The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Orangers en Fleurs by Houbigant

Orangers en FleursWHAT I SMELL: Orangers en Fleurs opens with the most beautiful warm orange blossom and rose.  It’s rich and thick and deep in its construct.  Much too quickly for my taste however, the tuberose comes into play.  Don’t get me wrong, it doesn’t dominate, but it makes its present known and as many of you know, I’m not a big fan of tuberose.  Thankfully, my fears subside as after about five minutes, Orangers en Fleurs begins to brighten.  There is a tinge of wood and spice that seemed to be layered below the floral aspects giving the fragrance some dimension.  I like the fact that it seems that every time I bring my wrist to my nose I smell a different floral; one time jasmine, the other rose… tuberose, etc. all mixed with orange blossom.  Continuing on, I find that there is almost a brown sugar (maybe the nutmeg) note that emerges that gives it a slightly gourmand trait that makes this seem slightly crystalized.   In the end, the surprisingly projectable drydown wraps the floral in a warm and cozy musk.  Absolutely beautiful.

Orangers en Fleurs notes from the Houbigant website:

Head notes: Orange Blossom Absolute, Rose Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute

Heart Notes: Tuberose, Eau de Brouts, Ylang Comores, Nutmeg

Base Notes: Cedar wood, Musk

FLORADORAWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The Floradora Girls

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ORANGERS EN FLEURS: comforting, pretty, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ORANGERS EN FLEURS: Pink Sith, The Women’s Room, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  Orangers en Fleurs was a big surprise which thankfully wasn’t taken over by the tuberose which I cite in my description above, nor did it get sweet or soapy.  This may go on my wish list for a FB.   I just wish Houbigant would have offered this in a smaller than 100ml bottle.  Overall, good job Houbigant!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $180 for 100ml EdP


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Paradis Perdu by Frapin

Paradis PerduWHAT I SMELL:  Paradis Perdu opens with citrus and bergamot that’s not bright, but instead is sour and slightly biting.  The galbanum quickly then becomes evident; its mossy green and very direct and the fragrance remains sharp and biting.  After a bit, the green becomes more hay like and Paradis Perdue becomes a bit dryer and more woody; it’s sheer and light and completely meh.  This is basically where the development of the fragrance ends.

From the Frapin website:

Created with the vitality of Art nouveau, Paradis Perdu is an ode to the vineyards around the property. The perfumer, Amélie Bourgeois, drew her inspiration from the expanses of land, conjuring effervescence with curved lines, somewhere between gushing and encircling.

Paradis Perdu Notes (from Fragrantica):

Top notes are Bergamot, Grapefruit, Citron, Yellow Mandarin, Leaf Blend (Basil, Spinach, Vine, Ravensara), Galbanum, Elemi, Paradisamide, Vetiver, Hay, Virginia Cedarwood, Rosewood, Labdanum, Precious Woods, Mosses, Musks

gty_dog_yawn_ll_121025_wblogWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A yawn.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PARADIS PERDU: boring, sour, dull

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARADIS PERDU:  I couldn’t find any other reviews for this 2013 launch.

BOTTOM LINE:  Being underwhelmed may be an understatement.

  • Bone Rating: 2 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:  Amélie Bourgeois
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $145 for 100ml EdP


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Ambra e Iris by Dr. Vranjes

Ambra-e-IrisWHAT I SMELL:  Hay and patchouli…its earthy and quickly comes off a bit hippieish with the patchouli which is front and center.  Funny, I’m not getting any amber and I’m not getting any Iris, just patchouli!  Continuing on, the patchouli becomes even more earthy and bears an almost mushroom like quality, like that of the dirt that is still on a pack of mushrooms in the grocery store. I would venture to say this works better in the winter.  I’m afraid to go out in the 95 degree humidity and sun today with this on because I believe the patchouli would explode.  Inside in the air conditioning it is kept in line.  After about 45 minutes, the amber starts to creep in a bit.  This is not a warm golden amber, but instead a more pensive and subdued warmth that may be dried out by the inclusion of a bit of myrrh.  It’s only until after a couple of hours that the iris starts to reveal itself in a very light and incandescent way.  Ambra e Iris ends up soft, light and pretty.  I just wish that it didn’t take so long to get there.

Ambra e Iris Notes:

Top notes: Patchouli
Heart: Grey Amber
Base notes: Florentine Iris and Myrrh

church basement 1975WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  My church basement circa 1975…a mixture of oil, polyester, guitars and felt banners.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRA e IRIS:  earthy, grounded, patch-bombish

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRA e IRIS: Il Mondo di Odore, (I couldn’t find any other reviews!)

BOTTOM LINE:  I like where Ambra e Iris ends up but the journey there is a long one.  The first few hours for me were just a bit too earthy for my liking.  Actually, this shouldn’t be named Ambra e Iris, it should be named Ambra e Patchouli!

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Oriental Woody
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense:  $80 for 50ml Extrait