the evanescent magnolia giving an impression of quiet water sliding over Cardamom and Vetiver, like Chinese ink slides over rice paper.

  • Bone Rating:   4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $225 for 50ml EDP

Both Bamboo Harmony and Water Calligraphy samples provided by By Kilian.

Information on Kilian Hennessy’s background and his collection of fragrances can be found on the By Kilian website.