A couple of weeks ago I was going through my perfumes and I found a vintage gem that for some reason had been hidden within a box; a small 15 ml bottle of Y parfum extrait which I believe is from the late 60s or early 70s. Funny thing is that the same day that I found this little prize, Portia dropped a post on Undina’s Looking Glass about the same perfume. Obviously the perfumed gods were trying to tell me to do a review of this vintage chypre.
WHAT I SMELL: Y opens with a warmed honeyed galbanum layered with a dried woody vetiver and a hint of peach. The perfume goes on strong, but then settles into a much quieter mix of slightly soured florals that are rich, deep and wonderfully intoxicating. Y means business, serious business as there’s nothing soft or demure about the perfume. Instead, it wears like a tweed jacket..as if it’s been tinged with just a bit of dew bringing out the smell of the wool. As it continues to develop the oakmoss comes forth front and center surrounded by an ambered hue. In the end, the perfume settles into a lovely amber surrounded by soft florals. Y is perfect for cool fall nights when you want to leave a trail of deliciousness behind you as you get swept up in the cool air. Y doesn’t develop as much as it stakes its claim in being solidly beautiful.
Y Notes from Fragrantica:
- Top: Aldehydes, Green Notes, Galbanum, Honeysuckle, Gardenia, Peach, Mirabelle Plum
- Heart: Hyacinth, Orris Root, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Tuberose, Bulgarian Rose
- Base: Oakmoss, Civet, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Styrax
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Tweed via the 1970s.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE Y: secure, no-nonsense, solitary
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT Y: Undina’s Looking Glass, Bois de Jasmin
BOTTOM LINE: Y is a beautiful perfume, but not one that reaches out to me for a regular wear. Albeit being warm and posh, to me it feels a bit aloof and removed. I find that with most vintage perfumes I prefer them to be comfort scents and Y just doesn’t quite fit that bill. Of course, summer is wrapping up, and I might find that it’s just the right fit come October!
- Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
- Scent: Chypre
- Nose: Michael Hy
- Classification: Unisex
- Expense: Varies on eBay, review based on parfum extrait
WHAT I SMELL: Amelia sweeps quietly in the room as not to make a noticeable announcement of her arrival with a soft, warm muted osmanthus and the quietest neroli. Soon, the softest of florals enter with rose as the lead, along with just a bit of soap, still ever so faintly but with a warm heart. There’s something wonderfully radiating about the perfume, but in the most serene of manner. And Amelia doesn’t develop as much as it blends. It moves with quiet steps that make the notes indistinguishable as they’re so wonderfully fused together in veil of floral beauty. Amelia is a comfort scent that doesn’t feel as if it needs to please anyone, but with it brings a warm character of incredible grace and a gentle demeanor.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Little Women’s Marmee – a beautiful heart.
WHAT I SMELL: PARIS-RIVIERA opens with a soft creamy petitgrain that is quickly met with a sweet, vibrant and juicy neroli. It’s fresh, energetic and a bit bubble-gummish as it feels a bit chewy. But overall it’s incredibly sunny. A sandalwood makes it way in to reveal a bit of pencil shaving along with the lightest of jasmine, which helps it migrate away from the orange a bit. After a short time, a gauze of musk layers over the composition and it feels as if the perfume is contained in a muslin wrap designed to keep the flies off of the fruit that sits within a basket. As the perfume continues to develop, it begins to sweeten which is welcomed as it makes the perfume just that more joyous. And in a bit, a warmed woody base adds just the perfect resting place for this floral dream. PARIS-RIVIERA is a delightfully pretty perfume.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A summer picnic under the orange trees.
The Scented Hound 