The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Ding-Dong, Avon Calling – Happy Mother’s Day

Avon Calling

When I was young enough to be somewhat self-sufficient as a child, my mother decided to become an Avon Lady.  If I recall correctly, she didn’t become an Avon Lady until the 1970s, but I know that prior to this time she made purchases herself and her own Avon Lady used to come visit because I remember them sitting around the kitchen table having coffee and looking at the products.  Being Depression era babies and very Midwestern,  my parents were never big on luxury or glamour.  But I do recall times being very young when my mother and father would go out for an event and there was a great deal of time getting ready with hair, makeup and dressing up. Of course, this meant applying perfume as well.  Like many women, my mother had a mirrored tray on her dresser with these little jewels of perfumes.  I was fascinated by these tiny bottles with the gold top and crystal bottoms that smelled so incredible from a very early age.  I never knew what these little jeweled perfumes were until I stumbled across a listing on eBay for 5 1/8 oz. perfumes for sale…in the tiny jeweled bottles that I remember so well.  And to boot…all were unused except for 1 and all for only $17.  I have no idea which of these my mother had on her dresser, but here’s a short review of each.  I guess it all makes sense now that these perfumes which I recalled would have been Avon.  But for me and I’m sure many, Avon was never really associated with little gem perfumes, but more for their strange and befuddled decorative bottles.  In any case, let’s see if these little jewels live up to my memories…

Avon Mini Perfume

Sonnet:  Sonnet opens with a rich oriental floral spice.  It’s deep, maybe a bit powdery and incredibly dreamy.  The perfume hits the back of my throat and fills it with its intoxication.  As it dries down, the perfume becomes more woody and masculine.  The perfume is blended so wonderfully that I can’t pick out any specific notes and I wasn’t able to find any information on the original notes, but did find that the perfume was created in 1972.  Sonnet is romance and glamour all wrapped up in one perfume.  After some time, the drydown on Sonnet starts to reveal a carnation note and it then becomes very spicy.  I really love the opening, but wish it would remain a more rounded floral rather than a spiced floral.   Sonnet gets a rating of 3 bones.  It would have been higher, but the drydown get a bit too spicy and a bit soapy for my taste.  Wait, it does calm down after a long time and the spice moves to more of a cream.  Maybe I was too harsh at first…let’s give it 3.5 bones.

Miss Dior AdMoonwind:  Moonwind opens with this rather masculine edge…could this be Avon’s answer to Miss Dior?  It’s deep, woody and hay like florals are incredibly pretty…but not made solely for women, this can easily be worn by a man.  Perfume Intelligence states that Moonwind was created in 1971 and is an aldehyde woody floral.  I say it’s Miss Dior…or just call it Miss Avon.  Unfortunately, unlike Miss Dior, Moonwind starts to fall a bit flat in its’ drydown…as if something good was being sucked out of it and instead a slight vanilla was added.  Overall all though, a solid perfume at 3 bones.

Topaze:  Topaze opens soft, powdery, slightly soapy and with a big projection of aldehydes.  Where Sonnet and Moonwind were deep and mysterious, Topaze is floral on a trapeze, meaning it feels like the florals are strung out on a high wire or clothesline.  They’re bright, yet mature and pretty.  There is nothing young about Topaze, but wearing this would make an entrance a noticeable and big one. The florals are cool here and there is something a bit aloof about Topaze and a bit too much soap, but overall, it’s very classic and worthy of 3 bones.

Fragrantica actually had a posting for Topaze:

Topaze by Avon is a Floral Aldehyde fragrance for women. Topaze was launched in 1959. Top notes are aldehydes, coriander, peach, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, benzoin, civet and vetiver.

occur!

A 1960s Occur! ad. How seductive!

Occur!:  Occur! is the dirty girl in the mix and my favorite of the bunch.  There’s a preponderance of coriander that jumps up to greet you as you apply the perfume.  This is a rich, opulent and grand perfume that reminds me of medieval heavy velvet and tapestried frocks.  But as soon as I say that, the perfume begins to lighten and the rich oriental opening starts to break free to reveal a more radiant soul. Occur! is hard to describe except that this ambered beauty has a bit of beast because the civet is very noticeable in the drydown.  To my surprise, I really like Occur!.  4 bones for Occur!

From Basenotes:

Created in 1962, Occur’s top notes include aledehydes, bergamot, cardamom coriander.  Middle notes include muguet, francinsense, vetiver, myrrh, jasmin, patchouli, carnation.  Based notes include amber, leather, honey, moss, musk castoreum, vanilla civet.

Avon Bird of Paradise

Bird of Paradise:  From the sound of this perfume I was expecting a Tahitian treat of a South Seas perfume.  Instead it is an over the top; big, big, big perfume that is all gag-worthy oriental. When I first received this, I tried to scrub the perfume off, but it’s so strong that it wouldn’t abide with my wish.  So for purposes of this post, I have deemed to not put it on again.  Needless to say, Bird of Paradise is 2 bones at best and that’s probably being generous.  Created in 1969, I saw comments online that this was Avon’s answer to Cinnabar but that makes no sense because Cinnabar was created in 1978…but I could see the comparison.

Like many childhood memories, my recollection of these little crystal bottles were a bit exaggerated.  What seems like a jewel then, really is just cut glass and a metal top.  Like many Avon products, they are a facsimile of what they are trying to represent.  But that doesn’t tarnish my memories and my recollection of that mirrored tray with those incredible jewels and the scents themselves are familiar to me and evoke warm memories of my childhood.  For $17 this was a great eBay purchase and I am surprised and rather delighted that these perfumes actually have stood the test of time.  Now, all of these perfumes above are the parfum extrait versions of the fragrance.  I noticed that their were many cologne versions on eBay and I can’t speak to how those compare.  But if you’re looking for something fun at the right price you may want to check out these Avon classics.

Happy Mother’s Day!


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A Goodnight Kiss by Roja Parfums

Roja-A-Goodnight-Kiss

WHAT I SMELL:  A Goodnight Kiss opens with a rush of aldehydes and a light powder which is like a quick wisp of a makeup brush.  The opening is then quickly met with a lightly burnt floral which reminds me a bit of hairspray and of Lanvin Arpege which makes the perfume feel modernly old-fashioned and very familiar.  A few minutes into the wear, the perfume becomes large and rather juicy, which is strange because there is nothing sweet nor fruity about the composition.  However, the perfume is bursting at the seams with incredible florals which seem to dance around a maypole each making their way to the center.  Most prevalent to me is the violet, but as soon as I say that the ylang, ylang comes into focus.  In all, the florals while large, never veer from being contained and they’re very controlled and pretty in slightly masculine way.  Soon enough a green powder comes into play, which takes the perfume back to the wisp of a makeup brush.  In all,  the perfume does feel like the many contents found on a vanity table.  Finally, the masculine and lightly spiced florals then turn towards soft and cloudy when the perfume relaxes into a haze of comfort.  A Goodnight Kiss is a perfume that is meant to leave a wake of a memory behind the wearer and it does so in the most beautiful of fashion.

From Roja Parfums:

Roja Dove owes his vocation to the kiss of a very special muse…“I remember vividly my mother coming to kiss me goodnight when I was  about 6 years old. She was on her way out to a cocktail party and dressed  in a gold lame dress, the light from the hallway illuminated her from behind, transforming her into an ethereal figure. It is an image that will always stay with me and the resonating smell of her face powder and perfume that lingered in the room once she had kissed me goodnight  marked the beginning of my love for perfume” – Roja Dove

A Goodnight Kiss is the celebration of how precious a small exchange of affection can be, and the lasting effect it can have upon us. In a world  where human contact is becoming increasingly digitised, the smallest  acts of physical interaction seem more meaningful than ever before.  The fragrant embodiment of humanity’s most intimate gesture — the soft, evanescent whisper of A Goodnight Kiss.

TOP NOTES: Aldehydes, Bergamot

HEART NOTES:  Rose, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Carnation, May Flower, Violet

BASE NOTES:  Green Accord, Cedarwood, Clove, Spice Notes, Rice Powder

DEEP BASE: Orris, Leather, Musk

Mother kissing her daughter tonightWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Perfectly named; a tender and loving goodnight kiss from mother to child.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE A GOODNIGHT KISS:  memorable, comforting, thoughtful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT A GOODNIGHT KISS:  No other reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  A Goodnight Kiss is a wonderful tribute to Roja Dove’s mother;  and what is even more lovely in this intimate creation is that others, like myself, will immediately recognize the familiar scents revolving around a bygone era when dressing up on a Saturday night for your mother meant wearing her finest topped off by a silken gloves.  To us, our mother’s were glamour embodied and A Goodnight Kiss captures this in the most magical of way.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $1,750 for 100 ml Parfum


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Maria Candida Gentile Syconium

syconium_fla_rendWHAT I SMELL:  Syconium opens with a lightly warm and slightly creamy milk and honeyed fig.  The perfume is so lovely transparent that it invites you to breathe in the airy, but juicy aroma.  Fig can greatly overpower a perfume, but so far, what you get here is this gauze like film of a fig that hovers over this sheer honey accord.  It’s almost like walking outside and getting a whiff of a beautiful scent that wisps past your nose, but you look for the source but can’t find where it’s coming from, it just floats along in the air.  After around 10 minutes, the perfume becomes a bit more waxy which gives it slightly more depth, but it continues to remain light and radiant.  After another 10 minutes, the fragrance begins to project with a warmed sandalwood which beefs up the waxy and lightly sugared fig.  The fig in this perfume feels very natural and not manufactured which makes it that much more inviting.  The fragrance doesn’t morph as much as it builds and in the end your left with the most lush, milky and creamy fig that’s warm, soothing and comforting.

Syconium is the ripening of the fig, the best expression of what nature has to offer in the form of fruit, the richness of the flavour and of the perfume that are brought to us by a tree close to us since the earliest times. The pulp but also the milk, the peel, the scorching sun and the shadow of the great leaves.
Top notes: Honey, Milk
Heart notes: Fig
Base notes:  Java Sandal Wood

Balcony Garden

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The prettiest balcony garden with the wafting scent of the fig coming from below. It’s like your own special private secret garden; so safe and secure.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SYCONIUM: milky, peaceful, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SYCONIUM:  Ye Olde Civet Cat

BOTTOM LINE:  Syconium is one of three perfumes in the Maria Candida Gentile “Flight of the Bumblebee Collection”, along with Kitrea and Leuco.  All of the creations in this collection are wonderful, but this dreamy fig creation is my favorite of the three and perfect for the coming long hot summer months.

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Beeswax
  • Nose:  Maria Candida Gentile
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $185 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum; but also available for $45 for the 15 ml travel size (thank you MCG for offering these smaller sizes with your perfumes!)